i have to replace the lock and 3 wire loom on a '94 type R 1000F. i can't budge the 'star' bolts from underneath. these take T40 size, 6 point, 'star' drivers. i've tried a star socket with extension rod and spanner, but there's not enough torque in this setup to break the seal. the splines on one socket twisted like butter. these bolts are really frozen on. i sprayed WD40 and hammered at them but nothing will shift them. what else can i try ? any gimmicks for shifting frozen bolts that won't mangle the star points and round them off permanently.

i'm a bit reluctant to cut the ignition block away with an angle grinder in case i slip and make a cosmetic mess of the yoke.

 

You might try using your bit with an impact driver. If you don't have one, they can be purchased fairly cheap, maybe $20 to $25 U.S. It's also a handy tool to have to loosen pesky bolts. You'll probably have to remove the top clamp to use it.

 

pacojoseph, thanks.
i wouldnt have thought of an impact driver. i never needed one before, but this could be the time to get one. i've spent $80 on useless couplers and attachments so far that haven't worked so i'll give this a try.

 

you need to take the yoke of to get at it i had to replace mine on a 1996 the bolts on mine were security bolts you need a hamer and a chisel to get the buggers of

 

I used a very long extension on a socket to get leverage out from under the plastics and had someone else hold the ratchet in place and push on the bottom of the ratchet and hold it straight on target. I think the ratchet was near the top of the fender with all the extensions I added on.

 

Luxcis,
If you are able to remove it, please let me know if the harness that attaches to the switch is changeable without replacing the whole switch.

The impact driver should help you if no other method works.

 

nutter, as soon as you said 'security bolts', it made sense. it hadnt occurred to me that these Torx (star pattern) bolts had been airgunned into undersized threads in the yoke for the life of the bike. but youre right, thats bound to be the design philosophy behind keeping the ignition barrel tamper-proof. i really dont want to go at it with hammer and chisel...

bicklebok: coincidentally, i went out for the impact driver today but i only got 4 hex bits with it. i have a motley collection of extension bars and adapters but i couldnt make up a compatible set to take the Torx T 40 bit off the impact driver. it only came with straight cuts (2) and pozidrivs (2)

the proliferation of these mongrel screwdrive types is driving me mental. the wikipedia article on all the iterations of pozidriv proves to me it's just a winfall for the tool industry. i didnt even know there was "polydrive", "one-way clutch", "tri wing", "double hex", "torq set" and "bristol"

imagine you had to buy a set of each in all sizes and adapters..

this week im going to a trade tool shop to look for the missing pieces to make a whole set. i really hope it works, since you say you got yours free despite these being security bolts -- which werent meant to ever be removed. maybe the secret IS to have an assistant keep the rig lined up and under tension while I do the turning of the ratchet. i dont have anyone to help me, so i expect a lot of grief with this issue. ive already wasted a week over it.

the replacement part i got was from Hap's cycles in sarasota FL. it was a honda OEM and the answer is, the entire switch, loom and 3-wire connector block is one piece. it's a machine-pressed assembly with no removable sections. i paid USD80, but i should have removed the old ignition switch, to confirm it would come off easily, before i ordered the new one. my old one was shorting at the rotating interface i think, and kept blowing headlamp globes. i had already replaced the voltage regulator to solve this problem, but after another globe went, that left only the ignition switch. the experts say to suspect the ignition switch early in the fault finding.

so if you have to get new parts, i dont think youll be able to avoid buying the whole assembly.

 

If you havent rounded off the hex heads, you should be able to get it with a ratchet and long extension. Mine were tight and I had to use the ratchet the whole way rather than a finger after i broke it loose. But it wasnt something I would say was all that hard to take out. Just need the right tools.

Im slowly adding to my tool collection every chance I get because working on bikes is extremely difficult in tight places, and having the proper tools makes it a whole lot better!

 

yes, i like collecting tools for future use, but i dont have an organised garage. because i cant find things easily, ive even bought the same tool twice. how stupid is that.

no i havent rounded the outside of the Torx bolts. remember, theyre inset stars. but i have begun to round off the internal points.

this afternoon i discovered the Erwin range of bolt extractors, so now i have another option. this may finally be the easier way to go, without an assistant to help me. problem: insufficient clearance to get the extractor over the Torx. the plastic flange of the ignition switch only leaves about 4mm gap to get the extractor in and i think theyre slightly thicker than that. (unless i grind the flange off)

i'll inspect them tomorrow. and i see that Black & Decker have a blister pack of 8 extractors, which come with a shifting spanner in the pack. here, the Erwin set of 5 is $57, while the B & D set is $30

so these could be useful tools to have around the garage in the future anyway.

 

that shouldve been Irwin range, not Erwin range..

i asked this question before, but here it is again.

i know CBR is Closed Body Racer, but what is the F for in 1000F ? i hope it means something.