In the link, all the straps are pulling forward. Unless you have a very strong brace to take the entire weight of the bike upon breaking and also have a strong channel for the front tire, this will not work well. The rearward pulling straps are very important.

As stated before, never place straps on the grips as they will hurt the throttle and grips can pull off taking the strap with it.

 

That extended front end might end up with a little bow in it if all those straps are really tight. And you will note that diagram says to use that method ONLY on an extended front end, so it doesn't apply our our bikes (or any bike really).

 

Maybe I didn’t explain correctly or ur to quick to judge. I said handlebars as I didn’t write a detailed email but u use your commonsense and depending on ur bike but you don’t strap it through or around any switches hoses or your fairings. Of course you would do it closer to center best through the top of the forks. But again I had different bikes before and I wasn’t only thinking of the 1000F. Second of all the bike wont be thrown with force to one side when a strap breaks as the straps go on an angle forward. Just the way anyone else would strap the bike. The force is actually distributed towards the front of the pickup bed wall not to the sides. If your using four straps system and one of your straps breaks the bike will tip too!
Everyone has there own ways and theory’s and don’t be to quick to judge! I wasn’t a believer when this person told at first also. But as he showed me how its done that one time and I have used it since I know it works! For anyone that uses a pick up or van to transport the bike before you use your own way try the two strap system. Ill explain quickly one more time. I have done this by my self but its easier with two people. Two straps through the front handlebars or forks ( So your not toughing any of your bike components) Make sure your bike is perfectly up right, roll it against the bed wall. Push on the handlebars to compress the forks and strap the two sides hard. Bike must be straight and make sure its not standing on the kick stand. Now if you can grab the back wheel try shifting the bike from side to side. If you did it right I guarantee the bike wont shift even with a lof of force. As for the straps breaking, i use ones that are good for straping down cars so i really dont think theyll break.
Anywys use any system you like but this is also one that works
Thanks

 

I hear you, but that just isn't so. If you're only using 2 straps, and you're not using a wheel chock that holds the bike up on its own, it will 100% definitely fall over, and hard, if one strap fails. If you don't believe me, put your bike in your truck this way, then stand to the side and release one of the two straps...please post video.

(dont' really do this...it will f-up your bike)

Also, if you use 4 properly, it will 100% definitely not fall over, at least right away, or until a second failure occurs. That's the entire point of using 4 straps. Using the 4 strap method you can lose both front straps, or one rear strap and still have a very stable platform. If you lose both rears, it will be a little wobbly but still won't fall over (I've had all of these scenarios happen over the years).

Like I said, there are many ways to skin the cat. But, if you can do it very easily and a) not have to smash down the forks b) not subject your setup to a single point of failure, and c) have a more stable platform, I have no idea why you wouldn't want to do that. But, like you said, it does work.

One side note I forgot to mention, I've seen several bent handlebars as the result of folks using the 2 strap method over the years..just another reason not to risk it IMO. Having unloaded several hundred bikes that other people tied down, I can tell you that virtually everyone ties bikes down WAY harder than is needed. If you need someone else to compress the suspension as part of your process, or if any sort of hard effort is required to tension your tie downs, you're not doing it in the best way you could be (I don't mean you personally...I mean the general 'you', as in y'all ).

Anyway, I think I've posted the same thing in here like 5 times, so I'll stop. I'm just trying to help folks out by posting from the perspective of having more loads/unloads/towed miles than the vast majority of folks, between years of working at bike shops and years of racing. Hell, I've probably had weeks where I loaded and unloaded more bikes than an average rider does in an entire lifetime. I have sold thousands of $$ in parts to people who didn't use good tie down methods, so I'm hoping to help others avoid a similar fate, that's all.

 

Ya, I agree with that...I go middle-of-the-road on this and usually have the rear ties pretty much neutral re: front/rear. Also, on teh Pingel method, it's pretty much exactly what I'm advocating, except IME there is no reason to go way ultra tight in the front. Do that in the rear, and do the front to where you're getting maybe 50% suspension compression...more than enough.

 

That is a hard thing to get across in a forum. Without touching the straps it is hard to explain the tightness of them. Just pull the front down as if you were under full breaking would explain it best. You want just enough down force so that the straps don't go slack when the truck/trailer hits the biggest bump en-route and the bikes suspension compresses.

I have trucked bikes with just the front straps and had to stop to readjust the rear of the bikes as the bikes have hopped to the side. The rear straps not only hold the bike from rolling forward but also keep it centered.

Then again I drive like a madman.

 

Hmm, I understand about braking, but the wheel chock, and tie down method proved to work well. This worked perfect in securing my 750 lb VTX 1300 in a single axle enclosed trailer behind a motorhome on a trip to North Carolina. About 1400 miles and no problems. I know guys who tie down heavier bikes this way also.

 

Yes, if you have a wheel chock.

Without one the bike is not locked in. You need 2-front pulling and 2-rear pulling straps w/o a chock. That's my point. I tried to nail down some 2x4" as a chock and the front tire rolls up and over it and the bike goes off the front of the trailer. The grove in the front of a pick up box is not a wheel chock, the grove in the bed of a pick up truck is not a chock. A good wheel chock comes up past 1/2 the height of the front tire, has side rails that run down the side of the tire and/or a channel runs the length past the axle of the front tire.

I got my bike home after I bought it with straps on the lower triple tree pulling forward to the box of the pickup and straps on the frame near the rear pegs pulling rearward to the sides. Sometimes I run a strap from each direction to the front wheel, keeping it from turning. I don't have a chock so I have to keep the front, on some bikes, from turning.

I just don't want people to think that they only need two straps pulling forward or four straps pulling forward without a wheel chock. Without a wheel chock, you need rearward pulling straps and in addition your front wheel needs to be locked from turning with straps. If you can strap the front end with only two straps and it does not turn you are good to go. If you can turn the front wheel with only two straps, you need to do something before getting underway.

 

Gotcha...I missed your point being no chock.

 

good refresher here on tie downs since I'm going to be doing it soon

no chock.....but screwed in \ / track and 4 D rings into cross members

2 front (canyon dancer) , 2 rear (takes care of side to side) motion

then

with 2 front to rear & 2 rear to front (takes car of front to back) motion

As I understand it .....no need to ratchet her down hard just enough as
to imitate you sitting on it so it don't bounce

Right ?? Did I leave anything out ?