Neutral Light
#1
Neutral Light
Hello!
Having problems with my Neutral light at the moment.
Today I filled the bike with fuel and set off for work. All was well until I tried to start it at the pump. For some reason, the light did not come on but with some messing with the gears it eventually did.
For the rest of the day, I had to either start it on the side stand with the clutch in, or off the stand completely. The light does not work at all now.
The flickering when messing with the gears earlier suggests that the bulb is OK. I am therefore satisfied for now that the switch is at fault.
What do I have to remove in order to get to it? Is it a big job? Is it common?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers! [&:]
Having problems with my Neutral light at the moment.
Today I filled the bike with fuel and set off for work. All was well until I tried to start it at the pump. For some reason, the light did not come on but with some messing with the gears it eventually did.
For the rest of the day, I had to either start it on the side stand with the clutch in, or off the stand completely. The light does not work at all now.
The flickering when messing with the gears earlier suggests that the bulb is OK. I am therefore satisfied for now that the switch is at fault.
What do I have to remove in order to get to it? Is it a big job? Is it common?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers! [&:]
#2
RE: Neutral Light
I don't know if its common, but it is relatively easy to locate and test.
You would only have to remove the right side panel to see and get at the switch and wire loom. According to the Haynes manual in chapter 5 section 6, it says to disconnect the single light green/red wire from the main loom and check for continuity between the wire and ground. if the switch is in good condition, there should be continuity when the transmission is in nuetral and high resistance (open-circuit) when it is in gear. If not, the switch is faulty and must be renewed. This switch is located on the rear underside of the crankcase on 1000 models.
I would also test the side stand switch too. This is done by removing the left side panel, with basically the same procedure as noted above only the side stand switch will have a 3 pin block and you would also use ohms to test for continuity.
You would only have to remove the right side panel to see and get at the switch and wire loom. According to the Haynes manual in chapter 5 section 6, it says to disconnect the single light green/red wire from the main loom and check for continuity between the wire and ground. if the switch is in good condition, there should be continuity when the transmission is in nuetral and high resistance (open-circuit) when it is in gear. If not, the switch is faulty and must be renewed. This switch is located on the rear underside of the crankcase on 1000 models.
I would also test the side stand switch too. This is done by removing the left side panel, with basically the same procedure as noted above only the side stand switch will have a 3 pin block and you would also use ohms to test for continuity.
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