i wonder how much it cost for both replacement include parts and labor?

 

Down here in US .......Raiden between 750 & 950 in bike shops and Honda shops
will only do the honda continuous chain which means cracking the case and that is
why the cost is so much.

Do it yourself all parts etc ..... $250 bucks tops by my calculation.

PM MichaelParks ..... he has the most recent breakdown on cost as he just
put a new one with a mechanic friend in his bike .

 

Trust me, unless you've been in that motor before...hire someone to do it. I think Honda went out of their way to make that motor hard to work on (yet the same year 600 was "normal"). Getting cylinder down over pistons is total pain. Normal ring squeezers won't clear the cylinder studs. Not to mention how much fun that 170+ lb. motor is to get back in frame. Motor has to be tilted back and rotated slightly. It's easily a 3 man job, no kidding. I went into mine several times. My 900RR motor is child's play compared to it.

 

no time to fix it sprock, i'll bring it to the wrecker bike shop, i think its cheaper charges than honda shop..

 

You can do the tensioner by itself with motor in frame, but again, HUGE pain in the rear. Unlike "normal" bikes, cams have to come out. Then you gotta worry bout those 2 tiny clips that hold tensioner to rear chain guide falling into motor. I'm having mental flashbacks as we speak (and I ain't worked on one in 4 or 5 years).

 

is it really HUGE pain ? maybe i'm gonna hire a magician to fix my bike..

 

i don't understand why some tensioner was outside the motor?

 

I guess it would depend on who you asked as to how much a pain it is. But there are countless bikes out there that you can replace tensioner without even removing valvecover. And a ton of bikes that you can remove the chain without splitting cases. Like I said, even to replace your tensioner you gotta remove front mounts, one rear mount, then rotate engine back so valvecover will clear frame. Then cams have to be removed, and on those the cam sprockets have to be removed, then the cams. Then, as mentioned, gotta pack rags in camchain cavity to keep those little clips from falling in there. They aren't much bigger than paper clips and takes pressure to slip them out. Then on install, same problem with those clips. Then getting cam sprockets back on (you can get some extra chain tension by sticking long flat screwdriver down center of tensioner and pressing the relief lever, but still isn't enough slack to do it easily). I wish you were closer, I'd do it just for nostalgia's sake LOL. I sold everything I had 1000F related several years ago. It was enough to fill bed of full sized pickup up above the cab. Had my race motor with 1049 kit and racecut tranny. Another complete stock motor, 3 frames, COUNTLESS parts. All for cheap sum of 1200 bucks. She was a great bike, just not enough aftermarket speed parts available for me to keep up with competition.

 

And what killed me was the tensioner for the alternator chain is a NORMAL type tensioner. Why in the world they couldn't put one of those on the camchain is beyond my reckoning.

 

Look in the how to section. It's NOT that hard if you use a chain with a masterlink. Many of us have done it - I have - 3 times. No motor out, just cam cover off, tank and carbs off.