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I have one or more problems? with my CBR 1000F / 87 I wish I get help here
After getting started after 14 years of standing still, I have finally got started, I bought the bike almost in a box
have taken the time to know which screw belongs where on the bike or what is missing!
The engine runs well at idle, but sounds a little disturbing at idle running!
As the engine does not get oil on all parts but the oil lamp is off so that bit is okay!
There is a slightly disturbing knocking sound but I think it gets quieter after the engine has been idling for a while
I only have it running 15 min max before carbourators start to popped out
Errors that occur
after a few minutes, the techometer stops working at idle running
The entire caburator part has popped out of its rubber holders 2 times
I can see small puffs coming from cylinder 2 & 3
What has been replaced on the engine side is
Oil,
Oil filter,
Air filter,
4 Spark plugs,
4 new original ignition cables,
CDI box used,
Fuel pump, new
Fuel pump relay new
I am expected to get 2 new ignition coils in a few days!
Looking good for sure. Nice job on the carburetors. Taking off the float bowls and the tops just for a visual inspection isn't going to hurt. Be aware there is a big spring under the tops that tries to push the top off as you remove screws. Taking the tops off just to make sure the rubber boot on the vacuum slides are properly seated and no leaks. As for the rubber boots that hold the carburetors to the cylinder head, I see you have new ones coming in which is good. I can't imagine how the carburetors could pop out if they are fully seated into them and the band clamps are tightened around them.
The carburetors need to be synchronized for optimum performance and operation. Prior to doing that, the valve clearances should be checked. The nice thing about that engine is that if the clearances are out of specification, they are adjustable. No need to remove the camshafts to swap out shims. Do you have the shop manual for your bike? That will describe the procedure in detail.
It appears that you're not planning on putting the factory airbox back on. Any particular reason for that? The airbox helps control and guide air into and through the carburetors.
I'm going to follow your tips regarding carburetors, it does not hurt and look so it looks right, Thank you!
I mount the factory airbox first but it was very tight and the rubber there was hard, so it was a hell of a job to get it on the caburator
and so I thought the repair on the airbox did not look okay much smeared with silicone solvde by previous owner!
So I bought loose filters instead as you can see, and thought to solve the problem air hoses later!
But if that is what factory airbox is required, then I have to solve factory airbox so it will be in place again!
I guess I have to hand it in at a honda workshop so the carbuorators get properly calibrated, but first i have to solve the carburators stay at the rubber holders and techometer is still running after 5 min idle running
It feels reassuring that it is loose shims without disassembling camshafts
I got this book Haynes Service & reapair
Tony, you clearly have mechanical skills and aptitude. Personally I think you would be better served by investing in a set of vacuum gauges and doing the valve adjustment followed by the carburetor synchronization yourself. I don't know how knowledgeable current Honda mechanics are going to be on a 1987 CBR1000F. Think of it as an investment in yourself. Knowledge is a powerful thing.
Thank you for your kind words I am basically a Saab mechanic for several years!
But this is completely new for me!
I take your wise words and look up the instrument so I can measure myself, in the end I know it will be right!
I understand exactly what you mean by mechanic, I have to find the old school mechanic unfortunately hard to find, everything today is about looking at an instrument and lacking knowledge!
but there are certainly many talented people who are also interested in their job!
But my last worried is my tachommeter that stops working after 5 min Idle running
Mybe I have 100% bad luck when I purchased this used CDI box from a selle, that mybe have same problem what my old CDI Box have!
Or this CDI box was not the problem from the begining, the fault can also be somewhere in the electrical i am not sure where to begin in search!
Google search for the Honda shop manual in PDF format for your specific year. It's out there somewhere. It's going to have information on how to check it's operation as well as the wiring diagram for possible lose connectors. There were some pretty significant changes to the 1000F over the years.
Now you're talking! Excellent find. I think that will work great. Hopefully the documentation will describe how to balance them to each other before you attempt to synchronize the carburetors. Basically the idea is that since each of the gauges is measuring a vacuum for each carburetor that is independent from the other carburetors, you have to do 2 things. Stabilize the the vacuum pulses that are presented to the gauge. That is done by inserting a tiny restriction in the hose that the gauge is attached to. The restriction reduces the pulsing effect that causes the dial needle to bounce back and forth wildly. The other thing that needs to be done is to get each gauge to read the same thing when connected to the same cylinder. If it doesn't come with some kind of valve in the line, then go to a store that sells fish aquarium supplies. The valves that control the air supply hoses will work.
Something along these lines will work. You would need 4 individual valves, not 10 like here, but you get the idea.
05-01-2021 | 05:03 AM
Hi I am a new member :)
