Hiya, Not a weird question buddy. I know you can go up to a 2012 dash straight fit but you will need the headlight sub harness from the 2012 model, the limitations are the gear select indicator does not work and speed is very slightly out.

2018 looks a very tech dash and will not work.

I'm pretty sure you can get a 2018 like replica dash with all the required connections by HD if I remember correctly, they are in the States also. I can see if I can find more info for you if required.

 

Thanks for the info! Another question, I’m trying to get the throttle body off but it seems to be stuck to the rubber “hoses” from the actual intake ports to the TB. All of the clamps are loosened as far as possible and it just doesn’t want to budge. Y’all have any ideas on what I can do to remove the TB without possibly breaking it by prying too hard?

 

Sorry for the delayed response bud, work has been real busy.
Nothing but the clamps are holding them in, try a little heat from a heat gun or hair dryer (make sure there is no fuel about near the heat gun) , rock back and forth and they will pop out.

 

I’ve tried the hair dryer when I was trying to get it out yesterday, and it still doesn’t want to budge. I’m just afraid that I’ll either snap off/bend pieces of the TB by prying on it too hard. I think I spent around half an hour to an hour just rocking it back and forth trying to get it loose yesterday.

 

That's very strange. I found some pics that might help you did you use a long reach Phillips/cross head screwdriver to loosen the clamps?

If they have been removed before and over torqued the rubber can fuse to the TB, if you can prise the rubber and spray some WD40 in there it will help, also maybe the hair dryer isn't hot enough and you need a heat gun for a little more heat. please make sure you have some rags covering the TB ports, worse case you may need to buy a set of new rubbers.

ALSO, do not use the fuel injector rail to pull on the throttle bodies...bad idea.

Take your time and don't rust it.

 

Note the rubber tabs in the frame to reach into the clamp screws.

 

Thanks for all the help so far, I had a quick question, I got the heads off already, and I’ve been doing some digging. Do you think that sound could be a spun rod bearing? I’ve noticed a lot of these motors having that issue, but since it’s been shooting oil out the exhaust the piston rings are definitely bad. One more question, do you know if I can pull the cylinders off without removing the pistons from the bottom of the engine?

 

Easiest is to inspect condition of cylinder bores. If they're scratched up, it's LOTS of work and machine-shop charges to install sleeves, bore & hone to fit new pistons.




These USB endoscopes are like $20 off Amazon.com. If damaged, you just need to drop engine and don't bother taking it apart.

For SP engine, you'll need:

- SP engine and all attached sensors
- SP throttle-bodies & stacks
- SP airbox
- SP harness
- SP ECU

 

Thanks for the info! I already have the engine pulled and torn down to the cylinders, and the bore looks to be in good condition, a few scrapes here and there, but nothing deeper than the actual crosshatching.

 

If bores are Ok, then it's not piston-slap noise you're hearing. How do rod-bearings and crank-journals look? Are any of valves not fully closed when cams not pushing on them? Most likely it was cam-chain & adjuster making those noises.