A question about gearbox
I wonder if the gearbox type has been changed between SC21 -88 and SC24 -95 models?
In that earlier ex-bike, I had totally perfect and soundless gearbox, but now in -95 model
there is loud 'click' every time I change gear. Otherwise it is working OK.
Is this sound normal or is there something wrong?
In that earlier ex-bike, I had totally perfect and soundless gearbox, but now in -95 model
there is loud 'click' every time I change gear. Otherwise it is working OK.
Is this sound normal or is there something wrong?
Mine is a '96, and it has a fairly loud click every time i shift gears, especially when put into 1. gear. I don't think its a problem, all the bikes I have had made that sound and they didn't break down !
Mines a 94.
From memory, this bike changes quite smoothly, compare to the other bikes I’ve had, but it has the loudest gear change when changing from neutral
From memory, this bike changes quite smoothly, compare to the other bikes I’ve had, but it has the loudest gear change when changing from neutral
I think a shift "clunk" or "ker chunk" is more like it for my bike.
It seems to be a Honda trait. My 82 750F, and 83 1100F also clunk, especially going into first from neutral.
One thing you can do - get the bike to idle really well; clean pulgs, clean tank, clean fuel delivery lines and carbs. Sync the carbs, and set the proper mixture..
Then set a reliable idle under 1000 RPM, (lower if you can) and the first clunk is much less.
Cheers..
It seems to be a Honda trait. My 82 750F, and 83 1100F also clunk, especially going into first from neutral.
One thing you can do - get the bike to idle really well; clean pulgs, clean tank, clean fuel delivery lines and carbs. Sync the carbs, and set the proper mixture..
Then set a reliable idle under 1000 RPM, (lower if you can) and the first clunk is much less.
Cheers..
KLUNK!!!!!!! It's normal, for our bikes. If it makes ya feel better... fireblades are klunky too !!!!
I'm paronoid of turning the idle down below standard, as the oil preasure would be lower too. It was standard practice, w/ early vf's, to crank the idle up to 2500, on start up,and the idle, + 200 (1200) to ensure good preasure. they are notorious for poor cam faces, flake'n. I've never heard of that being a problem, w/ ours... Clean and free, Ripp'n
I'm paronoid of turning the idle down below standard, as the oil preasure would be lower too. It was standard practice, w/ early vf's, to crank the idle up to 2500, on start up,and the idle, + 200 (1200) to ensure good preasure. they are notorious for poor cam faces, flake'n. I've never heard of that being a problem, w/ ours... Clean and free, Ripp'n
Wow, if you think that these bikes clunk, you should hear an FJR! My 2005 is really a ker-clunker. It's typical and on them and everyone is used to it.
FWIW I run Shell Rotella syn oil and a pint of STP in the blue bottle, which seems to really improve not only the 1st gear clunk, but shifting into all gears is butter smooth. No clutch slippage or any think like that. I used to use Mobil 1 until they changed it from the red cap formula and added some sort of friction modifiers that did cause clutch slippage.
FWIW I run Shell Rotella syn oil and a pint of STP in the blue bottle, which seems to really improve not only the 1st gear clunk, but shifting into all gears is butter smooth. No clutch slippage or any think like that. I used to use Mobil 1 until they changed it from the red cap formula and added some sort of friction modifiers that did cause clutch slippage.
Hmmm, thats a good thought on the oil pressure, some day I'll have to hook up a gauge. Although - the oil light going out is a good indicator in itself.
Seems many owners have succes with different oils, I might try that.
The only thing to watch for is whether your bike can use synthetic with moly (molybenum - spelling?). The previous owner of my bike changed with real Honda synthetic - without moly. They also make a synthetic with moly. The moly is definately NOT reccomended for the 1000F due to clutch slip concerns.
I have found the parts guys in the dealerships very knowledgable about oil suggestions.
Seems many owners have succes with different oils, I might try that.
The only thing to watch for is whether your bike can use synthetic with moly (molybenum - spelling?). The previous owner of my bike changed with real Honda synthetic - without moly. They also make a synthetic with moly. The moly is definately NOT reccomended for the 1000F due to clutch slip concerns.
I have found the parts guys in the dealerships very knowledgable about oil suggestions.
Oil favorites... It's like convince'n someone to change there fav. color !!!!!!
My pro oil guru says... there are two kinds of moly... soluible (clutch safe) and "hard" moly( like ball bearings) that will smoke your clutch in a flash... I've used Schaeffer, w/ moly, for years, never a clutch problem, even w/ screeem'n drag starts(9k!!!) clean and free, ripp'n
My pro oil guru says... there are two kinds of moly... soluible (clutch safe) and "hard" moly( like ball bearings) that will smoke your clutch in a flash... I've used Schaeffer, w/ moly, for years, never a clutch problem, even w/ screeem'n drag starts(9k!!!) clean and free, ripp'n


