Didn't know there was such a thing as masterlink'd camchain for them. That WOULD save you a ton of work and money. Personally I'd rather stick to factory continuous but that's just me. One thing I would disagree with in that "How-To" is don't prime your tensioner before installing it. You're just making life hard on yourself installing the cam sprockets. As mentioned, there's very little slack to play with. I always left tensioner dry until it was installed. Then using long neck oiler, let oil run into tensioner. Pump it up using screwdriver working lever in center of tensioner. Good Reply! Learn something new every day..and I'm always eager to learn something.

 

Camchain by DID with a link - about $75 + maybe 6 hours work.
Camchain by Honda - price unknown, but
1 set gaskets
remove engine
split casings
replace engine
time - maybe a week if you're lucky and have the right tools.
No contest IMO - masterlink is the way to go........................

 

Yeah that IS a time saver. It was a 1 day job but I've done it several times. Getting that dang thing back in frame is an experience by itself LOL. I put my RR motors in by myself. When I converted it to Blackbird motor, still put it in myself (185 lb. motor). Definitely could've made the 1000F a lil more user friendly LOL

 

It does not need to come out of the frame or even need to be moved like was said before. You can take to top end completely down to the case without removing it from the frame. At least I can and have. How was the conversion? I have a line on a 2004 1000rr engine I was considering putting in mine. I like fuel injection

 

Yeah, I left engine in frame when I stuck 1049 kit in mine. I just included that because it was listed above. Getting cylinder back down on the pistons sucked. Couldn't use standard squeeze type ring tool because they wouldn't clear the studs. I ended up taking piece of pvc pipe and cut in half and ground one end to a taper. Then used hose clamps to squeeze rings.
As for the conversion, I thought it went pretty easy. If I had a welder and acetylene torch kit at home I could've had engine in frame in 1 day. If you were doing it for a street driven bike, you'd have to fab an airbox for it. But that wouldn't be too bad (cardboard templates and fiberglass kit). I can tell you that is one strong as hell engine. Best thing i ever did for my bike. I've built a 945 nitrous motor, a 997 motor, and none of them compare to that XX power. You don't have to wait for it like other motors, it seems to always be there regardless of rpm's. I have a 93 RR in storage that I want to stick a 1000RR motor in like you. That would be one sweet combo as well. I did a thread on the build at rrzone.com in the modifications section if you wanted to see it. I'm waiting to get clutch put back in it. I can tell you it flat out walks away from a Busa. Not barely pulls, I mean walks away.

 

Btw, that 04 1000RR is one strong motor. Got a buddy with one that he races with. It runs LOW 5.90s in the 1/8th and valvecover has never been off it, bone stock motor. He has a Micron slip-on and power commander and geared.

 

the noise was gone a little since i flushed with auto transmission fluid syntec.. it works..

 

ur very wise man!

 

He knows that already

 

It gets easier after you've done it 3 times....hehe
If you need a camchain with a link - I have a brand new one I can send you for cost and postage.