It would almost sound like the low speed jets are plugged. If it runs at high RPM but when not fully warmed up, I would first say the choke (these bikes have enrichners).

How does it run when fully warmed up at idle and you go to full choke. If theenrichners are working the bike should drop in RPM and possibly stall. Try that first as you need not pull anything apart.

Search the forum for the shop manual.

 

I have a manual in PDF format - tell me where you want it sent to, and it'll be on its way.

 

These bikes need a strong battery to start. Your battery may crank the motor and it seem like you have enoughjuice tostart but it really needs to spin the motor.
Try a fresh battery.Your new batterymight be arotten apple. Best way to find out is to jump start it from your carwith jump start cablesbut DONT run your car engine. Car should not be running.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Certainly a lot to try there, I'll let you guys know what I find. Shadow, I would be eternally in your debt if you would send that manual to wayverunr@gmail.com.

Thanks again

 

check yr charging mate and make sure yr lights arnt on when yr starting it or it will never run, faulty regulator me thinks, these bikes need good crank speed to fireup, the engine should crank for at least 15 seconds contiuous without slowing if not you have a battery or charge fault,check yr charging or do a hydrometer test on yr new bat. goodluck

 

I fried my battery 3 years ago, bought another one, then found I had MELTED the regulator/rectifier. I've now replaced it 5 times, and finally found the source of the problem - the stator had picked up a fault as a result of frying the battery, and the resistance was in the region of 4.2 amps - not good when the alternator only pushes 28 amps. The regulator doesn't fail right away, it takes about 8 months or so, but the first sign is the bike won't start after having been ridden for short distances, but will bump start ok. I agree with JB, check your wiring and charging rate - I think you'll find it will only charge around 11.8-12.6 volts which is barely ok when running, but the bike won't start. Should charge between 13.6-15 volts .When the voltage in the battery drops below 10 volts, the bike won't start or run, just dies....happened to me a year ago. Details on checks are in the manual.

 

almost the same as what happened to me shadow, but i replaced alt and reg at same time no probs since and excellent lighting

 

Okay, guys. I'm having less time to work on the bike than I thought I would. Right at this moment, I need the bike for transportation. So my new question is, am I going to be doing further/lasting damage to the bike if I ride it this way? That is to say roll starting it and riding with the choke partially on to keep it from stalling? Shadow, I'm definitely planning on getting it to an electrician of some kind very soon to have those checks made, I don't have the equipment.

 

What would happen if you turn the idle up a notch. You should be ideling around 1,200 RPM. What happens at 1,500 RPM.

The only way I can see doing any damage is if the mixture is to lean and you burn a valve.

 

I'm idling right around 1000 right now, but once in a while it just slows down and dies out. I found that I can ride with the choke out a bit and it idles somewhere in the neighborhood of 1500-1800. It never stalls out when it's this high. Also i've noticed today a weird clicking sound when the battery is fully charged. It used to make the noise once or twice right when I would start it. Sounds like it's coming from behind me on my left. Almost like a clock that's stuck only a lot faster. I noticed it a bit when I tried to jump start it from my car. (just becuase I'm running out of ideas on how to get it to start at all these days) I did manage to roll start it down a hill today, but instead of idling faster at starting choke as it warms up, it died, and then I couldn't roll start it again. It ran for about a minute or two warming up before it died. Is my bike posessed by the spirit of an evil woman?