Houston.... I have a problem (electrical)
#11
12-12-2009, 08:23 AM
Oh oh .............indy's got a kick *** camera ...................my scroll bar is going to be
infinite from this point forward..........well at least the smileys will catch a break.
Indy that camera takes some sharp pics man .......very nice
AJ ...........I'd change the R/R and throw in a new battery if she older than 18 months
infinite from this point forward..........well at least the smileys will catch a break.
Indy that camera takes some sharp pics man .......very nice
AJ ...........I'd change the R/R and throw in a new battery if she older than 18 months
Last edited by Sprock; 12-12-2009 at 08:25 AM.
#12
12-12-2009, 09:40 AM
#14
12-17-2009, 10:16 AM
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other sources of regulators are
www.electrosport.com
www.espel.com.ar
www.rmstator.com
www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com
www.electrexworld.co.uk
i ordered the one from electrosport which will be AUD138 delivered to australia. this is much better value than the AUD290 honda is charging for the Shindingen regulator which has no heatsink. this is stamped SH261-12 and i've had 2 of them so far and blown 10 globes in 4 years at $20 a globe. the electrosport looked the best to me with a 6-blade connector ready to bolt on, advanced power management and a heatsink metal casing.
their website has the clearest fault-finding flowchart i've ever seen and will save you $100 an hour on an auto electrician, if nothing else. anyone with a multimeter can follow this chart. it mentions suspecting the ignition switch circuit of blowing headlamp globes, not just the regulator. that means checking fusebox, igntion switch itself (and loom and connecting block) and the positive pole of the battery.
there are other technical papers on this site, on the charging circuit, stator, armature and relays. all are easy to understand.
www.electrosport.com
www.espel.com.ar
www.rmstator.com
www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com
www.electrexworld.co.uk
i ordered the one from electrosport which will be AUD138 delivered to australia. this is much better value than the AUD290 honda is charging for the Shindingen regulator which has no heatsink. this is stamped SH261-12 and i've had 2 of them so far and blown 10 globes in 4 years at $20 a globe. the electrosport looked the best to me with a 6-blade connector ready to bolt on, advanced power management and a heatsink metal casing.
their website has the clearest fault-finding flowchart i've ever seen and will save you $100 an hour on an auto electrician, if nothing else. anyone with a multimeter can follow this chart. it mentions suspecting the ignition switch circuit of blowing headlamp globes, not just the regulator. that means checking fusebox, igntion switch itself (and loom and connecting block) and the positive pole of the battery.
there are other technical papers on this site, on the charging circuit, stator, armature and relays. all are easy to understand.
Last edited by luxcis; 12-17-2009 at 10:29 AM.
#15
12-17-2009, 02:58 PM
Administrator - Retired
#17
12-18-2009, 10:37 PM
I'm starting to think it has a lot to do with the ambient temperature that the bike operates in - the cooler it is, the less chance of a problem. The little slant eyed fellas live in a cooler climate, so didn't think about a heatsink, for those of us who don't........
Just a thought.
Also you guys in the snow belt don't ride as much ...............
Just a thought.
Also you guys in the snow belt don't ride as much ...............
#18
12-19-2009, 12:55 PM
Administrator - Retired
Every time I read posts about the R/R I get to thinking that mine is 16 years old and maybe I should think about replacing it before it bites me.
Also you guys in the snow belt don't ride as much ...............
But I should be OK because I have a heated jacket, right??
#19
12-20-2009, 04:33 AM
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thanks sprock. your plastic deserves to win this month. and that ****-hugging saddle of yours is quite a G-force fighter i would guess. it wouldn't go astray in an F35 Lightning, would it ? i hope this subject of R.R.s hasn't been covered to death but you can never have enough anecdotal talk about maintenance because everyone seems to have a different time of it. i just saw Malbojah's photo-rich story on clutch replacement and this is WONDERFUL work. i have to attempt this job next year and he has emboldened me to go through with it. this could save me $800 on labour and i am genuinely grateful to him. they're clear photos and i don't expect any surprises now in this largish job. i should tell him how useful this story is but he posted it 3 years ago and it's ancient history to him now.
on the RRs, i think Shadow is right and the root cause of failure is definitely overheating. (plus the heat-up/cool down curve which places so much stress on solid-state components). i worked in a tv station where the master control operators never turned off the computers because the heat coefficient curve would shorten their lives. (the machines, not the men) as a result, they had computers still running from a decade earlier. (indicating how chintzy the company was)
the southern hemisphere really only has two seasons. it never gets significantly cold here and everything overheats. the british cars of the 50s (when they still had an export market) used to have no chance here. i think sth africa would've been the same.
by the way, i now do NOT recommend the Electrosport RR. it arrived quickly (5 days) but the manufacture is not of a high quality. the 6-blade connector was rough and was merely glued on. the red/white blade (bottom left one) was not positioned correctly to mate with the 6-blade female connector block. it was at the same height as one of the yellow stator blades, when it should have been about 2mm lower. i had to bend the blade and use lithium grease to get it to slide onto the female side and tap with a hammer from the outside. christ almighty. it was the first time in my life i had to give in and take a hammer to delicate electronics. this was quite disappointing because i had expected yank engineering to be superlative but maybe it's a family business done in a backyard shed.
TimBucToo and Kilgoretrout, i strongly recommend you do this job before you lose your headlamps on a country road at midnight, in a sweeping curve, in the rain, at speed, going downhill, falling asleep.
it's easy, BUT replace that ignition switch as well. after the new RR was on, i found excessive charge across the black wire/positive pole circuit. instead of .2V, there's .55V, proving the ignition switch circuit has a partial short. it's fooling the RR into thinking the headlamps are drawing a higher load than they really are.
i haven't searched for a switch supplier (with or without the ignition key lock barrel) and may have to go to the dreaded local honda dealer. AUD70 for the part and possibly a 3 month wait while they nano-manufacture it in japan, to order. the japs have a new goldmine in this made-to-order business of theirs.
lastly, has anyone tried this new Google Chrome browser ? it's pretty lean and fast, with no frills. i had been using Mozilla Firefox because most of the viruses are written for Explorer and they bypass you when you're off Explorer. but this new one is quite good. i'd have to recommend it.
on the RRs, i think Shadow is right and the root cause of failure is definitely overheating. (plus the heat-up/cool down curve which places so much stress on solid-state components). i worked in a tv station where the master control operators never turned off the computers because the heat coefficient curve would shorten their lives. (the machines, not the men) as a result, they had computers still running from a decade earlier. (indicating how chintzy the company was)
the southern hemisphere really only has two seasons. it never gets significantly cold here and everything overheats. the british cars of the 50s (when they still had an export market) used to have no chance here. i think sth africa would've been the same.
by the way, i now do NOT recommend the Electrosport RR. it arrived quickly (5 days) but the manufacture is not of a high quality. the 6-blade connector was rough and was merely glued on. the red/white blade (bottom left one) was not positioned correctly to mate with the 6-blade female connector block. it was at the same height as one of the yellow stator blades, when it should have been about 2mm lower. i had to bend the blade and use lithium grease to get it to slide onto the female side and tap with a hammer from the outside. christ almighty. it was the first time in my life i had to give in and take a hammer to delicate electronics. this was quite disappointing because i had expected yank engineering to be superlative but maybe it's a family business done in a backyard shed.
TimBucToo and Kilgoretrout, i strongly recommend you do this job before you lose your headlamps on a country road at midnight, in a sweeping curve, in the rain, at speed, going downhill, falling asleep.
it's easy, BUT replace that ignition switch as well. after the new RR was on, i found excessive charge across the black wire/positive pole circuit. instead of .2V, there's .55V, proving the ignition switch circuit has a partial short. it's fooling the RR into thinking the headlamps are drawing a higher load than they really are.
i haven't searched for a switch supplier (with or without the ignition key lock barrel) and may have to go to the dreaded local honda dealer. AUD70 for the part and possibly a 3 month wait while they nano-manufacture it in japan, to order. the japs have a new goldmine in this made-to-order business of theirs.
lastly, has anyone tried this new Google Chrome browser ? it's pretty lean and fast, with no frills. i had been using Mozilla Firefox because most of the viruses are written for Explorer and they bypass you when you're off Explorer. but this new one is quite good. i'd have to recommend it.