CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Fried connector - alternator - starter motor

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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 05:52 PM
  #1  
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Default Fried connector - alternator - starter motor

Hi all

F-L 1990 finally refused to start yesterday, after a period of poor starting when cold and NO starting when hot. So decided to have a look at the starter clutch.

Removed tank, carbs, airbox, no problems so far. But when I got to the alternator cover:
1. The three allen bolts are really really stiff - is this usual?
2. I couldn't separate the two parts of the red connector at the end oif the wire coming from the alternator cover. This is because they were MELTED together and when I did manage to prise them apart the insides weren't too pretty.

Is this due to repeated 30-second attempts to get her started? Or to repeated jump-starts from a car battery? Or to a bad R/R (have just got a new one)?

I'll probably bare all the wires and join them with separate connectors - like I have already done with the starter relay!

Is it worth my disassembling the starter motor to check the bushes? Is it possible to hook up the starter motor directly to a battery to see if it spins OK?

Thanks again all.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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A fused connector imo is indicative of a bad R/R and consequently a junk battery

I'd replace the connector , R/R & Battery first
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 07:55 AM
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+1
Then check the stator with a megger tester to ensure you're getting full power to the reg/rec and the coil resistances sre within spec.
If it's not, it probably means you have burnt wiring on one of the coils in the stator.
(ask me how I know this)
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 09:40 AM
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Thanks folks, have recently replaced R/R and battery, will have a look at the alternator now.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hmm
I couldn't separate the two parts of the red connector at the end oif the wire coming from the alternator cover. This is because they were MELTED together
When I read that, I wanted to barf!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Default Oil in generator cover - alternator stuck

I'm getting there slowly...

Took off the generator cover - is it OK if there's a bit of oil in there? The coils look OK, all pinky-beige, no obvious signs of being burnt out or am I missing something?

Now trying to remove the generator. I'm pulling the generator out and it looks like the starter clutch is coming out too - e.g. a big brass sprocket is coming out too. Is the generator supposed to come out with the shaft bare or with the sprockets etc on it?

I ask because something is stopping it coming all the way out - it was getting dark at this point and the groceries arrived so I shut up shop for the night.

Thanks all!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 06:04 PM
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This is what the alternator/damper/starter clutch looks like when removed.



You did bend the tab down and lift the alternator chain off the damper?

Cheers, SB
 

Last edited by Sebastionbear1; Jul 10, 2013 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Sebastionbear

You did bend the tab down and lift the alternator chain off the damper?

Cheers, SB
Thanks Seb.

Er, no, but that is probably because I'm stupid and am following the thread 'http://www.stu.co.nz/cbr1000fix/' in strict sequential order, even though I've read through it a few times!

So I didn't read the bit about the tab before I started to try to pull the generator out. (Like I didn't put the bike in gear before I started!)

When I pull the generator out now, it comes out with the big cog and the thing behind it (looks like a sealed bearing). The small cog and damper don't appear. If I push the generator back in and bend the tab down will the whole lot come out?

Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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Default Only 6 plates not 7 in the damper?

Got the alternator damper out.

It rotates smoothly on the alternator shaft. And the central shaft moves in and out 1 or 2mm. And there are only 6 metal plates plus the thick one under the springs. I thought there were supposed to be 7 plus one?

I'm going to fit a thick washer - should it go under the thick metal disc after the top three springs or should a fibre one go first?

Also I found two half-circle shims inside the damper case after I pulled the central shaft out. I presume these are not broken and fit around the thinnest part of the shaft?

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 02:04 AM
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I'm going to fit a thick washer - should it go under the thick metal disc after the top three springs or should a fibre one go first?


Fit the metal washer on top

Also I found two half-circle shims inside the damper case after I pulled the central shaft out. I presume these are not broken and fit around the thinnest part of the shaft?

Correct, they fit in a slot at the bottom of the shaft
 
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