CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Upgrade Paths for the CBR1000f

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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 10:07 PM
  #11  
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Naga Please elaborate on the post I moved to this thread.

And guys if you see something in the list that doesn't look right speak up everything is up for debate here and should be a consensus of the forum.

Thx again for the input guys. Lets keep them coming.

What about stuff like suspension? When I repair my forks should I upgrade to mk2 or mk3 or aftermarket or stick with OEM?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Hueristic
Moved to this thread:


OK so this is common on all models? So my next question is what heads will fit what models and what would be the optimum combination? If I need to replace my Mk1 should I use a Mk2 or Mk3?

Mk1 - Use Mk1
Mk 2-3 - Use Mk 2-3



With the Coil stick upgrade would that free up enough room for the above question's answer to change?
Don't know - never done it. But remember there is difference in the Tank, the water pipe feeds, the thermostat assembly, the routing of the throttle cables ..... to consider also.


Yeah I knew I was dropping my neck in a noose with this one but seeing all your great DIY I can't say no.

I have other questions as well so I might as well put them here.

I read the carburetors will not fit do to the brackets not lining up but will the newer carbs just bolt up to the older brackets and would that be a worthwhile upgrade?

Don't know - never done it.

Or should we look to another carb to upgrade to if we need replacement carbs? I don't even know what year Fuel injection started in bikes. :icon-doh:

It seems like every system has changed over these iterations. brakes,body... I think this list is going to get very long.
...
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hueristic
What about stuff like suspension? When I repair my forks should I upgrade to mk2 or mk3 or aftermarket or stick with OEM?
Most springs and dampers will be shagged after about 30-40,000 miles so replacement will depend on location.

You could go OEM from e-bay, but It's pot-luck.

I used a Hagon rear damper and Hagon progressive front springs when I did my suspension with standard weight fork oil.

Personal taste but some people go with a heavier fork oil up front.

A cheap fix for the front forks is to replace the factory spacer with something larger to stiffen up the front springs. Even adding extra washers could help.

No cheap fix for the rear though, if you want to get rid of the wallowy feel out of the corners the rear will cost £300/$450
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hawkwind
Most springs and dampers will be shagged after about 30-40,000 miles so replacement will depend on location.

You could go OEM from e-bay, but It's pot-luck.

I used a Hagon rear damper and Hagon progressive front springs when I did my suspension with standard weight fork oil.

Personal taste but some people go with a heavier fork oil up front.

A cheap fix for the front forks is to replace the factory spacer with something larger to stiffen up the front springs. Even adding extra washers could help.

No cheap fix for the rear though, if you want to get rid of the wallowy feel out of the corners the rear will cost £300/$450
So For all versions It's recommended to go after market and Is it a consensus on the board that Hagans are a good choice or is that personal preference (Only so I know what to post in OP).
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Hueristic
So For all versions It's recommended to go after market and Is it a consensus on the board that Hagans are a good choice or is that personal preference (Only so I know what to post in OP).
Hagon is what is available here in the UK and are a well respected suspension builder, in the US you may have a better /cheaper option, but unless you're lucky enough to find a low mileage used OEM shock cheap, after market is the best option.
Most e-bay stuff is f*cked and will need replacing after a couple thousand miles anyway.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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I have a slightly different view of the front forks. Adding longer spacers to the stock spring does not make them stiffer (fixed spring rate) it only eliminates the preload making them feel stiffer over small bumps. I would also caution away from a progressive spring as our forks do not have enough travel to properly utilize the progression. I ordered my springs from here SonicSprings.com They have a calculator to help you figure out the proper rate for what you do.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hawkwind
Hagon is what is available here in the UK and are a well respected suspension builder, in the US you may have a better /cheaper option, but unless you're lucky enough to find a low mileage used OEM shock cheap, after market is the best option.
Most e-bay stuff is f*cked and will need replacing after a couple thousand miles anyway.
OK, so the issue with stock is the unavailability therefore in essence forcing after market?

Originally Posted by pmcg
I have a slightly different view of the front forks. Adding longer spacers to the stock spring does not make them stiffer (fixed spring rate) it only eliminates the preload making them feel stiffer over small bumps. I would also caution away from a progressive spring as our forks do not have enough travel to properly utilize the progression. I ordered my springs from here SonicSprings.com They have a calculator to help you figure out the proper rate for what you do.
OK, so I'm a little confused PMCG, You state that you have new springs but use a spacer with them? But you do agree to go aftermarket, correct?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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Yea the springs are from sonic springs. All springs need spacers for preload. I would just not recommend adding a longer spacer to stock springs. There is a ton of info on sonics website on the right spacer length choosing a spring rate ... They also had great customer service as I had a few questions. I was very happy with them.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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Most of the list I had are really a matter of personal preference for brand, type etc.
and not really looking to write a book on it. We all have preferences for rubber
seats grips bars - you name it - I just listed things I felt I needed changing for my
own selfish reasons. Plus the different generations of bikes kinda require diff
tweaks - for instance where I have the 3 gens - I don't feel the need to put the
wider rims and rear tire on the 87 as I like the way it rides as a contrast to the other
two ( it turns and is much more nimble doing so) but if it was my sole bike - ppphhfft
I'd probably put wider rims on it with Michelins as opposed to stock with
Conti Motions so really imo there's no template - just a lots of choices

BTW I went with Slik Designs extendable mirrors - I had to "make fit" the gen2 gen3
Gen 1 could be done but would be even more work
 

Last edited by Sprock; Sep 12, 2012 at 09:09 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Sprock can you post more info on the different rim widths? Pros/cons. Why would you run them if it was your only bike?
 
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