One suggestion may be too whip off the lower side fairings and use the frame protectors , they're really strong and you could easily use them to tie the bike down.

 

Its not the size if you know what your doing with it

 

You do need one high point, like the bars, because that is the easiest place to have the most side to side leverage, to keep it upright. If all your attach points are at mid level, it will tend to twist at that level in corners. So it sounds like the straps in the rear keep it from moving forward under braking and the straps on the bars keep it upright and from moving back during acceleration.

 

That about sums it up.

It is best to have the front wheel up against the front to the truck bed or front of the trailer for breaking. It is a little tricky with a trailer as you want to distribute the weight evenly over the trailer wheels so that the trailer is balanced with not to much weight on the tongue of the tow vehicle.

As mention before, compressing the bike suspension a little helps to suck up bumps as the trailer or pick-up hits bumps and the bikes suspension compresses, at witch point the straps go loose if the suspension did not take up the slack.

I have not had to transport one of these bikes but can tell that it is a little harder to do so due to the plastic blocking access to the upper triple tree or to the handle bars, inside of the controls.

Typically I would use the Handle Bar Straps and grab the bars inside of the controls as not to harm them. If I had to transport one of theses bike I would be looking for ways to grab the lower triple tree form underneath or remove some plastic to get to the frame.

The grab bar is perfect for strapping the rear down.

 

Actually you don't. If it's done right, there will be 0 side-to-side movement with only the rerward straps (remember it's not actually in the back, it's more 'mid'). I had 2 racebikes in my trailer once from Louisville to Road Atlanta, and on one of them I had forgotten to do the front at all...only did the subframe where it bolts to the frame. The bike still felt like it was welded to the trailer...couldn't move at all. Note that this was with a front wheel chock...you do have to keep the front pointed to the front.

The thing that keeps it from moving forward should be a wheel chock, or the front of the trailer or truck. You don't want that kind of stress on the straps if you can help it.

re: the other post about the plastic being in the way...this is why you want to use a canyon dancer (or similar). With a bar harness type thing, the plastic isn't an issue. I trailered my CBR from Toledo OH to Nashville when I bought it like this, no problem.

Just remember, don't haul down the front end as if it's the only thing between you and disaster. If the side ones are good and tight, the front is just a safety...let the forks absorb some bumps.

 

Oh, and IMO I wouldn't use the grab bar for fear of breaking it (unless you're only doing it semi-tight as extra safeety straps).

 

I setup a small open trailer and now my enclosed trailer the same way. I use the straps called soft extentions with the loops on both ends to wrap around the forks in front, and the frame just under the seat in back. I used heavy duty eyelets on the open trailer, as it was a temp method of transport. Switched to the flush mounts on the new trailer. I use a wheel chock and ratcheting straps. The mounts are oriented so that the bike is pulled forward, into the chock, sorta at a 45 degree angle.

This method only needs one person to tie the bike down.

http://www.pingelonline.com/recommended_tiedown.htm

 

An experienced older rider told me all you need is two straps from the handlebars down to the front corners of a pick up or van. Front tire has to be pushed hard against the bed and while sitting on the bike push hard on the handlebars as another person tightens the two straps to compress the forks. There is NO STRAPS necessary in the back. I have been using this method since without any issues but not sure if a small trailer is the same as its lighter without suspension and hops more on pumps.

 

That will work, up until one of the two straps you're using fails and your bike slams into the side of your van or trailer with extreme force, due to how tightly it's tied down with the one remaining strap. It is a real concern...over 25 or so years of trailering/trucking bikes, I've had maybe 10-12 times where a strap totally failed.

I've also seen bent handlebars from excessive leverage via straps, I've seen broken throttle housings, ruined grips. broken switch gear etc. all from excessive force in this area. I'm not saying that it's not possible to do it this way without these issues...I'm just saying that it is impossible to have these issues if it's done a little differently. There are many different ways to skin this cat, but not very many are effective, easy, safe (see above), and treat your bike well.

On a side note, if you're trying to get straps on your forks so tight that you need someone to push down on the front end for you, that's about 6x more force than nec. if you use proper straps in the rear. The front ones should only be there to keep the bike upright if one of the rear ones loosens or fails.