ok i did a search in this forum the f1 subgroup or whatever you call it, im not sure if its the same on the other bikes so i didnt really want to use that as a reference. anyone have a pic or diagram of this thing i have a new one, it came with the bike i have no idea where it goes or if the one in the bike now is aftermarket manual or what the deal is but the noise is getting worse and id like to do something about it. where is it? topside or on the side? ive looked all over the place and cant find anything resembling what i have anywhere on the bike or any adjustment for it on the outside. if someone could help me out with this that would be great im sure you all are tired of hearing about these things im sorry but i am putting the bike down for a while to fix it up alittle so i can feel a little safer on it. thanks in advance for any help you guys could give me.

 

Cct what? What is it? sorry I dont know what that is.

 

But what does it look like?

 

Cam Chain Tensioner. I have never changed one, so I dont know. Let me see what I can come up with.

 

this should help you out:

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/hon...tensioner.html

 

Ok that guy is actually dead center between pistons 2 & 3 on our bikes. You will need to remove the gas tank, airbox, and carbs to get to it(unlees you got really small hands). It is on the backside of the motor on the piston section. (you know head section, piston section, bottom end section) One of the coolant hoses mounts to the right side of it, and the coolant neck goes around it. Just 2 bolts hold it in and you need to replace the gasket around it. Its on pages 8-2, 8-3, 8-4, and 8-19 of the Honda service book. I can e-mail you a copy if you want. However the noise could be about 4-5 other things. When you remove the cct it should move freely and easily however if it does not, you were probably right. If it does your cam chain guide, valves or cam carrier could be loose, missing or out of alignment, or even worst case scenario: catastrophic head failure. Thats what happened to mine 3 years ago. The intake cam's oil journal clogged and the aluminum decided to weld itself together on a fast canyon drive. So BOOM!, driving along all fast and fun, then squeeeeeeeeaaaaal, then pop, then BOOOOOM!. but it kept running squealing the whole way. Got it to a mechanic and had to replace the whole head, intake cam, and cam carriers. Since we have cam chains the motor justed poped the welded parts apart. I've got pictures if you want them too. Uber nightmare, so no bike for like 2 months while parts came in and were wrong, you get the idea. Also he put it together wrong about 5 times before he got it right. It spewed oil the first 2 times, then started to squeal, then puked oil again, than finally, finally he got it right. So I learned a ton about bikes then and have not been to a bike mechanic since(also went and rechecked all his work and had to fix torque specs on the cam, I am a car tech). He at least got the port/polish correct. Anyway you, or anybody needs anything from the owners manual, just ask and I'll e-mail the relevant page, anything to help other hurricane owners.

 

By the way, how much did they charge you to port and polish? Was it worth it? I thinking about getting it done but I'm still trying to weigh the pro's and con's

 

anyone got any pics? is there any way to adjust it without taking the bike apart?

 

It's supposed to be automatic adjustment, but if its broken it wont do crap. The port/polish ran about $500 with everything, new valves, etc. I did not see any cons, really other than price and slight rise in idle to keep it running. The pros however are awesome, there was a dip in power around 7500rpm that would lag the bike slightly and the low-end was really slow to rev to 7500. After the p/p no more dip(except when its really cold but this bike hates super cold weather anyway) and it will rev to redline WAY faster, like almost as fast as you can turn the throttle, unloaded motor to redline from idle is like .7-.8 seconds. The place my mechanic got the p/p done was at Horsepower Farms, known for building funny car and other massive dragsters. Thats the only reason he got it right. I just looked at my reciept and it was on there, so hey at least he knew that much. The best price I've seen is the one from APE race parts, I'd probably send them your cams while you were at it and have them regrind them to the 14000 redline. But hey thats expensive right? Anyway good-luck on the p/p.
And Junior if you have a mechanics stethoscope, use it and find where the rattle is coming from. If its dead center its probably the cct or cam chain guide. If its off to one side or the other its probably either a vavle or the cam carrier being loose. A vavle adjust by a good mechanic will probably run you about $100.00, or you can try it yourself expect to spend quite a long time if it's your first one. Again if you need the pages for this or the cct just pm with your e-mail and I'll send it to ya. Good luck dude.

 

ok i got a new cct in there it took me 5 min to get the old one out without taking anything off i.e. gas tank, seat, carbs, anything else. i dont have plastics so that wasnt an issue. putting the new one in took about an hour the dang bolt holes didnt line up cause there was alot more metal on this one not letting it seat in the same place at the stock one. i ground it down and drilled out the holes a little. after all that and everything lined up it was under 10 min to get it in, tight and adjusted. it took care of the vast majority of the rattling but there is still some there. other common problems sound like valves. next question is what are the clearance specs for that and are they supposed to be adjustable? ive done valve jobs in cars im gonna make an *** out of myself and assume that it is similar. drakito thanks, im dropping you a message after i post this.