I am planning to de-link the brakes on my 93 CBR and I read through the previous threads on this. It sounds like there was once a master thread, but I can't find it. After reading through the other notes though, I think I have the idea. Before I start drilling, I wanted to sum it up and see if this sounds right.

1) Remove all brake lines, proportioning valve, secondary master cylinder

What remains:
- Front master cylinder assembly
- Rear master cylinder, foot pedal
- Front & Rear Calipers

2) On front, pull middle pistons and drill the cylinder bottoms. Plug inlet for middle pistons.
3) On left caliper, fashion new bracket to replace bracket lost with removal of secondary master cylinder
4) Rear caliper, do not modify, just plug center piston inlet and use two outside pistons per pad
5) Optional: Replace front master cylinder with larger unit (ex. CBR1300)
6) Replace cables with simple, straight runs and bleed.


Does that about sum up the steps? What am I missing?

Are there any brake line kits for other model year non-linked CBRs that will give me the correct length replacement lines?


Thanks,

Dale

 

Dale

I got mine done by a bike shop because I'm a lazy sod, but that sounds about right. They were also able to make braided lines for me way cheaper than a bought set. Hunt around your local auto mechanics (not just bike shops) for one with a licence and the gear, it might save you some $$. I didn't change my front master and have no problem with the extra lever travel..felt a little odd at first, but the brake works well. I'm well happy with the result as I like to decide which brake goes on, and when, for myself. Around tight mini-roundabouts I like to drag a bit of back brake and nearly came unstuck when the front chose to work too.

 

Yeah, I might end up building the lines, which is fine. I was just hoping to shortcut the process with some that are already made up.

It won't be the biggest task in this project... I am converting the bike to run an AC motor with a 96v/100 Ahr battery pack. Right now, it is stripped to the frame (see attached). I plan on rebuilding the brakes as part of the reassembly process.

d.

 

Wow! Looks like you're going to pretty busy mate. If you don't mind me asking, what's the AC motor for? Have you thought about a small 12v inverter instead if you want 'mains' voltage for something?

 

Actually, the AC motor is replacing the engine. It will be a 100% electric bike when I'm done. The AC motor I'm installing can generate 110 ft/lb of torque at the moment you twist your wrist.

 

Ahh, now I'm with you..I hope there'll be some pics up and a vid when she's running. I think that's a first here. Fit some sodding great air horns too so you can let the tin tops know when you're coming through . What do you estimate your range / re-charge time to be?

 

Yep - that sounds about right.

Try a three line kit from a 90 or 91 CBR1000F - they are pre-CBS bikes.

The pics attached show where to drill the calipers

 

Thanks Dean0, I will check that out. It will be nice to simplify that system. I labeled everything prior to removing it, but even still was thinking "Does it have to be that complicated?"

d.

 

"Tin tops," I like that. Yes, I will definitely be shooting some vids when I start bolting on things that move the rear wheel. And I WILL be adding a much louder horn.

A very rough estimate of range for this bike would be about 60 miles. Recharge time is in the 5 to 7 hour range. If I were to devise a method for attaching an auxiliary battery pack, I could double that range.

60 miles doesn't sound like a lot, but it fits my goals. I am not planning to go long distance touring. I am mostly building this bike to show what can be done, to take it to the drag strip a couple times a year, and to have something fun to take down to bike nights to show off. It will have enough range to ride for work when I need to visit clients, too.

I think in the next couple of years, we'll see a nice advance in lithium batteries by using nano technology to increase a battery's energy density and charge/discharge rate. We are really only a couple of steps away from having a battery pack that can give us what we'd consider an acceptable and "normal" range for a bike.

It's just a fun project. I'm keeping my other bike, the ST, just the way it is.

d.

 

Actually you should also pull and drill the rear caliper as well.
You need to pull the pistons from the calipers to clean the drilling chips. If you don’t you could have binding later.
Mark or keep tract of the pistons as there are four or five different sizes up front and two sizes in the rear.
Like Dean0 says, use '90 three line SS setup.