No fuel to numbers 2 and 3
#21
06-14-2013, 10:32 AM
#22
06-14-2013, 04:32 PM
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If the pipes are warm then, you should switch out the coils to see if the problem follows them. Do this to rule out coil & plug wire problems. Maybe move the plugs too, they could be cracked.
If things remain the same, problem leans toward compression. Rings or valves would be in question. You still need to crank it with palm of hand over intakes.
The problem may be as simple as tight valves where more lash would get them seated.
If things remain the same, problem leans toward compression. Rings or valves would be in question. You still need to crank it with palm of hand over intakes.
The problem may be as simple as tight valves where more lash would get them seated.
I have got a bit more technical now, exhaust temps are as follows. Taken after allowing the bike to idle for 15mins and allowing the radiator fan to start.
Number1 187
Number2 91
Number3 90
Number4 190
All temps in centigrade in case of any doubt for my American friends!!
Would it be possible for that temperature differential to exist with just out of balance carbs? I was thinking of buying a Morgan carbtune but I am running low on funds at the minute
Appreciate all your help guys
#23
06-15-2013, 07:59 AM
OK things have changed now. From your previous post I thought you were saying that it wasn't running on 2&3.
If 2&3 are heating up you have to have some kind of compression to get thing to light off. It may be low but its there. I would still switch the coils to see if there is a problem with them.
The real problem may be what you expect, balance. With all the carb work you have done they may be off. This being said, yes if 2&3 are shut down they won't get as hot.
With the carbs out you can get them close by running the smallest feeler gauge under the butterfly and making all openings the same.
Start with #2 and use the idle screw to make the opening. Then match the others to it.
If 2&3 are heating up you have to have some kind of compression to get thing to light off. It may be low but its there. I would still switch the coils to see if there is a problem with them.
The real problem may be what you expect, balance. With all the carb work you have done they may be off. This being said, yes if 2&3 are shut down they won't get as hot.
With the carbs out you can get them close by running the smallest feeler gauge under the butterfly and making all openings the same.
Start with #2 and use the idle screw to make the opening. Then match the others to it.
Last edited by TimBucTwo; 06-15-2013 at 08:02 AM.
#24
06-15-2013, 08:16 AM
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OK things have changed now. From your previous post I thought you were saying that it wasn't running on 2&3.
If 2&3 are heating up you have to have some kind of compression to get thing to light off. It may be low but its there. I would still switch the coils to see if there is a problem with them.
The real problem may be what you expect, balance. With all the carb work you have done they may be off. This being said, yes if 2&3 are shut down they won't get as hot.
With the carbs out you can get them close by running the smallest feeler gauge under the butterfly and making all openings the same.
Start with #2 and use the idle screw to make the opening. Then match the others to it.
If 2&3 are heating up you have to have some kind of compression to get thing to light off. It may be low but its there. I would still switch the coils to see if there is a problem with them.
The real problem may be what you expect, balance. With all the carb work you have done they may be off. This being said, yes if 2&3 are shut down they won't get as hot.
With the carbs out you can get them close by running the smallest feeler gauge under the butterfly and making all openings the same.
Start with #2 and use the idle screw to make the opening. Then match the others to it.
I like your idea about the feeler gauges, low cost option for me. I am going to ask around to see if I can borrow a carb balancer?
#25
06-15-2013, 08:53 AM
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Thanks again TimBucTwo. I have swapped out the coils and checked all the resistances as per the service manual, spot on, but problem still there. I turned the balance screw (counter clockwise) for number 2 carb about 1/2 turn and I could here the engine speeding up significantly. How many turns can you get on these screws, I assume the spring pops out at some point?, If I kept screwing number 2 counter clockwise and the downpipe got hotter then that may prove it is just a balance issue?
I like your idea about the feeler gauges, low cost option for me. I am going to ask around to see if I can borrow a carb balancer?
I like your idea about the feeler gauges, low cost option for me. I am going to ask around to see if I can borrow a carb balancer?
Think maybe Tuesday night I will get a chance to give it a go, what with shifts, etc. Things looking a bit more postive now.
Wondering if any of the forum members could do an exhaust temp check on a balanced bike for me. Don't know if 200C is about right or too hot.
Cheers
#26
06-15-2013, 09:42 PM
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There's a cheap tool place over here called Harbor Freight. They have three temperature gauges: Search results for: 'laser temperature' and I keep saying I'm going to get one, but never do.
One other thing you could check is the resistance of the spark plug wires. In the cap just above the spark plug is a resistor the size of a rice grain. If it goes bad, you will have little if any spark. For the length of the wires, they should all have the same resistance. If not, look in the cap, there is a screw. If you unscew it, you will find the resistor. I replaced mine years ago with 8mm screws (I think).
One other thing you could check is the resistance of the spark plug wires. In the cap just above the spark plug is a resistor the size of a rice grain. If it goes bad, you will have little if any spark. For the length of the wires, they should all have the same resistance. If not, look in the cap, there is a screw. If you unscew it, you will find the resistor. I replaced mine years ago with 8mm screws (I think).
#27
06-21-2013, 04:00 PM
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Kind of answered my own question. Turned number 2 balance screw out 2 FULL TURNS. Bike is idling like a pig but I am getting 175C on the downpipe and 200C on number 1. Hopefully I will be able to borrow some balance gauges.
Think maybe Tuesday night I will get a chance to give it a go, what with shifts, etc. Things looking a bit more postive now.
Wondering if any of the forum members could do an exhaust temp check on a balanced bike for me. Don't know if 200C is about right or too hot.
Cheers
Think maybe Tuesday night I will get a chance to give it a go, what with shifts, etc. Things looking a bit more postive now.
Wondering if any of the forum members could do an exhaust temp check on a balanced bike for me. Don't know if 200C is about right or too hot.
Cheers
Check out my video CarbBalanceVideo Video by Sean71K | Photobucket
Bad news I am still getting low temp on exhaust 2
At idle I now get the following.
No.1 140C
No.2 75C
No.3 67C
No.4 92C
When i run the bike up to 3000RPM all the exhausts come up to over 200C with the exception of number 2. I desperation I took the carbs back off again. the only thing I had not touched was the idle adjustment screws. I took them all out and they were all clean with the EXCEPTION of number 2, there was a lot of crud in there. As well with number 2 when you screw the idle screw RIGHT out, the spring washer and O ring come out with it as in this photo?
No2IdleScrew_zps4a986426.jpg Photo by Sean71K | Photobucket
On numbers 1,3 and 4 the springs washers and O rings stay put and just the screw comes out. They are not jammed, I can get them out it is just they seem to sit in there quite happy while on number 2 the O ring seemed to grip onto the screw and thus bring the spring and washer with it.
Is it possible that has been my issue on number 2 cylinder?
#28
06-22-2013, 11:21 AM
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