I think that's probably true, but you're also comparing apples to oranges, since I suspect you're comparing your breaking power when only grabbing the front brake lever. That's not a fair comparison, since you're only using two of the front pistons when you do this with linked brakes. Likewise, you'll probably find you have less stopping power with delinked brakes when using the rear brake pedal alone. To get the most stopping power from the front with linked bakes, you have to use both the brake lever and pedal. Linked brakes kind of operate as a poor man's ABS, since they force you into balanced braking front to rear and make it less likely that you'll lock up either wheel. As Cycle World said in a 93 review of the 1000F, "it's possible to lock up the brakes, but only if the rider is really trying to do so".

 

I see your point but when you really throw on the anchors ('roos and nutters in cars!) so much weight goes to the front that the back wheel would tend to skid first. Then you'd be forced to release pressure on the pedal and therefore loose braking power in the front brake because you'd go to only two pistons pushing. You're right about it being "poor man's ABS" and I know some riders really like it. Maybe there was something wrong with mine and that's why I hated it so much.

I know the 'Birds came out with linked brakes and vfr800s have them too. Mr Honda seems to know what he's doing so there must be some benefit to most riders...guess I'm just not one of them

Sorry Scotty...didn't mean to hijack your thread and rave about hating linked brakes.

 

Hi guys sorry to but in but I have an 88. Mine does'nt have linked brakes but only has 2 piston brakes up front. Will the front calipers from the linked system fit mine without changing the front end? As this would deffinaitely improve the braking on it.
On my other bike which is a gl1500 the linked brakes work very well but the rear brake works the front left caliper and the front works the right caliper. Great out on the road and hauls it down real quick for a big bike, as I also have a large trailer. When we are both on it and thew trailer is full the weight is close on 850kg. The only gripe I have is that when we go to rallies or camping grounds, you get on the grass and ti stop, you need to use the back brake. Linked brakes then become a bitch cos the front wheel skids on the grass and you tend to loose the front end. Not good with all that weight to pick up. Have got used to it but it is a pain.

 

The extra power of the brakes with all three pistons used is real - not imaginary.

You have changed the piston area to master cylinder area ratio.

Instead of 4 pistons to the master cylinder - you now have 6 pistons to the same master cylinder.

Std ratio with 1/2" master cylinder and 2 pistons operating in calipers is 15.3:1
Ratio with 1/2" master cylinder and 3 pistons operating in front calipers is 23.4 :1

Old non cbs ratio is 16.0:1

Recommended non-linked ratio is between 18:1 and 20:1

To get the correct the ratio with all three pistons used you need to obtain a 14mm master cylinder.
It just so happens that the CB1300 master cylinder is 14mm and looks like the cbr1000f one.

This will give a nice 19.2:1 ratio.

As a side note - my 1991 non cbs 1000f had ebc HH pads and HEL braided lines - I found that once the rear wheel left the floor - any more front brakes was redundant !! - haha

 

To check the linked brakes you need to put it on the center stand. Look on the front forks and you will see a small master cylinder that is activated when the front brakes are squeezed and rotate a part that moves. Rather than try to rotate the front wheel and squeeze the front brake to check it, you can find that section that rotates up to push the master cylinder. It has a bolt on it you can get a hold of and force the master cylinder to activate. While doing this, spin the back wheel to see if it will move. This will tell you if you are getting rear braking while applying the front brake.

The procedure is in one of the repair manuals, which I think you can view or download from this site.

I dont know if there is a mechanical method to check the front brakes are getting braking while applying the rear brakes. But I can tell you from experience of mine, if you are riding and push the rear brake pedal hard, the nose of the bike will drop due to the front caliper being activated.

I can see where many would want to de link their brakes, because I think when squeezing the front brake only, only front brakes should be working. And the same for the rear. Im normally that way, but i have grown accustomed to mine and they seem to work very very well with very little effort.

 

Yep - sorry to have hi-jacked your thread with technical bumf about de-linking.

How long has the fluid been in the bike ?

I suggest going to DOT5.1 brake fluid and bleeding the system before you try anything else
WARNING - DO NOT use DOT 5 silicone fluid - it is not compatible with the current fluid in the bike.

Here is the brake bleeding system for cbs brakes.

Remove rubber cap from secondary master cylinder (on left fork leg) - then undo orifice screw until it touches circlip.

Fill the front reservoir and bleed the FRONT RIGHT OUTER nipple until all air is gone and the fluid is clear.
( Pump with front lever for this )

Repeat the process for the FRONT LEFT OUTER nipple.
( Pump with front lever for this )

Fill the rear reservoir and bleed the FRONT RIGHT CENTRE nipple.
(this could take a while as this is the longest line)( Pump with rear pedal for this )

Repeat the process for the FRONT LEFT CENTRE nipple.
( Pump with rear pedal for this )

Fill the REAR reservoir and bleed the REAR CENTRE nipple.
( Pump with rear pedal for this )

Repeat the process for the REAR OUTER nipple.
( Pump with rear pedal for this )

It is critical that you do not allow any of the reservoirs to run dry during the process or you need to start again.

 

Good job DeanO. To add, you must loosen the orifice bolt on the front when bleeding the front brakes. I didnt ride my bike today or I would be able to tell you exactly where it is. Seems like its on the master cylinder mounted on the front forks. it has a plastic cover on it and there is an allen head screw under the plastic cover tab.

 

TBH I have never opened the orifice bolt when bleeding the cbr1000f or my current blackbird.

Mabee the fact of using a vacuum bleeder has made it unneccessary.

Always had firm feel to the brakes after doing the job.

Method Post edited to correct the method to book.

 

I de-linked because I hated dropping the bike when going down grassy hills or when on dirt roads. Slow riding in parking lots when only the rear is needed is a huge plus also. I have to agree with davethepom on these points.

Under very fast riding the bike was dangerous to me as it would stand up and head to the outside when the front came on when I was fully laid down.

After de-linking, with the type of spirited riding that I do, 6 front pistons vs. 4 was a big step in improving stopping power. Rear breaking into the apex now is a major plus.

De-linking is required if you plan on cutting your chicken strips back to a fine line as you need to control the bias of you breaking in the turns.

Still, the bike lacks. Whether linked or not, it still lacks stopping power. The braided lines did helped.

If you use both the lever and pedal when linked, you will have the same stopping power as de-linked with both lever and pedal (all pistons). The rotor diameters, piston diameters and lever lengths are the same creating the same pad PSI stopping pressure and rotor torque.

Options are softer pads and then master cylinder up-grade (as mentioned).

Deano, you are not hijacking. In the original thread, de-linking was mentioned and needed to be addressed.

 

I dropped mine the weekend after I picked it up swinging into a parking space on full left lock. Hit the back brake and went straight down...just didn't behave in a way I was used too and I couldn't relax on the bike when I didn't have full control of the brakes. Now I love it.