Apparently taking the speedo stuff all apart made it work again....
I had to drill out the screw holding the speedo cable to the sprocket cover...which means I need to replace the cover at some point.
But the cable was fine. All the ends were fine.
So I took the gauge assembly out, then took the speedo gear off of it. It all worked too.
Everything seemed to turn everything.
So I put my drill to the end where the plastic nut would go and got the speedometer to register 35pmh and the odometer to start working.
I guess something was not properly aligned before.
It sucks that I wasted money on the speedo nut and messed up the cover as well.
At least both are inexpensive.

I got the CCT back in without dropping anything down the block. I just need to attach it's bolts and torque it down.
The old chain guide was a bit worn. Maybe.5-.75mm from the new one.

Not sure if that will make much of a difference when it comes to the rattle.

My coil over plugs are also in. I'll work on those last.

 

Are these motors interference?
I installed the intake cam chain sprocket in reverse, so when the cam was installed the lobes were pointed wrong.
I put the chain on, tightened everything up, made sure the ex and in marks were lined up, then turned it counter clockwise and hear a metallic springy "pop pop".
At first I thought it was the CCT, so I turned it more, then hear the "pop pop" again.
That's when I noticed the intake cam lobes pointed in the wrong direction
It's what I get for rushing

I don't see any visible damage. No cracks.
Just worried what might have happened with the valves :/

One other thing I noticed, and probably helped screw me up mentally, was that one of the exhaust came holders for the right is actually an intake came holder for the right.........
So at least im not the first one to screw up here!

 

Nice rust free bike there matey, bikes we can only dream of in Blighty, still, mine are pretty rust free having had a bit of ago on them once stripped down.
Id be interested as to how the cct goes, does the noise go?

 

My current stable. Just picked up an 02 R1, completely disassembled, you can see the tail in the rear of the pic.


1000f carbs. My F2 carbs are behind it :P


Cleaning.


Finished the valve adjustments today. The exhaust valves were in need. Most were too tight, 2 were just right.


The circled cam holder is wrong. It's supposed to be a right exhaust. But it's a right intake. Someone replaced it previously.

Hoping to have it all back together and running tomorrow.

 

I have a "ticking" of some sort.
I had hoped it might go away after syncing carbs, but it did not.
I was fairly certain I adjusted and torqued the valve lifters correct. I even double checked the clearances.
I may have to run the bike with the cover off so I can zero in on the source.
It SOUNDS like a lifter or valve, but I am not sure.
I doubt it's CCT related.
The previous CCT noise is gone for the moment. You can compare this new vid to the previous one.


Old vid.


New vid



Any suggestions?
Refer to post #12.
I had made a mistake when installing the cam sprocket the first time.
Wondering if maybe I did damage something. A valve retainer or something similar.

 

When you pull the cover do you see any lifters with odd wear marks on any, or the cam lobes? The ticking does seem to follow 2X the exhaust sound, so I would agree it's something in the valve train. Perhaps check the lifers for side-to-side play on the base circle of each to ensure none are loose in their hold down?

With that swapped/incorrect cam holder on the exhaust, I would be concerned about proper oil pressure and alignment/clearance with the cam. From my understanding, those cam holders are line honed and clearanced for that specific cam, and NOT meant to be swapped to other locations, like IN for EX. If spinning the motor up reduces the sound, it could be added oil pressure effecting the possible cam journal or lobe clearance issue. Just a guess.

 

I just pulled the cover and ran it. Off hand I don't see anything wrong, and it doesn't sound WORSE or louder with the cover off.
It's hard to pinpoint direction, but the sound may be coming from the exhaust cam, which I did not remove, only adjust.
The exhaust valves were too tight mostly when I adjusted them.
Either way I need to double check the clearances again.
Maybe I didnt lock one down properly.

Revving the motor just increases the speed of the sound.

I do not like the cam holder issue. Whats worse is that both of the right cam holders have stress marks from someone tightening the cover way too much.
But the sound seems to come from the left exhaust side.
I'll need to pick up a cheap mechanics stethoscope.

 

Ok...
I found one of the valves to be just a bit too loose. .009IN vs .007IN.
Tightened it up to spec, readjusted the one next to it.
No more ticking.

The CCT is a lot quieter than when I first got it, but I'm not sure if it's quiet enough or should be replaced. I'll make a vid later.

I've been working on putting the carbs back in all freaking day. I kept noticing that the choke slider would hang. It wasn't a smooth release.
Spent a while smoothing out the metal slider, then even smoothed out the little nylon washers.
That did the trick.

Once I finally got all that back together, I decided to fix something that was bugging me.
The right controls had a piece of wire coming from a screw, to a bolt on the hydraulic clip next to it. When I removed the wire I found that the control would just spin around the clip on.
So I removed the control and saw that it was missing the little plastic dowel that would usually fit into a notch or dimple on the clip n.
What I found out just a bit ago is that these clip ons are not stock. They are about 3 inches or so higher.
This created two issues.
No dimple or hole was the first one. So I removed the right clip on, drilled a small hole where I thought the control dowel would go, then found a straight round piece of metal, from a wall hook, that fit the hole I drilled, and the hole in the control for the dowel.
It took a bunch of fiddling, but I think I got it. I screwed the control on the bar, and it seems to sit sturdy now, if not in a perfect position.

This showed me my second problem.
The hydraulic line for the brakes was tight. Too tight.
Same with the clutch line, which was worse.
When they replaced the bars, they ignored the lines.
So now I either replace the bars with OEM ones from ebay or have custom lines made.

 

I took the clutch and front brake lines into a local company and had them extend the lines by 3". Total was about $70, with crush washers and two new fittings as well.
I wasn't sure at first how they would extend them. Turns out they just cut and braze on some new barbs. Nice job too.



It's stupid what the previous owner did. They installed these raised bars, but since they were too high for the lines, they lowered the triple.
Kind of defeats the purpose.....

 

Will you need longer throttle cables? I'm looking for a set of used Heli bars like yours on eBay now. The hoses and longer cables were my concern for proper operation.