I'm in the process of replacing the hoses my 96 Ft, bu I want to retain the linked braking if possible. Obviously the Front Brake M/Cyl bit is easy (2 new lines and a double banjo bolt should do it) . My problem is replicating the secondary master cylinder and control valve hoses.

Anyone done it who could help with this ?

 

Go to the "how to" section, or contact Dean0 - he's a whiz !

 

SS up front would be a plus for breaking. Unless you de-link, there would be little gain for the price of going to SS in the rear. I doubt that you would feel any difference. There is way to much plumbing and fluid to push around to make any difference. I de-linked and know this. Even after de-linking and getting better stopping (I control how much break to each wheel now), these bike lack in breaking power. You can't squeeze water from a rock, it's just not there.

But, yes there is a small gain with SS up front.

Hey! doesn't Sprock have one of each now, the older non-LBS and the newer LBS bike? I wounder how he likes the LBS. He can jump from one to the other and compare stopping power.

 

I agree with TimBucTwo - the front pair are the ones to do.

The rear end gets a little too twitchy with braided lines.

IF you decide to do the lot - get yourself a vacuum bleed kit - worth it's weight in gold for an empty system.

My own personal oppinion would be to braid the front pair.

Swap to DOT5.1 fluid

Put ebc HH pads up front.

I did this and found that once the back wheel was in the air - any more brakes was redundant - haha

 

Linked is not my favorite ........BY Far, it's a real pain in the *** coming in
hot to a corner and shooting it .

If I was going to keep this 93 with linked brakes .... I'd unlink them just
like you have Tim ........ in a heart beat

They're fine if all you do is cruising and highway stuff

My 90 ........ love it ....... can just leave the rear out of the equation altogether
and push the front wheel in a hot turn hard as I need when I need without having
the rear act out !

 

I can help with that when the time comes. There was also a funny feeling when you released the breaks at an intersection. The bike gets jammed up like an accordion with both breaks on during heavy breaking and then relaxes when you release the breaks (both are on until you take the pressure off the secondary master cylinder).

 

Well I'm hoping to take the 93 up to altitude Thursday ( Mt Washington) , it'll be interesting farting about with the linked brakes on the trip.

NE1000F (Matt) got me all envious with his pic from the top

Then there's Gaz's trip all over Europe ........ that got me all itchy for a day trip

 

but I can't find anything on the how to threads ? I didn't want to de-link because I thought I would need a different Front brake M/cyl but it may be an option. The standard hoses are getting a bit elderly and I'm concerned that failure may occur. They are also very expensive !!!

 

You need a three line kit for a 90 to 92 CBR1000F for de-linking.

There are a few thoughts on making the system work properly.

I found the best option was to use all three pistons in the front calipers and a CB1300 master cylinder to correct the piston to master cylinder ratio.

All you need to do then is make a small bracket to replace the slave cylinder on the left fork leg.

At the back only link the outer two pistons to the master cylinder - and remove the middle piston from the caliper. ( using all three pistons in the rear caliper will make the rear real twitchy )

 

Thanks Deano, I'll let you know how it goes ... may be even a photo illustrated how to depending on my enthusiasm.

I owe you a pint or two