Electrical Issue or something else???
#21
Took the battery in to test and it came back with good battery. Fully charged (of course since I charged it last night) and well above CCA the label on the battery says 220 and the report they gave me said 440. I don't know what that means. The guys at advance said it may be a short somewhere if the battery drains often but he does not know anything about motorcycle so I guess I check the R/R. Any other suggestion...please help I want to be able to ride it without worrying to carry jumper cable
#22
Yes WD40 is fine use it then clean it, secure the connector see if contacts of 30A fuse are okay not only the fuse but the connector that fuse is connect.
if you want to see if your RR is good try this high beam on bike running at 5k rpm multimeter and read volts in battery if is higher then 13.8v is okay.
if not remove the left fairing and you will have 2 connectors one is white with 3 yellow wires disconnect the connector put engine at 5 krpm you have to read AC volts not DC +- 40 to 70V in all 3 yellow wires. black wire of multimeter to the ground of bike and red wire of multimeter to yellow.
if the volts are okay then find the other connector is a white connector with 4 wires 2 greens and 2 reds disconect the connector and read DC Volts black wire of multimeter to greens and red wire of multimeter to red. at 5 krpm you will have 14v, if you have 14V DC at 5krpm RR is okay, if your yellow AC Volts fail your stator are burn.
Look if the 2 white connectors are okay sometimes they melt a little and star to make a bad connection.
if you want to see if your RR is good try this high beam on bike running at 5k rpm multimeter and read volts in battery if is higher then 13.8v is okay.
if not remove the left fairing and you will have 2 connectors one is white with 3 yellow wires disconnect the connector put engine at 5 krpm you have to read AC volts not DC +- 40 to 70V in all 3 yellow wires. black wire of multimeter to the ground of bike and red wire of multimeter to yellow.
if the volts are okay then find the other connector is a white connector with 4 wires 2 greens and 2 reds disconect the connector and read DC Volts black wire of multimeter to greens and red wire of multimeter to red. at 5 krpm you will have 14v, if you have 14V DC at 5krpm RR is okay, if your yellow AC Volts fail your stator are burn.
Look if the 2 white connectors are okay sometimes they melt a little and star to make a bad connection.
Back in the garage. I will do both test and update with results. Battery test from advance auto parts came back with "battery is good". Any pics of the connectors and how to connect them with the multimeter would be great as I'm not familiar with bikes or electricity testing. I just know how and barely use the multimeter
#23
Back in the garage. I will do both test and update with results. Battery test from advance auto parts came back with "battery is good". Any pics of the connectors and how to connect them with the multimeter would be great as I'm not familiar with bikes or electricity testing. I just know how and barely use the multimeter
see this video so you can learn what you have to check
This is the connector you have inside left fairing bellow the fuse box
Last edited by mikaspt; 07-18-2012 at 06:03 PM.
#24
i write a error in my test explanation, in 3 yellow test the black and red wires from multimeter are connect between yellow wires because AC dont have negative and positive so in my replay i type Put multimeter to AC Volts connecto blak wire from multimeter to ground " NO NOT TO GROUND CONNECT TO ONE OF THE YELLOW WIRE" and the red wire of multimeter to another yellow wire. if read at 5 Krpm +- 40 to 70 the stator is good.
#25
I will try to take pictures of connectors but only i can take it in weekend because i will have to remove my fairings etc.
see this video so you can learn what you have to check
http://youtu.be/p6GnwkCXPi4
This is the connector you have inside left fairing bellow the fuse box
see this video so you can learn what you have to check
http://youtu.be/p6GnwkCXPi4
This is the connector you have inside left fairing bellow the fuse box
Is this image a regulator/rectifier? If it's then It doesn't look like mine. Also my rectifier is located in the back so in the left side behind the battery I have to remove the taillight fairing. If its not the regulator then I'll take off the left cowl fairing.
#26
i write a error in my test explanation, in 3 yellow test the black and red wires from multimeter are connect between yellow wires because AC dont have negative and positive so in my replay i type Put multimeter to AC Volts connecto blak wire from multimeter to ground " NO NOT TO GROUND CONNECT TO ONE OF THE YELLOW WIRE" and the red wire of multimeter to another yellow wire. if read at 5 Krpm +- 40 to 70 the stator is good.
So I ran some test for the rectifier if it charges at 3k rpm. I don't think this is supposed to happen:
Based 12.3 high beam
Rev to 3k
After a min or 2 went up to 13
Rev to 4k
Increased to 13.3
Rev to 5k
Then drop to 12.5
Turned it off and now 12.6v
Second try
Base 12.6 high beam on
some hesitation to start, I gave it some gas and it started
Went turn the key on voltage drop to 12.1
@3k
12.3
@4k
12.3
@5k
12.3
Shut the engine off then base voltage was 12.1 but the radiator fan was running*
Turn off the ignition key then voltage *back to 12.5
Third try*
hesitation again
Gave it gas then it started
Base 12.1 high beam
@3k
12.1
@4k
12.1
@5k
12.1
Shut off*
Voltage 12.4
Fourth try
Switch on
Voltage 12
Click start button
Starter cylinoid Clicks as it tries to start voltage drops to 11.4 while this is happening
Give it gas voltage back to 12.1 and it started
Voltage after all this is 12.4V the report form advance auto part said battery was charged at 12.7v
#27
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Republic of Boon Island
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Let me relate an experience I had - I had an RR go bad on a bike with a pretty new
battery - it cooked that pretty new battery.
Only remedy was a new RR & a new MotoBatt, never been a problem since - 3 year ago
A bad RR will screw up a perfectly good battery - been there
battery - it cooked that pretty new battery.
Only remedy was a new RR & a new MotoBatt, never been a problem since - 3 year ago
A bad RR will screw up a perfectly good battery - been there
Last edited by Sprock; 07-18-2012 at 06:47 PM.
#28
Thanks Sprock! I'm sold with the rectifier being the culprit. Hopefully that's the problem and i will finally be able to drive it. I will check ebay for a rectifier. I just bought this bike from a friend and i'll i've done is work on it not really getting much excitement with it!!! Thanks all for your assistance and patience. I appreciate it.
#29
#30
Which of these rectifier do you recommend? 1990 Honda Hurricane 1000 CBR1000F Rectifiers / Regulators - BikeBandit.com