I've yet to find the thread explaining the de-linking process (I've probably over looked it 50 different times) but after looking over exactly how the brake system is hooked up and works I'm pretty sure I've figure out the process although I've not tried it yet (gonna wait till my new brakes get here and do it then unless someone tells me I'm wrong)
1. The first step would be removing the secondary master cylinder and using the bolt holes on it to fabricate a new bracket to hold the front left calipers in place. Should be a pretty simple bracket to mock up.
2. Then you would want to remove the top brake lines from both front calipers (the tops are the ones that control the center piston) and use a bolt to cap them. Make sure to hold on to the brake line bolts that go into the calipers, they could be put to use at a later time, one in the delinking process.
3. now remove the over sized brake line bolt from the rear master cylinder. This is where the regular length bolt comes in handy. Reinstall the rear brake line going to the rear brake using the regular length bolt.
4. The next thing to do is remove the rear brake line that goes into the bottom caliper (which controls the top and bottom piston), and then remove the brake line going into the top (controlling the center piston) and install it into the bottom caliper, then plug the hole for the center piston.
Now you could remove the brakes lines that ran back and forth for the linked system and remove the proportional control valve. You could drill thru the walls of the top and bottom piston of the caliper going into the center piston to have all 3 together, but I'm not certain on where in the wall to drill or how big of a hole you should drill. This way should have 2 pistons working on each caliper which is how I want to try it first just to see how it feels and then go from there. I'm not putting this up for other to just jump into and try, I can't find the thread with the exact instructions so I'm throwing up how it should work (in my head) to ask if this would be a correct way to de-link it. If it turns out I'm correct, then instructions on how to do it will be up towards the top for anyone that needs and others can throw in additional steps if I missed anything. Thank you in advance to anyone that throws in their 2 cent, it's appreciated more that you'll know

 

I just typed a butt load of stuff and lost it. S.O.A.B.

What I started out with is, if Sprock still wants to de-link his '93 we can do a 'How to' in a week or two. Me and my buddy Sprock that is.

I am ridding north tomorrow but will be home for the weakened. PM me with your number and best time to get a hold of you. I can clear some things up.

 

May be a plan the TBT have some time to burn down by year end which is June three O
for me.

another way is put 90 forks , calipers , rear 90 caliper & holder on it - jess sayin' as they
are cheap and in abundance on Ebay

Anyways Hill Billy

you need to fab brackets for the front caliper , find plugs for the unused extra ports
on the calipers and drill holes in the caliper casings for the middle caliper to be actuated
........ that's the summary version

Someday soon I expect a knock on my door and a Guy from NY will be here with custom
brackets and we'll shoot a write up of the whole process

 

I'm just curious, if you take the front master cylinder from say a '91 cbr1000f and use it would that make for a better braking feel in the lever? I know the pre-linked calipers only have 2 pistons so in my head it makes sense, but I'm not sure what the piston sizes are in either caliper so that could make a huge difference. This is me just brain storming and seeing what I can f***k up hahaha

 

Nah the fluid displacement is the same makes no difference imo

The whole idea with delinking is that it prevents the bike wanting
to stand up in turns as is what happens with DCBS.

DCBS is fine for touring and less spirited riding.

That means with delinked brakes you can trail brake in corners
and mess around a little more getting the rear to back/slide in
for a catapult shot back out of a hard ridden turn.

Sportrider illustrates it quite eloquently

http://www.sportrider.com/riding_tip...e/viewall.html

 

I've fitted a delink kit to my blackbird, it seems to be a very similar system. I bought it from jaws motorcycles in the uk. I will do more investigating

 

The only issue I had with delinking my brakes was soggy front brakes due to the piston size in the stock front brake master cylinder.

Thankfully Dean0 is the man and figured up that the front master cylinder from a CBR600F4 would put the ratios back to just about stock, fixed the soggy feeling and actually feels a little better than with the linked brakes and stock master cylinder.

 

Hi Guys,
I finished delinking my 1000 last week, same problem as Hillybilly, soggy front end, in the process of sourcing a new master cylinder,
I didn`t drill my calipers i made links from stainless banjos and silver soldered them.
rear is solid, barely any pedal movement and very little braking force, any ideas??? all calipers were fully overhauled and new seals

 

I love it.

I quite never understood linked brakes on a sports bike but heck people put ketchup on hotdogs lol.

went looking for an actual kit for de-link but could not find. I am assuming now it more of make you own right. Any preferred part numbers that should be used with my mkII here?

 

Hi Guy`s, sorry for digging up old ground but i`m in need of a formula that one of our members gave mefor working out the requirements for master cylinder to calliper ratio, I have lost it and need to revisit the issue, i know the gentleman involved was from the UK and worked as an ingersol rand engineer, if anyone can help i`d really appreciate it