CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Stator or VR

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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 03:13 AM
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Default Stator or VR

Alright my story again. Just posting again to see if anyone here actually knows electronics pretty well.
My two wires off of my VR (B+/red-white & B-/green) were so hot they were burning the insulation. So I checked the wire (black) that signals the amount of battery voltage back to the VR to tell if it needs to charge more or not. It was 1 volt lower than the actual battery voltage. So I ran a wire straight to the battery to that black wire so it got an accurate battery voltage reading. And the red/white and green wires still overheated.
My 3 stator wires also still get pretty warm, although not as hot as the VR...
So I ordered a used VR off of a bikeo n ebay, and it did the exact same thing...

So now I am at this bridge where I have 3 possibilities.
My stator ($300~)
My voltage regulator/rectifier ($100~)
My wiring is shorted somewhere? (pft just some wire...)

Has anyone ever had this problem before, and if so, what did you do to fix it?
I read somewhere else, that this is the sign of a bad VR, as it is constantly drawing full current from the stator. But then again...wtf. I got sent another VR online that failed in the exact same way? Crazy....but possible.

What does anyone else think? It's quite a bit of money on top of the other things I'm doing to the bike before I can ride it again. ALready getting new tires, new chain/sproket, rear rotor, clutch disks/springs, new clutch/brake handles, new windscreen, and now this. Costly...but I don't want to make the wrong choice.
 

Last edited by RyanEricW; Jul 13, 2009 at 03:30 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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Used electrical equipment is always suspect. And a failed VR (actually an RR - regulator/rectifier) can take out the stator. You need to test the RR. A Haynes or Clymer manual for your bike should have the information you need to do the job. You'll need a multi-meter for the job also. Or you could take it to your Honda dealer to have it checked.

Sometimes it's less expensive to buy new parts in the long run.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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I've had your exact problem, and found that it was the stator cover with the field coils which was wonky and which cooked the R/R as a result. If you need the test procedure for an R/R I'll photograph mine from the manual.......You will need a megger tester to test your Stator - don't make the mistake of using a voltmeter..................

I bought a stator cover on e-Bay secondhand and it has been great. Much cheaper at around $50
 
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadow
I've had your exact problem, and found that it was the stator cover with the field coils which was wonky and which cooked the R/R as a result. If you need the test procedure for an R/R I'll photograph mine from the manual.......You will need a megger tester to test your Stator - don't make the mistake of using a voltmeter..................

I bought a stator cover on e-Bay secondhand and it has been great. Much cheaper at around $50
You say "stator cover", you are talking about the field coil & the charging lines (3 lines) as an assembly correct?
Like this (but this is for a 600)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-88...A1%7C72%3A1171

I keep thinking you are talking about the metal cover that goes around the stator. :S

So I may have to replace my VR again as well as the stator huh? Interesting..
If you could, please upload the testing procedures for the R/R, because the manual I have states that there is no definite way to test the 87-88 VR's. :S which is kinda weird.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 01:47 PM
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Check your g.mail e-mail

You say "stator cover", you are talking about the field coil & the charging lines (3 lines) as an assembly correct?
Like this (but this is for a 600)


On the 1000F all the electrics you need are encapsulated in the Stator cover, except the Reg/rec. The principle is the same but the manner of producing current is a bit different.You have to buy the whole stator cover as a unit..............I've tried to have the coils rewound - not successful
 

Last edited by Shadow; Jul 13, 2009 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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According the my Haynes manual the R/R on H and J models is accomplished by taking the bike to a dealer and having a known good R/R installed temporarily.

Shadow: 'megger?" Here we go with another terminology difference. Is that what we call an ohm meter this side of the pond?

Incidentally my son's VFR went through this scenario a few weeks ago. We never found out if the stator failed and took out the R/R or vice versa, but both were cooked and had to be replaced.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 01:01 AM
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According the my Haynes manual the R/R on H and J models is accomplished by taking the bike to a dealer and having a known good R/R installed temporarily.

If the coils in the Stator are burnt, fitting a new R/R won't tell you anything - it'll just take a while to burn out the R/R again due to current problems.
Believe me I've been there. I did that 3 times, and cooked 3 reg/recs.

A megger is an American term I believe. I didn't use one, I don't know how.
Look up CBRNevada - he mentions a megger, perhaps look up posts as I mentioned before......

I replaced my stator cover and hoped for the best, having had it tested (resistences were out of spec)It worked.
 

Last edited by Shadow; Jul 14, 2009 at 01:05 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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A megger is an American term I believe. I didn't use one, I don't know how.
Look up CBRNevada - he mentions a megger, perhaps look up posts as I mentioned before......
A "megger" is simply a megaohm meter. It works like an ohm meter on steroids. I have one sitting next to me as we speak. I use it for testing 3phase motors, etc.
It shoots about 1000V through wiring/windings, etc, and will let you know if you have a short to ground or across phases where a regular ohm meter wouldn't do the job. It's also known as an "Electronic Insulation Tester". It'll zap yer butt good.. lol..
 

Last edited by kilgoretrout; Jul 14, 2009 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by kilgoretrout
A "megger" is simply a megaohm meter. It works like an ohm meter on steroids. I have one sitting next to me as we speak. I use it for testing 3phase motors, etc.
It shoots about 1000V through wiring/windings, etc, and will let you know if you have a short to ground or across phases where a regular ohm meter wouldn't do the job. It's also known as an "Electronic Insulation Tester". It'll zap yer butt good.. lol..

Thanks for the explanation.


If the coils in the Stator are burnt, fitting a new R/R won't tell you anything - it'll just take a while to burn out the R/R again due to current problems.
Believe me I've been there. I did that 3 times, and cooked 3 reg/recs.


Ahhh , yes. My bad. I mentioned that a bad R/R could take out the stator, but neglected to suggest testing it before trying a new R/R. Sorry.
 
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