More CBR F questions
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Joined: Jul 2006
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More CBR F questions
Thanks for the load of responses to my question about tire pressures. I disagree that anyone really racing on radials would run anything less than recommended - no need for any more heat build up or wobbliness in the front end (at least those were things I didn't need when I raced).
Anyway, here's a list of things I'd like to get other's opinions on:
Tire size: It looks like Metzeler might make one of the best choices for the cbrf (steering, ride, wear, etc), but what size rear would you go with - 170/60 or 180/55 - I have the 180/55 racing Michelins (came with the bike) that look great, but probably need to come off before fall and colder weather. The larger tires looks neat, but is there a reason I would to go down to 170?
Valve Lash: My bike has 26500 miles (1500 mi mine so far) and it's a little hard starting (needs full choke for a minute to get going in 65F weather - this could be normal I don't know) and I'm wondering about checking the valve lash. Long ago I had a GS750ES with similar symptoms and after setting the valves in became a whole new bike (easier starting, smoother running, etc) - Does my Suzuki experience translate to the CBR at all?
Carb Balancing: Some of the starting issues may also be related to the carbs being out of sync. How often do you guys do this.
I'm also looking for what kind of issues I might run into with 26K miles on the bike.
Gearing: Since this bike spends most of it's life carrying me down straight highways doing business, picking up small parts, etc. I've considered changing the gearing to perhaps get a little more mpg - does this work, or do I end up too far under the torque curve and end up using just as much fuel?
Thanks,
Pat
Anyway, here's a list of things I'd like to get other's opinions on:
Tire size: It looks like Metzeler might make one of the best choices for the cbrf (steering, ride, wear, etc), but what size rear would you go with - 170/60 or 180/55 - I have the 180/55 racing Michelins (came with the bike) that look great, but probably need to come off before fall and colder weather. The larger tires looks neat, but is there a reason I would to go down to 170?
Valve Lash: My bike has 26500 miles (1500 mi mine so far) and it's a little hard starting (needs full choke for a minute to get going in 65F weather - this could be normal I don't know) and I'm wondering about checking the valve lash. Long ago I had a GS750ES with similar symptoms and after setting the valves in became a whole new bike (easier starting, smoother running, etc) - Does my Suzuki experience translate to the CBR at all?
Carb Balancing: Some of the starting issues may also be related to the carbs being out of sync. How often do you guys do this.
I'm also looking for what kind of issues I might run into with 26K miles on the bike.
Gearing: Since this bike spends most of it's life carrying me down straight highways doing business, picking up small parts, etc. I've considered changing the gearing to perhaps get a little more mpg - does this work, or do I end up too far under the torque curve and end up using just as much fuel?
Thanks,
Pat
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Sweden
RE: More CBR F questions
ORIGINAL: CBR1000Farmer
Thanks for the load of responses to my question about tire pressures. I disagree that anyone really racing on radials would run anything less than recommended - no need for any more heat build up or wobbliness in the front end (at least those were things I didn't need when I raced).
Anyway, here's a list of things I'd like to get other's opinions on:
Tire size: It looks like Metzeler might make one of the best choices for the cbrf (steering, ride, wear, etc), but what size rear would you go with - 170/60 or 180/55 - I have the 180/55 racing Michelins (came with the bike) that look great, but probably need to come off before fall and colder weather. The larger tires looks neat, but is there a reason I would to go down to 170?
Valve Lash: My bike has 26500 miles (1500 mi mine so far) and it's a little hard starting (needs full choke for a minute to get going in 65F weather - this could be normal I don't know) and I'm wondering about checking the valve lash. Long ago I had a GS750ES with similar symptoms and after setting the valves in became a whole new bike (easier starting, smoother running, etc) - Does my Suzuki experience translate to the CBR at all?
Carb Balancing: Some of the starting issues may also be related to the carbs being out of sync. How often do you guys do this.
I'm also looking for what kind of issues I might run into with 26K miles on the bike.
Gearing: Since this bike spends most of it's life carrying me down straight highways doing business, picking up small parts, etc. I've considered changing the gearing to perhaps get a little more mpg - does this work, or do I end up too far under the torque curve and end up using just as much fuel?
Thanks,
Pat
Thanks for the load of responses to my question about tire pressures. I disagree that anyone really racing on radials would run anything less than recommended - no need for any more heat build up or wobbliness in the front end (at least those were things I didn't need when I raced).
Anyway, here's a list of things I'd like to get other's opinions on:
Tire size: It looks like Metzeler might make one of the best choices for the cbrf (steering, ride, wear, etc), but what size rear would you go with - 170/60 or 180/55 - I have the 180/55 racing Michelins (came with the bike) that look great, but probably need to come off before fall and colder weather. The larger tires looks neat, but is there a reason I would to go down to 170?
Valve Lash: My bike has 26500 miles (1500 mi mine so far) and it's a little hard starting (needs full choke for a minute to get going in 65F weather - this could be normal I don't know) and I'm wondering about checking the valve lash. Long ago I had a GS750ES with similar symptoms and after setting the valves in became a whole new bike (easier starting, smoother running, etc) - Does my Suzuki experience translate to the CBR at all?
Carb Balancing: Some of the starting issues may also be related to the carbs being out of sync. How often do you guys do this.
I'm also looking for what kind of issues I might run into with 26K miles on the bike.
Gearing: Since this bike spends most of it's life carrying me down straight highways doing business, picking up small parts, etc. I've considered changing the gearing to perhaps get a little more mpg - does this work, or do I end up too far under the torque curve and end up using just as much fuel?
Thanks,
Pat
a) I've only runned 180, which works very well on road and on track.
b) When I bought my bike, several of the intake valves had zero play, they need to be checked if not done for long. Once adjusted, its just to follow the maintenance scedule and you will be on the safe side.
c) Carb sync is not anything one have to do on a regular basis on this bike, the linkage is sturdy. If they get out of sync it's probably another reason, like leaking intake rubber, clogged carbs or bad valve settings. If the carbs has been separated the need to be synced of course. Mine had not been synced for several years by the previous owner, but the still was within tolerance when I checked it with a Carbtune II gauge.
d) Since the bike has a lot of tourque at low and mid rpm's, there should not be a problem to use taller gearing as long as your cruise rpm doesn't fall below where the engine runs effecyively, i.e. stay above 3.500+ rpm or so. Even is the rpm is changed to lower than stock, there are always many gears to go down when fast acceleration is needed. My bike had a real good apetite for gas when driven hard, the best way to save fuel is simply to drive soft and not to fast, and be one gear up all the time if fuel consumtion is a concern.
Joined: Aug 2006
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RE: More CBR F questions
On the tyre front I've had Metzeler Z6s on mine for just over 5,000 miles and they're still going strong. The only criticism is they will spin up in the wet if you are giving it some abuse (mildly alarming at 80 mph in 4th). Mine are 170 and I've not tried 180s but generally a wider rear means slower steering and that's not something I'd want on a 1000F.
Your starting issue sounds like closed up valves (had this on a Yamaha Diversion once). But (as my other post confirms) I'm no expert
David
Your starting issue sounds like closed up valves (had this on a Yamaha Diversion once). But (as my other post confirms) I'm no expert
David
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