Starter damper
#11
I need help getting my alternator back in
So I joined here just to ask this question. Can someone explain in more detail where the release is located? I'v been trying to get the alternator back in for a few weeks but theres no slack. I don't have a clue where I need to put the spoke to release some tension. Any pictures would be very cool. thanks
and i'll write a proper introduction in the very near future.
and i'll write a proper introduction in the very near future.
#12
So I joined here just to ask this question. Can someone explain in more detail where the release is located? I'v been trying to get the alternator back in for a few weeks but theres no slack. I don't have a clue where I need to put the spoke to release some tension. Any pictures would be very cool. thanks
and i'll write a proper introduction in the very near future.
and i'll write a proper introduction in the very near future.
Welcome to the forum Dezmo,
There is a how to for the alternator clutch replacement that I did that is in the How To section that briefly explains it. However, in my excitement of actually getting it to work on the second night of fiddling I failed to take any pictures.
Here's the best way of explaining (well mine anyway). Looking into the alternator aperture you have the (from the back) bearing, then the alternator damper with the alternator chain over in and angling down to the left (toward the crank). The lower section of that chain has the ward pressure from the tensioner. You can actually see the tensioner with a torch and peering down to the left.
On the side of the tensioner slider, closest to the left hand side of the bike are the teeth for the pawl to engage. The pawl pressure is on releasing the teeth thus lowering the slider, releasing the pressure on the chain. I found that (from memory) 2.4 mm brass rod worked best for the next bit. The pawl swivels so that by pressing on the back of it, it releases the slider. There isn't a 'hole' as mentioned, it is the gap between the back of the pawl and the tensioner body.
If you go in from the front to start with, bend the rod with a 1 inch bend so that you can press down on it at right angles from bottom of the chain.
The gap behind the pawl, you will be pressing the rod into is 1/4 inch or so out from the slider towards the LHS of the bike. When you press down, the rod lifts the pawl, releases the tensioner slider, and if left there (in the interim) allows hassle free refitting of the alternator shaft.
When you can do it from the front, then bend your wire in such a way it comes in from the starter hole, over/foward the alternator damper/chain and into the pawl gap. Leave it there while everything is refitted then Violá remove it.
Yep, 1000 words, think I'll take a bloody picture next time
Cheers, SB
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