Hi I am a new member :)
#1
Hi I am a new member :)
Hi, I am new here
https://cbrforum.com/forum/new-membe...6/#post1342635
Here is my new link post above and introduce my self. and pictures of my two Honda! CBR and Shadow
I have one or more problems? with my CBR 1000F / 87 I wish I get help here
After getting started after 14 years of standing still, I have finally got started, I bought the bike almost in a box
have taken the time to know which screw belongs where on the bike or what is missing!
The engine runs well at idle, but sounds a little disturbing at idle running!
As the engine does not get oil on all parts but the oil lamp is off so that bit is okay!
There is a slightly disturbing knocking sound but I think it gets quieter after the engine has been idling for a while
I only have it running 15 min max before carbourators start to popped out
Errors that occur
after a few minutes, the techometer stops working at idle running
The entire caburator part has popped out of its rubber holders 2 times
I can see small puffs coming from cylinder 2 & 3
What has been replaced on the engine side is
Oil,
Oil filter,
Air filter,
4 Spark plugs,
4 new original ignition cables,
CDI box used,
Fuel pump, new
Fuel pump relay new
I am expected to get 2 new ignition coils in a few days!
4 new rubber holders for carburators
Complete Original Keihin Carburetors Honda CBR 1000F - SC21
- ultrasonic cleaned
I can only hope it is done correctly, I have not opened carburators yet
$ 354 I pay for this maybe overpriced
Sincerley Tony
https://cbrforum.com/forum/new-membe...6/#post1342635
Here is my new link post above and introduce my self. and pictures of my two Honda! CBR and Shadow
I have one or more problems? with my CBR 1000F / 87 I wish I get help here
After getting started after 14 years of standing still, I have finally got started, I bought the bike almost in a box
have taken the time to know which screw belongs where on the bike or what is missing!
The engine runs well at idle, but sounds a little disturbing at idle running!
As the engine does not get oil on all parts but the oil lamp is off so that bit is okay!
There is a slightly disturbing knocking sound but I think it gets quieter after the engine has been idling for a while
I only have it running 15 min max before carbourators start to popped out
Errors that occur
after a few minutes, the techometer stops working at idle running
The entire caburator part has popped out of its rubber holders 2 times
I can see small puffs coming from cylinder 2 & 3
What has been replaced on the engine side is
Oil,
Oil filter,
Air filter,
4 Spark plugs,
4 new original ignition cables,
CDI box used,
Fuel pump, new
Fuel pump relay new
I am expected to get 2 new ignition coils in a few days!
4 new rubber holders for carburators
Complete Original Keihin Carburetors Honda CBR 1000F - SC21
- ultrasonic cleaned
I can only hope it is done correctly, I have not opened carburators yet
$ 354 I pay for this maybe overpriced
Sincerley Tony
Last edited by TonyR; 05-01-2021 at 05:34 AM.
#3
Looking good for sure. Nice job on the carburetors. Taking off the float bowls and the tops just for a visual inspection isn't going to hurt. Be aware there is a big spring under the tops that tries to push the top off as you remove screws. Taking the tops off just to make sure the rubber boot on the vacuum slides are properly seated and no leaks. As for the rubber boots that hold the carburetors to the cylinder head, I see you have new ones coming in which is good. I can't imagine how the carburetors could pop out if they are fully seated into them and the band clamps are tightened around them.
The carburetors need to be synchronized for optimum performance and operation. Prior to doing that, the valve clearances should be checked. The nice thing about that engine is that if the clearances are out of specification, they are adjustable. No need to remove the camshafts to swap out shims. Do you have the shop manual for your bike? That will describe the procedure in detail.
It appears that you're not planning on putting the factory airbox back on. Any particular reason for that? The airbox helps control and guide air into and through the carburetors.
The carburetors need to be synchronized for optimum performance and operation. Prior to doing that, the valve clearances should be checked. The nice thing about that engine is that if the clearances are out of specification, they are adjustable. No need to remove the camshafts to swap out shims. Do you have the shop manual for your bike? That will describe the procedure in detail.
It appears that you're not planning on putting the factory airbox back on. Any particular reason for that? The airbox helps control and guide air into and through the carburetors.
#4
Ty all for comments and help
I'm going to follow your tips regarding carburetors, it does not hurt and look so it looks right, Thank you!
I mount the factory airbox first but it was very tight and the rubber there was hard, so it was a hell of a job to get it on the caburator
and so I thought the repair on the airbox did not look okay much smeared with silicone solvde by previous owner!
So I bought loose filters instead as you can see, and thought to solve the problem air hoses later!
But if that is what factory airbox is required, then I have to solve factory airbox so it will be in place again!
I guess I have to hand it in at a honda workshop so the carbuorators get properly calibrated, but first i have to solve the carburators stay at the rubber holders and techometer is still running after 5 min idle running
It feels reassuring that it is loose shims without disassembling camshafts
I got this book Haynes Service & reapair
I'm going to follow your tips regarding carburetors, it does not hurt and look so it looks right, Thank you!
I mount the factory airbox first but it was very tight and the rubber there was hard, so it was a hell of a job to get it on the caburator
and so I thought the repair on the airbox did not look okay much smeared with silicone solvde by previous owner!
So I bought loose filters instead as you can see, and thought to solve the problem air hoses later!
But if that is what factory airbox is required, then I have to solve factory airbox so it will be in place again!
I guess I have to hand it in at a honda workshop so the carbuorators get properly calibrated, but first i have to solve the carburators stay at the rubber holders and techometer is still running after 5 min idle running
It feels reassuring that it is loose shims without disassembling camshafts
I got this book Haynes Service & reapair
Last edited by TonyR; 05-01-2021 at 09:51 AM.
#5
Tony, you clearly have mechanical skills and aptitude. Personally I think you would be better served by investing in a set of vacuum gauges and doing the valve adjustment followed by the carburetor synchronization yourself. I don't know how knowledgeable current Honda mechanics are going to be on a 1987 CBR1000F. Think of it as an investment in yourself. Knowledge is a powerful thing.
The following users liked this post:
TonyR (05-01-2021)
#6
Thank you for your kind words I am basically a Saab mechanic for several years!
But this is completely new for me!
I take your wise words and look up the instrument so I can measure myself, in the end I know it will be right!
I understand exactly what you mean by mechanic, I have to find the old school mechanic unfortunately hard to find, everything today is about looking at an instrument and lacking knowledge!
but there are certainly many talented people who are also interested in their job!
But my last worried is my tachommeter that stops working after 5 min Idle running
Mybe I have 100% bad luck when I purchased this used CDI box from a selle, that mybe have same problem what my old CDI Box have!
Or this CDI box was not the problem from the begining, the fault can also be somewhere in the electrical i am not sure where to begin in search!
But this is completely new for me!
I take your wise words and look up the instrument so I can measure myself, in the end I know it will be right!
I understand exactly what you mean by mechanic, I have to find the old school mechanic unfortunately hard to find, everything today is about looking at an instrument and lacking knowledge!
but there are certainly many talented people who are also interested in their job!
But my last worried is my tachommeter that stops working after 5 min Idle running
Mybe I have 100% bad luck when I purchased this used CDI box from a selle, that mybe have same problem what my old CDI Box have!
Or this CDI box was not the problem from the begining, the fault can also be somewhere in the electrical i am not sure where to begin in search!
#7
Google search for the Honda shop manual in PDF format for your specific year. It's out there somewhere. It's going to have information on how to check it's operation as well as the wiring diagram for possible lose connectors. There were some pretty significant changes to the 1000F over the years.
The following users liked this post:
TonyR (05-01-2021)
#9
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IDoDirt (05-01-2021)
#10
I found this for my CBR ty for tips IDoDirt
https://www.motea.com/en/synchrontes...000-f-255087-0
https://www.motea.com/en/synchrontes...000-f-255087-0
Something along these lines will work. You would need 4 individual valves, not 10 like here, but you get the idea.
The following users liked this post:
TonyR (05-01-2021)