Engine oil - UK recomendations?
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Interesting discourse on oil.......
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
may answer your question, Timesarehard........................
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
may answer your question, Timesarehard........................
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
All about oils
This guy is an engineer. He breaks things down fairly well. Basically, C oils are for motors that use compression to start and run the motor and S is for spark motors. Diesels work on compression so they use oil rated CD or C something. Gas motors use spark to start and run the motor so they use SD or S something. As motor oil manufacturers go through the years, they upgrade the oils and the rating changes. SE, SF, SG, SH, etc. So, SE was replaced by SF, which was replaced by SG (no I oils) which was replaced by SH, etc. I believe we are now at SM here in the States.
Air cooled motors have a problem with heat so some oils are not good for them (SG seems to be the best for them, but SG is now obsolete, but I use it in my BMW and I use BMW oil so I am getting screwed because of the "fear factor!"). The new "energy saver" oils are not good for your motor because they are made to get maxium mpg out of a motor and they can cause clutch slipping.
It is a long article so grab a Jack D, Johnny W Black, Jimmy Black (a classic's drink I'm sure), Jagermister, Red Headed **** (God I love that name!), Zima (ladies take note) or whatever is your pleasure and read away. Here is the link http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Horsepower.html
Page down and look at the column on the left. The oil part will say, "All about oils." Click on that link and have fun reading.
My conclusion? Change the oil every 2,500 miles with a new filter and use a good multi-viscosity 20w-50 and call it a good day to ride....
P.S. I linked the horse power and torque page because some Harley riders might be reading. "Clydesdales have torque, Thoroughbreds have horsepower!" Which would you rather ride at the Derby?
Air cooled motors have a problem with heat so some oils are not good for them (SG seems to be the best for them, but SG is now obsolete, but I use it in my BMW and I use BMW oil so I am getting screwed because of the "fear factor!"). The new "energy saver" oils are not good for your motor because they are made to get maxium mpg out of a motor and they can cause clutch slipping.
It is a long article so grab a Jack D, Johnny W Black, Jimmy Black (a classic's drink I'm sure), Jagermister, Red Headed **** (God I love that name!), Zima (ladies take note) or whatever is your pleasure and read away. Here is the link http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Horsepower.html
Page down and look at the column on the left. The oil part will say, "All about oils." Click on that link and have fun reading.
My conclusion? Change the oil every 2,500 miles with a new filter and use a good multi-viscosity 20w-50 and call it a good day to ride....
P.S. I linked the horse power and torque page because some Harley riders might be reading. "Clydesdales have torque, Thoroughbreds have horsepower!" Which would you rather ride at the Derby?
Last edited by CBRriderNevada; 04-09-2009 at 02:03 AM.
#17
I use Motul 5100 ester10w40. $55.90 for 4 litres over here. Not sure if this stuff has changed much over the years but used Motul in my first CBR1000f from new (1987). Seven years-90 000 kms. No problems with oil. Did blow motor at 55 000 kms due to blocked jet in carb. Total piston melt down. When pulled apart rest of motor was imaculate. Did cam chain then as a matter of cause but it wasn't rattly at the time. This was when these things ate cam chains for lunch. I put it all down to using top quality oil.
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I use Motul 5100 ester10w40. $55.90 for 4 litres over here. Not sure if this stuff has changed much over the years but used Motul in my first CBR1000f from new (1987). Seven years-90 000 kms. No problems with oil. Did blow motor at 55 000 kms due to blocked jet in carb. Total piston melt down. When pulled apart rest of motor was imaculate. Did cam chain then as a matter of cause but it wasn't rattly at the time. This was when these things ate cam chains for lunch. I put it all down to using top quality oil.
I use the same oil except the 10w50 viscosity, for some reason ti helpss the motor run cooler in summer, and after changing the tensionner i had to put mineral 20w50, after not even 1000 kms i changed it again to Motul, i don,t know what this oli has, but the motor run smoother, the gearbox is smoother, gearshift change are easier, and the motor is quieter.
If i could i would drink motul myself so my body would run smoother !