When I was out with the missus for a run the other day I noticed the bike would bounce/wallow over certain parts of the road. I know where the pre load adjuster is, but should there be a control **** there or does it require a special key? All I can see is a shaft with a straight screw head in center and a plastic surround that looks like something could locate around it.

 

My Supersport '92 1000F has an extended hex head key, that fits that adjuster[Although ive never changed the position in 5 years].

 

I have not played with mine, seems to handle pretty well as it is so never felt the need, not much help to you Mo, sorry

 

mine takes an 8mm socket I think...might be 10, but I think 8...I just used an extension and ratchet

 

See pictures...

 

so can someone explain about preload and damping? I know very little about it and would like to understand it better...I know its related to weight so me alone...160#, passenger total would be about 300#...how would I make my adjustments for normal highway riding? ok..all together now....NOOOOBBBB! sorry...Im used to building choppers with rigid frames...cant remember the last bike I rode that had shocks, lol.

 

Excellent Naga_Thai, just what I needed to see, I presume that's part of the handbook? Anyhow, next time I take the missus out I'll take the tools required and play. I can picture the missus flying off saddle like the James Bond ejector seat in the movies on the first large bump on the road.
Thanx all for input.

And swisherred, your not the only N00B here. I used to have bikes when i was a teenager and when it was 2 up the adjustment was using a 'c' key on the rear springs, now.. LOL
The last bike I owned was a GPz750 and it was happy on it's setting whether I had a pillion or not, so the need to adjust was not required.

 

Hi Swishered , as I understand it the rear spring is under tension and the pre-load adjustment can increase or decrease the tension on the spring allowing for a softer or firmer ride . I have never touched mine , but I presume with two up and baggage you would need to increase the pre-load for a firmer ride and with a single rider you could ease it off allowing for a more compliant ride

 

MO777 - Adjust rear to this following standard method works ...
Go TO
http://www.promecha.com.au/index.html
Go to "Tech Talk"
Go to "set-up and tuning - Road"


Front suspension for info only.

============================================
Precis of web link follows......

Where do you start when a new suspension adjuster setting is needed? The following method will give you the "first big step" in getting to a baseline setting. To begin, use these guides for a static or in the garage test:
1st set spring sags (preload)
(see diagrams and instructions below) the most important one is with you on the bike. The spring can be set anywhere that produces the right result on the day.

• Use a tape measure and/or cable tie, be sure not to bounce and push the tie down too far (note forks can be sticky so don't worry about slightly different readings)
  
  
  
  
  
  

Fully ExtendedBike SagRider Sag

• Fully extend the forks with the wheel off the ground and do not use a fork stand. Place a cable tie around fork leg, slide against the rubber dust scraper

• Lower the bike and then lift again to fully extended position.
  The first distance that the cable tie has moved on the fork is Bike Sag

• Get on bike with both feet on pegs in the normal riding position (get help or elbow the wall ). The second distance the cable tie has moved is Rider Sag

• 
  Front Rider Sag Range:
  Rider Sag Range: 25% <---> 33% of total wheel travel
  (use these figures as a guide only, test-riding will clarify the result)
  25-45mm depending on specs of your bike. Check your manual for exact specifications
  race bikes can be less than 25mm
  

• Use a tape measure, be sure not to bounce.

Fully ExtendedBike SagRider Sag

• Fully extend the rear suspension with the wheel off the ground. Do not use a swingarm stand. Measure vertically up from the rear axle to a convenient point on the bodywork or use masking tape. This is your fully extended measurement

• Lower bike with wheel on ground. Measure to the same mark.
  The reduced distance is Bike Sag #1 minus #2

• Get on bike in the normal riding position with both feet on pegs (get help and also elbow the wall) and measure to the same mark. The final reduced distance is Rider Sag #1 minus #3

• 
  Rear Rider Sag Range:
  Check bike manual for your bike's rear 'total wheel travel'
  Rider Sag Range: 25% <---> 33% of total wheel travel
  

2nd set the rebound
a bounce test will give you a close approximation. Front: hold and keep the brake on push down hard at least half travel and watch how the bike rebounds, no bounce when it stops is o.k.
Rear: it's similar for the rear only look for a uniform rate of rebound without being too fast, you don't need the brakes on.
3rd set the compression last
it is difficult to feel compression settings without riding the bike, I would prefer them to be soft at the start WHEN
you have satisfied yourself that the above static tests are o.k. the next step is to set the damping range. * warning * Never use all the way in nor all the way out as a setting - this is dangerous. When adjusting the compression and rebound adjusters, fork and shock, you turn them all the way in to full firm (that is zero), then count turns or clicks out for your setting.



WHY




Isolating the functions of spring, rebound and compression will give you clear messages on where your settings should be.



# 1. springs

• 
  Check the preloads, check the sags (see diagrams above) And if they’re correct, the next two steps involve setting DAMPING. Damping is the use of oils and their properties to absorb the energy that would otherwise cause the springs to react uncontrollably when they bounce back. NEXT......
• # 2. rebound damping
  You can ignore compression settings at this stage. When you go over a bump, the spring compresses exerting some force pushing the tyre into the ground. When the bump doesn’t compress the spring any more, it rebounds. You must control the return rate of the spring first because the spring and rebound combination is what gives you stability. Use the above soft/hard and in-between setting method to find the 80% baseline setting. The NEXT step is…....
• # 3. compression damping
  When the spring and rebound settings make the bike stable, you can then progress to compression settings to control the feel of how you travel over bumps. Use the same soft/hard and in-between method to find the 80% baseline setting.

This is the FIRST BIG STEP –


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Thanx again, did you not want to hear about the ejector seat story then.

[quote=Naga_Thai;768797]MO777 - Adjust rear to this following standard method works ...
Go TO
http://www.promecha.com.au/index.html

When i clicked on that link above my internet security kicked in with this

Can you verify this site?