Cylinder Head Removal
#22
Woo Hoo! So I got back from work today and picked up my cylinder head. Brian the friendly biker/engineer has done a great job on it and I can't wait to put it back on the engine.
Got to pick up a cylinder head gasket and a torque wrench tomorrow, then I'll get cracking and see if I can put it all back together. Was thinking of trying a tensioner mod AKA Dram but I don't think I've got the patience right now, I just want to get her running again, with or without rattles
Do I need to use a sealant on the cam cover gasket or will it be OK on it's own?
Also I can't find any trace of the exhaust sealing rings, I'm not sure it had any on at all, or would they be crushed into the exhaust ports on the head?
Was gonna' buy some new ones (exhaust sealing rings), 'cos they only cost pennies, what's best copper or aluminium?
Got to pick up a cylinder head gasket and a torque wrench tomorrow, then I'll get cracking and see if I can put it all back together. Was thinking of trying a tensioner mod AKA Dram but I don't think I've got the patience right now, I just want to get her running again, with or without rattles
Do I need to use a sealant on the cam cover gasket or will it be OK on it's own?
Also I can't find any trace of the exhaust sealing rings, I'm not sure it had any on at all, or would they be crushed into the exhaust ports on the head?
Was gonna' buy some new ones (exhaust sealing rings), 'cos they only cost pennies, what's best copper or aluminium?
#23
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rebel Cave in the Carolinas
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#25
YAY - Hawk's on his way back !
If you were closer, I'd give you a new head gasket..............................
Remember to use Copaslip on the threads when you put it back together (as if you'd ever forget)
Copper is better for the exhaust rings - IMO gives a better seal.
As Sprock says, tappet cover needs a sammich hehe. Coat separately and wait for about 40 mins before you make your sammich (sandwich). Ingrish puleeze hehe
Let us know how you get on.
If you were closer, I'd give you a new head gasket..............................
Remember to use Copaslip on the threads when you put it back together (as if you'd ever forget)
Copper is better for the exhaust rings - IMO gives a better seal.
As Sprock says, tappet cover needs a sammich hehe. Coat separately and wait for about 40 mins before you make your sammich (sandwich). Ingrish puleeze hehe
Let us know how you get on.
#26
#27
Well I got the head gasket, I got the silicone sealant, I even got the copper exhaust gaskets, but buggery bollocks no one has a torque wrench with the correct range and the one that was closest to what I need is £141 + tax.
So bollocks to that, I've ordered one from Machine Mart, may take up to 7 days delivery, but what the hell, I'm not doing this without a torque wrench. I am however running out of patience
OK rant over
So bollocks to that, I've ordered one from Machine Mart, may take up to 7 days delivery, but what the hell, I'm not doing this without a torque wrench. I am however running out of patience
OK rant over
#28
I got the bike when it was running on three. The guy I bought it from said no its perfect I said no its not. Funnily enough I have spent since my childhood working on engines so know what I'm talking about.
Anyway he wanted 800 for it that was with 9 months mot and 3 months tax. I got it for 400 quid, cashed in the tax then fixed it. I couldn't get insured on it.
It was cheaper for me to insure a Hayabusa or a brand new CBR1000. yeah ridiculous. Eventually the mrs managed to sort it out by shouting at people on the phone.
Anyway back to the story. I got a load of receipts with the bike from new cam chains, tyres to a 3 day before I got it carb balance which cost him £120. 120 quid to balance carbs lol
Anyway got it home done a compression test cold the next morning, 0, 150, 155, 150 PSI.
Rocker cover off, couldn't see anything as it was the exhaust side under the frame etc, head off then saw it.
Taking the head off highlighted all sorts of delights suck as broken fasteners, copper washers used under the headbolts etc.
Basically the rocker guide plate had somehow been violently bent, this in turn was pressing on the vale spring cap thus holding the valve open. This of course meant the valve was free to float about, thankfully the collets are softer than the valve. Also since combustion have never occurred there was no damage to the valve or its seat, it all checked out nicely.
So basically head ripped apart quick rebuild, new follower guide plate and collets, head gasket, proper headbolt washers blah blah slapped back together, engine started first crank (only once did I have an engine not start first attempt I was mortified, turned out I left the coil disconnected, the customer started to doubt me, when it did fire we had an impressive bang and flame from the exhaust). Running on all 4 and with a synch it was smooth. Compression test revealed the difference between the lowest and highest cylinder was 5 PSI. Perfect.
Then got out used it, done another compression check the other day and they were according to my bit of paper here 160, 165, 160 and 165. Thats 3k later which has taken me just over a month.
I'm still puzzled as to how the plate got bent. The cam is undamaged, the follower is undamaged, the head had no signs of being dropped on a previous removal, no evidence anywhere in the engine as to how it happened.
The force to bend it would have destroyed anything in the delicate little engine. Strange one.
#29
#30
Sounds like the tappet cover had been bashed and replaced but no one saw the damage underneath. Maybe the engine's been out and fell over.....? If there were copper washers on the headbolts that's a dead giveaway. Cobbled back together for sale....I'd say, because they couldn't get it to run right.
Anyway, you found it and all's good now
And yes TK, nothing worse than electrical gremlins................
We've all had them from time to time
Anyway, you found it and all's good now
And yes TK, nothing worse than electrical gremlins................
We've all had them from time to time