anyone ever have any problems with regulator will it still start if bad? bike will start when cold,but a little sluggish on start meaning it will crank 5 seconds and then seem to slow down. after bike get to temp and fan kicks on if you turn it off it seems battery is dead, but if you let it cool for about 20-30min. it will start. i swapped starters for a used one and it does same thing and battery is new, ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Vapor lock?? Just a guess, but I had a truck that used to do the same exact thing.

 

I had the same problem and it ended up being the starter Clutch which means splitting the cases.

But check the resistance of the wire that geoes from the batter to the starter and from the battery to ground.

 

reg/rec's are known weak points on the thou, and most hondas come to think, i went through 4 units in a year on an old model. If the reg/rec goes it can cause all the problems you've described, i remember never being able to start the bike up after a run and the bike would cut out when you'd trottle off coming up to a set of lights. I'd replace the reg/rec as its the cheapest option and see if the probs disappear.
Mark.

 

mine has the same trouble and it's got a new batt , new starter clucth
and i can't get it to stop i just deal with it

 

Had to change the loom on my last bike to stop blowing the reg/rec as the previous owner had done a bad diy job installing an alarm and it was shorting everywhere. Also heard that blowing a reg/rec can take out the alternator/generator so you'll have to replace this aswell. Check that you have all three phases from the jenny.

 

G'day From Aussie land and am very happy to be a member of this forum.

Silverbird, now about rectifyier/regulator problems. I have recently had this pestering problem resolved in my '92 CBR1000F, 85Ks. The problem of difficults starts resulted in several symtoms 1) causing the battery to drain and eventually fail (3 in 6 Month period) 2) recifier/regulator blowing sending spikes of current to the battery (2nd recifyier in 9 months). 3) Starter motor finally failed and had to get a replacement due to the load (like you made no difference to the starting process). This is after going through all the suggested testing proceedures in the manual and checking all electrical connections and wires.

Battery, rectifyier/regulator problem solved when installing a new OEM one and found that it got very hot very quickly but the frame around it seemed to still be cool. So, I removed it and with the scraping away of the paint on the underside of the R/R and the frame it bolts to, as it seems to use the frame to maintain heat dissipation and paint is not a good conductor of heat. No fins / heat sink on the R/R itself. You can get aftermarket R/Rs 'with a heatsink on it and fit a small 12V computer fan to that, but I went OEM. The air vents don't provide good cooling at low speeds. Once cleaned of paint I used CPU Thermal paste between the 2 surfaces and bolted the unit back on including earth link. Walla, heat dissipation problem fixed. Frame around the R/R was heating up nicely.

Now the sluggish starter problem which placed undo strain on the rest of the electrical system. I pulled the carbs and directly connected the starter motor to the battery and the symptoms still existed. Removed the starter motor and decide to open it to see how the bushes looked. Ignorance and frustration will drive a person to do the most stupid of acts as was in this case and the as I removed the coil from its housing bits flew every were. Took me a while to figure out how to get it all back together without left over parts. I digress, the Starter motor fits into a cog that engages the starter clutch and if you look down the hole the starter was seated in you can manually move this with your finger. If the clutch moves only one way then its OK as I found with mine. Motor mechanics I asked suggested it was the clutch dampner, which from viewing several cutaway diagrams appears to sit either on the shaft of the Alternator or engage it, (not Sure) and all but one had said that the engine was going to have to be removed and split to replace it. AU$1400 was the cheapest quote. Found one genius whom recons he could change it by removing the Alternator and accessing it that way without the need to split the engine. He did it to his other mechanics amazement and mine. The guy is a genius and saved me AU$800 in the process. The bike now starts almost immediately and easily, just needs a little choke in cold starts.

Hope this is of some help. May not be a cheap to fix.

Arthur

 

I had to replace my rectifier on my 1990 last year (26k miles).
Symptoms: bike stalled at stop light and would not start for several minutes. Once started I had to rev the motor a lot when slowing down to keep motor from stalling. Same day, while riding on highway at about 70 mph the engine sputtered a few times then just died as if she ran out of gas. I can't remember how I determined it was the rectifier but replaceing it solved my problem. I may have called Rick's Motor Sports Electrics (see link below) and asked them what may have been the cause/problem. They were recomemended in Motorcycle Consumer News as a "discount" (cheaper thatn OEM) resource for electrical parts.
btw - I never had problems starting until the bike stalled on me. ie no cold start issues.


bought it from:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Good Luck!

 

Reg & Alternator replace when I brought the bike
Day one: pick up bike
Day two: ring shop to pick up bike as it wound flat quickly and when I got it working, it wouldn’t hold it's change, run for 5min and stall with a cough, battery was flat.

I notice when I got the bike back that the Head Light and Instruments Lights would get bright with any revs pass idle.


Electrics Good, Cam Chain Bad

 

VFRs are notorious for this kind of issue. They cook themseves AND adjacent electical componets from 1986 till about 2002. Having had this problem before the real culprit was a bogus ground wiring system. The ground from the generator to the R/R is pure bollocks!
This causes problems else where. Anywhere


The VFR list shows a cooling fan / heat sink approach like the one from listed from Down Under. But after taking the wiring apart ( hell of a job!) its obvious the original ground is cocked off! The gound wire is thin guage and runs all over the electrical system BEFORE
it terminates to the frame. Stupid as bloody hell design!


The eventual fix ( aside from replacing batteries and R/R) is to make a direct ground from the voltage reguator to the frame. The VFR list ( from Wisconson) has every variation of resolving the R/R problem. The best sign for R/R probems is a metling connecter between the generator and R/R. This problem is characteristic to several honda models. Honda NEVER acknowleged the problem until recently. But the way they did it was to offer a "upgrade wire kit".
The FASTEST ,CHEAPEST, SIMPLIST way to attack the RR/ Dead Batery Syndorme is to
clean ALL the connectors in the wiring loom ( seriously) , waterproof them, clean the battery gound to the frame ( it could be internally cracked, [I've seen this ]) and splice a seperate
direct ground from the RR to the frame.

After 5 RRs, 2 batteries and uncountable swearing and cursing ( almost forgot the tow bills)
the problem went away. The cooling fan idea sounds cool ,but hell, simple is better.


I did not know untill reading this post that the 1000F had the same problem.
Bully, now I'm going to ground it and ground it good!

Cheers

Oh well