Here are the split bushes , one I opened out to see the srength, other wise they are as came out of the forks.

 

Thanks for your pictures Mike. Unfortunately these are the 2 fork bushes (Upper & Lower) and nothing to do with the internals of the damper.

If you look at this attachment ...
Cartridge Fork Rebuilding 101
you will see the dis-assembly of a damper from a VFR, similar but not exactly the same as ours. Refer paragraph 4 onwards - dis-assembly of the damper cartridge. I'm after the same pictures - but of CBR1000F series 2.

 

Naga, another thing to check before you tear the damper apart is to ensure the lower damper body allen bolt (#10, pg 161) is secure and tight. This bolt holds the damper assembly (#12) to the bottom of the fork leg body, as well as centers the damper body in the bore of the fork leg, and the hydro-lock forcing cone (#14) that the damper sits inside. If this bolt is loose, it could allow the damper to move up and down slightly over bumps, causing the knocking noise.

As for tearing down the damper assembly, it's quite a simple system. There are two valve bodies in our forks, one fixed at the bottom of the damper tube (compression, #23) and the other fixed to the end of the rebound rod (#24) that is threaded into the fork cap. When you remove the assembly from the fork cap and pull the main spring, there should be a small circlip (#22) holding the compression valve stack in place from the bottom. You'll have to push up on the threaded body slightly, pull the wire circlip, and then gently knock the damper base out with the rebound rod. The rebound stack and rod will drop out from the bottom as well. There are 10mm nuts holding the circular valve shims in a stack against the face & ports of the valve body. Remove the allen bolt from the compression stack to remove the valve shims.

WARNING: Keep the shims in the order they are installed against the valve body. The act like a leaf spring on a car. The widest is against the valve face/ports, getting smaller as you go up the stack. At this time, you can choose to install an aftermarket valve shim stack to customize the compression and rebound dampening to your weight and riding style.

As a former motorcycle mechanic, I've had to rebuild many a fork. These are pretty easy. If you have a question, let me know and I'll share what experience I have.

 

Thanks Brian - Excellent explanation with references from a man who has done it all before. You also filled out the detail (about the shims etc ) for me that is missing from the W/shop manual. Much appreciated Brian!

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Hello, do you resolve problem? Mine cb1000 do the same clunk sound on rebound in left leg
i investigate it and found the problem is in the rebound rod, if i pull it, the clunk appear.