volts and amps and diodes...oh my
 

using a flow chart ive been able to determine that the stator and r&r are bad. go figure. do i need to replace the stator AND alternator? how do u know if the actual alternator is bad? little confused......thx
93 CBR 1000f

i have the stator cover off, very little oil came out. not sure what im looking for as far as good or bad windings. perhaps there is a test i can make with the multimeter?

as far as i understand it, there is the cover (which i already have removed) then the actual alternator?

what, as far as the alternator itself, should i be looking for?
thx for any input

The service manual gives test procedures and specs for testing both the rectifier and alternator. You'll need a multimeter and the manual.

If you don't have a manual check out the section on manuals at the top of this forum. IIRC the are sites listed that will allow you to download whatever you need.

thx for your reply DRam, but im more interested in the actual physical removal of the generator, or alternator. as i have already said i have the cover off already.
heres what i know for sure....no voltage coming from generator, and testing the diodes on the r&r suggest it is fried as well.
what im confused about is since the alternator, stator, generator...whatever its called for sure, has two components that can be replaced, how can i tell for sure the actual alternator, not the cover, is bad as well?
should the shaft spin freely with your hands or?
i have the honda online shop manual and it does not show how to remove the alternator once the cover is removed...or does it? if so im not sure which section it is hiding in.
ive already ordered a used r&r ($60) and just praying that i will only need to replace the generator cover.
im a little fuzzy where it comes to removing the alternator. can it just be pulled out without affecting the damper or bearing?

has anyone seen a used alternator cover (or new for a decent price)?

should the shaft spin freely with your hands or?

No, it's on a gear which is turned by a chain around the crankshaft.

The stator/alternator cover is fairly easy to remove. There are 3 bolts (on my 90 model)
DO NOT STICK A SCREWDRIVER IN ONE SIDE AND ATTEMPT TO LEVER IT OFF !!
Tap it with a soft mallet on the sides - there\s a bearing on the end of the shaft which may stick, so have some patience getting it off.
Here's a pic of the spare one I keep (I've had problems before)

And when you put the replacement in, remember
1 the gasket
2 DON'T TRY TO PULL IT UP TIGHT BY TURNING THE BOLTS - YOU'LL BREAK THE CASING.GIVE IT A WHACK WITH A SOFT MALLET (PIECE OF WOOD AND A NORMAL HAMMER WILL WORK TOO) in the middle until it seats all the way on.

One more thing - MARK THE POSITION WHEN YOU TAKE IT OFF - if you don't you'll have it on and off at least 3 times before you get it right (ask me how I know this) The bolts won't line up - I learned at least 3 more cusswords doing it :)
Hope it helps - :)

thx shadow. i had the cover off already and didnt notate the position due to the fact that the wires are there as reference.
perhaps i am confused though.....(no....not perhaps....definately) allow me to explain my sudden confusion so i can put this to bed.
i have the cover off..no problem. only reason i took it off is because it failed ac tests...i got like 2v at 5KRPM.
Now...behind the cover is the?....generator?...alternator?...the book just says alternator casing...so if im not explaining myself with the proper terminology i apologize.
I have already taken off the r&r, for it failed a simple diode test.
In closing...lol....i am replacing both the r&r and generator cover. My question is.....is there anything else about the alternator that is still inside the bike, secured with 2 bolts, that needs to be tested?
I have a r&r coming. I am looking for a used alternator cover.

The cover has all the electrics in it - the probe just spins in the centre between the electrical coils to make the current that runs the bike.
So replace the cover as shown in my post, replace the R/R and you should be good to go.
Consider buying an Electrex R/R as they are much better and cheaper than the Honda part. Part no is, I think RR23

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/rr23-...ier-598-0.html

thx for the link and the info. currently looking for a used cover...never thought finding just one part would be so difficult.
i appreciate the feedback. thx again shadow

i fail to believe that i am optionless when it comes to replacing the stator cover.....so i have a few questions for the more tech savvy individuals within this forum.
i have seen just the stator for sale...without the cover, not necessarily for my year of cbr and was wondering if that is a huge deal to install. Say...perhaps i found a stator for my year or its equivalent....recommended?

i have also read that other 93 cbr owners have gone from a 28amp to a 40 amp alternator but had to retrofit the wiring harness.

Also...i have found links previously within this forum that will show what other models and their year are cross compatible with my 93 but fail to be able to find that particular link. A little help?
thx all

Also....although perhaps not entirely related to this thread...out of the blue today, while i just happened to be taking out the garbage, a younger gentleman had stopped at my house bc his father had noticed my bike under tarp for some time, and this guy was just wondering if i was looking to sell it. I know...weird...but after talking to him for a few i explained how this is all new to me and although my intentions were to invest, repair, and sell later i asked him what his ballpark figure would be. Didnt really get a solid answer btw.
The way i figure it...i bought it for $400. I have since invested the cost of a used r&r and new battery, carb cleaner, starter fluid, plugs....etc etc...so minimal cost thus far, not to mention countless hours working on, reading and learning the how to's and functions.
The fairings are a thing of the past, missing several, needs new rubber...still waiting patiently for a stator cover..........i guess at this point i dont see me selling this bike for a profit period, and although not opposed to it being a keeper im curious what the a fair market value would be in your opinion?

$400, Don't think I would be selling it. I'd be fixing it because you can't get much for $400 to replace it!!!! I paid $850 for an 87 not going, no side fairings, broken top fairing, needed discs, + heaps more and no reg or wof and haven't regretted buying it at all. Great bikes!!!!

1 I've never seen anyone go to a 40 Amp alternator on this forum, for the 1000F.
2 The alternator cover for your bike - any of the 89-96 or later 1000F will fit.
the 87 and 88 {the H and J models) will not fit.

You need to look further than just the USA - the e-Bay site in Germany had one recently, and maybe you could check under spares in the UK site. Otherwise, the only other option is Discount Honda Kawasaki Polaris Suzuki Yamaha Parts for Motorcycles ATVS Scooters Utility Vehicles at around $220.

ok. out of patience and weather is turning. in your humble opinion is it advisable to simply just replace the stator? like reuse the cover but replace the stator coil? i noticed that there is a portion of the wiring secured by a hardened epoxy? or something to that nature before exiting the cover.
yes i could just purchase a new stator cover and have everything i need....but money talks and i can find just the coil for around $100.00 less.
not finding any 'how to's' on the subject.

I'd replace the complete stator cover and windings, as they aren't designed to be removed. It HAS been done, by one of our members, a guy called KASKA ( KASPAR KALLIP) - HE'S IN ESTONIA ON THE BORDER OF RUSSIA AND FITTED HIS GOOD ELECTRICS INTO A COVER WHICH i SENT HIM.
SEND HIM A PM OR AN E-MAIL - SURE HE'LL HELP YOU.
Best of luck. :)

ok. thanks again shadow

just a quick hello and thx to all. i just wanted to send an update to my past issues regarding r&r and stator and battery....
I tested r&r, stator with an altimeter. Found both to be bad. Purchased used r&r immediately, had installed new battery already and was waiting and watching for a good price for a used stator cover.
Decided that the bike was better off going to another good home, put an ad in the paper, and immediately started getting calls. I let it not be a secret that the bike would not hold a charge, but only the brave and willing could take her out for a spin.
So...i finally installed the used r&r, put battery and alternator back in, and just out of curiosity tested the charge.....well ill be damned.......it was producing a charge like never before. It seems my test of the stator was done incorrectly. What a pile of *hit! This whole time....all this nice freakin weather we have had that i could have been riding.....all because i saw no reason to install the used r&r if the stator was bad. Good god.
Needless to say....the charging issue has been resolved. Now.....lets ride...

:)
Another 1000F stays on the road.
Good thing.
If you have any further trouble with your R/R I'd recheck your stator - mine worked for about 6 months putting about 70% charge into the battery with a new R/R. Eventually bunt out the R/R again.
I had burnt coil windings in the stator. Changed it for an e-Bay special for $50 and all is well.
If I were you. I'd keep an eye out for a cheap spare stator cover on e-Bay.
Well worth having as a spare.

I tested r&r, stator with an altimeter
ummmmmm - at what altitude ? :) :) or do you mean an ampmeter or voltmeter.
Glad she'll all well again and I hope you keep her - she's worth it.

oh ha. ha.

ok u got me there. perhaps i shouldnt have been testing my bike in the air...what?...i thought everyone was doing it lol.
What i meant and what i typed.....2 totally different things.
multimeter.......multimeter....not altimeter.
nice catch shadow........no one likes a showoff lol

When u state burnt coil windings...can u see it if u inspect it? I mean does it look like its burnt? Honestly, my windings looked pretty consistant as far as color....but it was the first time i had ever seen one so.......anyway...thats why im asking.

You can't see the windings are burned which is why you need someone with a megger tester (who knows what he's doing) :) to test it properly.The normal voltmeter won't do it properly. It's usually on the inner windings.


What i meant and what i typed.....2 totally different things. I do it too :)
The important thing is that you're back on the road. My bike sat for 4 weeks......
not possible to buy one locally here in darkest africa :).
Give me a call if you have any more trouble.

Make sure your connections are tight on the R/R - loose ones can cause problems too. :)