How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
#1
12-16-2006, 02:08 AM
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How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
When I bought my bike I had very little knowledge of sportbikes and had no idea that 600lbs was HEAVY! I still like to ride like it's a sportbike vs. a sport-tourer! People that I ride with are usually pretty impressed with how well the 1000F handles for it's size. I want to see some pics of you guys carving some corners on your hurricanes!
I've got several of me posted in my gallery(camera that's under avatar
).
The biggest problem I have with the bike is the limited available lean angle. When trying to keep up with smaller bikes on more technical turns, my bike is dragging the pegs and centerstand while the guys I ride with have plenty of lean left and are moving at a faster pace! Oh well, I LOVE the high speed/power sweepers.
I've got several of me posted in my gallery(camera that's under avatar
).The biggest problem I have with the bike is the limited available lean angle. When trying to keep up with smaller bikes on more technical turns, my bike is dragging the pegs and centerstand while the guys I ride with have plenty of lean left and are moving at a faster pace! Oh well, I LOVE the high speed/power sweepers.
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12-16-2006, 11:46 AM
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#3
12-16-2006, 01:03 PM
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RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
When finances permit I'd like to get a smaller bike, perhaps an SV650 like my buddy, and go hit the track with him. Racing is an expensive hobby though! I may go do a trackday with my 1kF in the meantime but I'm not sure it'll be too fun since the bike is hard to flip from side to side.
#5
12-18-2006, 11:30 PM
RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
I wouldn't recommend trying wheelies on your 1000F. Besides the fact that you would have to rev the snot out of it and dump the clutch to get the front up, you will wreak havoc on your fork seals when it comes back down. Not a good idea on such a heavy bike.
#6
12-19-2006, 12:21 AM
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RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
Here are a few of the CBR at the track, running with the race bikes. In these pics it had 90,000 miles on the clock.
It is my preferred street bike as it's rideable all day long yet is pretty capable when it's time to get busy. I've ridden this bike 122,000 miles so far including cross-country, rocky mountain twisties, California canyons, NE Adirondacks, Appalacian Mountains including Deal's Gap..... until I crashed it.[:@] It's mechanically repaired and been test ridden but not finished cosmetically. The track coaching has been consuming massive amounts of riding time. Maybe next winter.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/591B723099D3414FA7E22033DAA4D94F.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/BCA7C94EF3B94938802FE86BA6B780CA.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/948CA7782017463D94032F65D3ADA138.jpg[/IMG]
While I'm at it, this is my 636 track bike that I use for coaching and teaching. Yeah, I know it's not a Honda but I got it right and it IS a hot rod. I use an EX-500 sometimes too, but have no pics of that in my 'puter.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/F62B8AAF9B2F4C56BC0B3CB8950CCC8C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/ADE91A198CFE47E5BA2495575D33A254.jpg[/IMG]
It is my preferred street bike as it's rideable all day long yet is pretty capable when it's time to get busy. I've ridden this bike 122,000 miles so far including cross-country, rocky mountain twisties, California canyons, NE Adirondacks, Appalacian Mountains including Deal's Gap..... until I crashed it.[:@] It's mechanically repaired and been test ridden but not finished cosmetically. The track coaching has been consuming massive amounts of riding time. Maybe next winter.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/591B723099D3414FA7E22033DAA4D94F.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/BCA7C94EF3B94938802FE86BA6B780CA.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/948CA7782017463D94032F65D3ADA138.jpg[/IMG]
While I'm at it, this is my 636 track bike that I use for coaching and teaching. Yeah, I know it's not a Honda but I got it right and it IS a hot rod. I use an EX-500 sometimes too, but have no pics of that in my 'puter.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/F62B8AAF9B2F4C56BC0B3CB8950CCC8C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/3449/ADE91A198CFE47E5BA2495575D33A254.jpg[/IMG]
#7
12-19-2006, 03:29 AM
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RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
I feel you're pain on the cosmetics! I crashed the bike Oct 1st and it's now rideable again but not pretty at all! LOL.
Girvin02,
I already know this bike is not a wheelie monster.....however, if you go about 15-20mph slip the clutch to about 7k and let it go, the front end will come up pretty well. Since the bike is so long/heavy you really can't get it up going any faster.....oh, and I've already had to do the seals, time consuming but pretty easy. I don't try that crap any more, even though I never grew the ***** to hit the BP!
I feel you're pain on the cosmetics! I crashed the bike Oct 1st and it's now rideable again but not pretty at all! LOL.
Girvin02,
I already know this bike is not a wheelie monster.....however, if you go about 15-20mph slip the clutch to about 7k and let it go, the front end will come up pretty well. Since the bike is so long/heavy you really can't get it up going any faster.....oh, and I've already had to do the seals, time consuming but pretty easy. I don't try that crap any more, even though I never grew the ***** to hit the BP!
#8
12-19-2006, 03:51 PM
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RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
ORIGINAL: HeavyCBR
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
In your pics, body position looks good. That's an item we work with newer riders on a LOT.
In those track pics you'll notice the pipe covers removed and centerstand removed. I leave the centerstand off at all times due to the left side arm but the pipe covers will flex and aren't as likely to upset you. The problem is more cosmetic, you'll grind right through them.
I raised the front with spacers to get the sag up to about 1 3/8" from the stock position of 2 1/8". I raised the fork oil level from factory recommended 6 7/8" to 4 3/4" to make the front springing more progressive and less prone to bottoming on hard braking.
I also take a bag of peg bolts to the track with me and grind them off every session. I use standard bolts, slightly shorter than stock, and put them in with a jam nut. I keep them in because they are a real good indicator that you're really close to the pipes which are rigid enough to pitch you. I've been up to the brake pedal nub which is now ground at an angle and also kissed the fairing at the bulge over the clutch cover.
I also put several layers of duct tape on the lower corners of the fairing where they normally attach to the pipe covers. That's sufficient to keep them from showing the marks where they can kiss the track. These DO have corner clearance issues when running extreme but you can get a TON out of them, more than most think. It routinely surprised a LOT of riders at the track.
#9
12-19-2006, 06:23 PM
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RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
ORIGINAL: dad
You'd love it!
In your pics, body position looks good. That's an item we work with newer riders on a LOT.
In those track pics you'll notice the pipe covers removed and centerstand removed. I leave the centerstand off at all times due to the left side arm but the pipe covers will flex and aren't as likely to upset you. The problem is more cosmetic, you'll grind right through them.
I raised the front with spacers to get the sag up to about 1 3/8" from the stock position of 2 1/8". I raised the fork oil level from factory recommended 6 7/8" to 4 3/4" to make the front springing more progressive and less prone to bottoming on hard braking.
I also take a bag of peg bolts to the track with me and grind them off every session. I use standard bolts, slightly shorter than stock, and put them in with a jam nut. I keep them in because they are a real good indicator that you're really close to the pipes which are rigid enough to pitch you. I've been up to the brake pedal nub which is now ground at an angle and also kissed the fairing at the bulge over the clutch cover.
I also put several layers of duct tape on the lower corners of the fairing where they normally attach to the pipe covers. That's sufficient to keep them from showing the marks where they can kiss the track. These DO have corner clearance issues when running extreme but you can get a TON out of them, more than most think. It routinely surprised a LOT of riders at the track.
ORIGINAL: HeavyCBR
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
In your pics, body position looks good. That's an item we work with newer riders on a LOT.
In those track pics you'll notice the pipe covers removed and centerstand removed. I leave the centerstand off at all times due to the left side arm but the pipe covers will flex and aren't as likely to upset you. The problem is more cosmetic, you'll grind right through them.
I raised the front with spacers to get the sag up to about 1 3/8" from the stock position of 2 1/8". I raised the fork oil level from factory recommended 6 7/8" to 4 3/4" to make the front springing more progressive and less prone to bottoming on hard braking.
I also take a bag of peg bolts to the track with me and grind them off every session. I use standard bolts, slightly shorter than stock, and put them in with a jam nut. I keep them in because they are a real good indicator that you're really close to the pipes which are rigid enough to pitch you. I've been up to the brake pedal nub which is now ground at an angle and also kissed the fairing at the bulge over the clutch cover.
I also put several layers of duct tape on the lower corners of the fairing where they normally attach to the pipe covers. That's sufficient to keep them from showing the marks where they can kiss the track. These DO have corner clearance issues when running extreme but you can get a TON out of them, more than most think. It routinely surprised a LOT of riders at the track.
I read almost all of your posts and you amaze me! I hope one day I have the luck of meeting you. Till then Greatings and keep up the good work.
Paul
#10
12-19-2006, 11:16 PM
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RE: How hard do you push your heavyweight? (Post Pics!)
Nice to hear from someone that rides this bike even harder than me! Only think I've done to the front is new seals and heavier oil. It seems okay right now, but I may experiment with the oil level sometime to stiffen it up a bit.
What I find odd is that you use peg bolts but you still scrape the exhaust covers? Ever since the first time that I had a bolt touch down and upset the rearend, I've run without bolts. My pegs and rear brake lever are worn down but I've yet to touch down on the exhaust.....I have, however tagged the left side of the centerstand which was a bit scary!
What I find odd is that you use peg bolts but you still scrape the exhaust covers? Ever since the first time that I had a bolt touch down and upset the rearend, I've run without bolts. My pegs and rear brake lever are worn down but I've yet to touch down on the exhaust.....I have, however tagged the left side of the centerstand which was a bit scary!
ORIGINAL: dad
You'd love it!
In your pics, body position looks good. That's an item we work with newer riders on a LOT.
In those track pics you'll notice the pipe covers removed and centerstand removed. I leave the centerstand off at all times due to the left side arm but the pipe covers will flex and aren't as likely to upset you. The problem is more cosmetic, you'll grind right through them.
I raised the front with spacers to get the sag up to about 1 3/8" from the stock position of 2 1/8". I raised the fork oil level from factory recommended 6 7/8" to 4 3/4" to make the front springing more progressive and less prone to bottoming on hard braking.
I also take a bag of peg bolts to the track with me and grind them off every session. I use standard bolts, slightly shorter than stock, and put them in with a jam nut. I keep them in because they are a real good indicator that you're really close to the pipes which are rigid enough to pitch you. I've been up to the brake pedal nub which is now ground at an angle and also kissed the fairing at the bulge over the clutch cover.
I also put several layers of duct tape on the lower corners of the fairing where they normally attach to the pipe covers. That's sufficient to keep them from showing the marks where they can kiss the track. These DO have corner clearance issues when running extreme but you can get a TON out of them, more than most think. It routinely surprised a LOT of riders at the track.
ORIGINAL: HeavyCBR
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
Very nice dad! Looks like a lot of fun to be out on the track! Maybe I'll give it a go one of these days.
In your pics, body position looks good. That's an item we work with newer riders on a LOT.
In those track pics you'll notice the pipe covers removed and centerstand removed. I leave the centerstand off at all times due to the left side arm but the pipe covers will flex and aren't as likely to upset you. The problem is more cosmetic, you'll grind right through them.
I raised the front with spacers to get the sag up to about 1 3/8" from the stock position of 2 1/8". I raised the fork oil level from factory recommended 6 7/8" to 4 3/4" to make the front springing more progressive and less prone to bottoming on hard braking.
I also take a bag of peg bolts to the track with me and grind them off every session. I use standard bolts, slightly shorter than stock, and put them in with a jam nut. I keep them in because they are a real good indicator that you're really close to the pipes which are rigid enough to pitch you. I've been up to the brake pedal nub which is now ground at an angle and also kissed the fairing at the bulge over the clutch cover.
I also put several layers of duct tape on the lower corners of the fairing where they normally attach to the pipe covers. That's sufficient to keep them from showing the marks where they can kiss the track. These DO have corner clearance issues when running extreme but you can get a TON out of them, more than most think. It routinely surprised a LOT of riders at the track.