Yes, I even went so far as to send my starter out to a rebuild shop to have it looked at - They said it tested fine.

Good luck with the starter clutch, keep me posted, I am going to Japan for a time, but hope to do mine when I come back. Any input would be appreciated.

 

Some pictures too would be super-dooper )

 

I keep you updated, right now i am a little busy to fix the alternator cover and some work business, but probably this weekend i get so far to take out the starter clutch and yes i am still convinced that i can do it without taking the engine out from frame.

 

Well i have done it now. The starter clutch is fixed. For now at least And it cost few beers
Pictures are seen in here http://www.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/

Investigating the problem: To invetigate the problem i removed the camshaft cover and ran starter. On the pressure part the engine stalled, so there was seen that somewhere is slippy part.


Taking it out:

You don't need to take your engine apart nor does you need to take it out from frame. You just need to take off fuel tank, airbox and carbs. Then you see a little hatch ( seen on picture 6244 ) you open it and there is a little nut ( pic 6250) - it was 14mm i think
At same time you have removed alternator cover and you should see something like is seen on pic 6246. Then you remove tree bolts holding the alternator rotor coverand start removing the nut by same time holding the rotor for rotating ( a engine can be used to help holding , just put on a gear )when the nut is off you can start pulling off the rotor - DO NOT use much force! It comes out pretty easily and soon you should be see something like this - 6263. The starter clutch is seen on 6255 - but mine was ok.( The inside of starter clutch 6274, 6276 ) - The problem was in the damper - 6287, 6288. To get the damper out you need to take of the chain, be careful not to drop it in coz if you do you might still have to disasamble your engine

Finding the problem:

Well next i opened the damper and saw something like 6300 the problem was that some of the metal plates where wore out, So thats where the beers come along, as CBR 1000F is pretty common bike in my friendhood ( 5 of them) one had the same problem few years ago and he changed the damper but hold on the old one - which i took apart also and measuring plates and cleaning them i made one working one out of two. But on pic 6306 one can see wearing marks, and those where on both dampers so i could not awoid them.
And some wery bad plates 6315.

After that just assambly doing everything in backwards - And again Use torque wrench and DO NOT over power the nuts and bolts - because THEY WILL broke - belive me i know!



Anyway the bike starts like new now, but the oil is not staying in cos the alternator cover is still not correctly fixed - the cold weld did not work so my crusade is continuing

 

Thanks Kaska for an excellent report !!
This is I'm sure good news to many of the members with starter clutch problems.
It also showed me that I can remove my complete stator if I need to, without a complete engine-out stripdown- very good to know.
I have attached a couple of pictures of the stator cover that we spoke about, so if you want it. please let me know.....send me a PM with your address........it suffered no damage, and is good to go. (Marks are rubber glue where the wires go.)


[IMG]local://upfiles/22903/10363C06B77A41AFA42499B98E0C71E2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/22903/3BD6C9F851E44DA7BA754EB934AD2C14.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/22903/200F4356B9D642BE949D98B3E4F5037B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Interesting stuff Kaska, andperfect timing!!
Ive just rebuilt my engine for this very purpose; I examined the damper and clutch.. looked okay, but on reassembling the bike, the dreaded problem has come back to haunt me.. ****!! anyway, your post is very timely; Im sure that it must be my damper spinning under starting load. Question is... hasn't the alternator chain got an automatic tensioner on it?
This being the case, on removing the starter clutch etc, isn't that chain going to tension itself up and make reassembly impossible??? I was thinking of dropping the sump to improve access, but would rather not if you have a way around this!
dry roads
druncle

 

Yes It has a self timing tensioner, but unless mine was broken it woun't do you any harm.
I removed the chain using just knife and reassambled it again using only a knife and my ten fingers of course

If you have problem starting the engine - the starter doing this wynie sound then probably it is the damper. You can also chek it by removing the cylinder head cover and run the starter - if the engine is not turning correctly then i am pretty sure that the damper is the problem.

Or you can just took out the damper and open it to see if the plates have wearing marks and also you can measure the friction plates ( my plates was 1,77 -1,80 and i reassambled only the thickest ones).
There are i think 7 friction plates and 6 metal + one thick metal plate.
If you dont want to buy a new one and you have no place to get "new" one also, cou can also just clean the plates correctly and mix they positions - so they get new plate do scrach with.
And most important when you are assembling the damper dont forget to COVER ALL THE PLATES WITH ENGINE OIL! Just a slightly with finger, its enough

And doing so you probably gain some improvement - its not new after that but probably will postpone buying new damper.

 

As an addition......one problem with replacing the damper/ starter clutch is that tension on the alternator chain will inevitably be reduced as the alt shaft is withdrawn. CBR1000f's have a spring loaded tensioner on this chain, and guess what....if it is working properly, youll find that when reassembling, the chain is now too tight to get the shaft back in place properly. ( there is a lot of useful help on this forum, and also a lot of advice which can be time wasting and expensive if followed, I imagine because the authors dont know what theyre talking about...BEWARE!!- ive been there; especially on this very topic!)sooo..
You can do this job with engine in frame-
take off carbs/ airbox/ starter, undo alternator nut, remove alternator shaft.
Hook piece of wire round chain to stop it dropping....Dont bother lieing the bike down (!!!???)
Theres a tang off the alt chain tensioner in the way; bend it down out the way.
The damper should now eventually come out... this is fiddly! have patience!
Have cup of tea and ***.
The tensioner will (should have) automatically have tensioned the chain... If you look at it down the alternator aperture, youll see a spring loaded plunger.. the ratchet on this needs to be disengaged... have second ***.
I got a 6" length of bicycle spoke, and found that if bent to the correct shape, it could enter the engine via the starter motor hole, and go down to where the teeth on the ratchet are. next to these teeth, you can push the spoke thro a hole, at the same time disengaging the ratchet. At this point leave the spoke in situ.
Damper replaced , chain put over it, tang bent back, safety wire round chain removed. Alt shaft & alternator replaced.
Now the magic bit!! the bicycle spoke can be withdrawn thro the starter hole, allowing the tensioner to do its job again. Reassemble everything else.
Have crate of Newky Brown.
This is the result of a very long day yesterday, when I tried to do the job as advised, and found that there was no way to do it, if the tensioner was working!!! Maybe some cbr1000s dont have this tensioner, but I have my doubts!
Its not a difficult job but it is a bit fiddly. Take your time, dont start hitting things with hammers, and itll be ok.
If anyone has any pics of the tensioner; I'd have found them very useful, and so would anyone else doing the job.
Have Fun, John.

 

The link to your pictures is unfortunately no longer up. You gave a clear description but the pictures would really help. Do you still have them and can you share them again?
Or does someone else have pictures perhaps? THanks in advance!