Youre right about the bolt in the secondary master cylinder that has to be loosened to bleed the rear brake. Guess i can afford $35 to try the Mighty Vac. After studying how many different directions the brake fluid travles and through so many different lines, i can see where conventional pump bleeding may not work on these bikes.

I see where some people dont like linked braking and I can certainly understand why, but Im not an aggressive rider and I just want them to work properly. Its pretty neat when i use the rear brake and the nose dives. I have another bike with regular brakes and I sometimes forget about the linked brakes until I get reminded by a nose dive. Of course, I primarily use front brakes under normal riding.

Is there any way I can check the front brake engaging the rear brake?

 

Yes, there is. Look at the pic, attach the 12mm key and press it downwards while spinning the rear wheel.

[IMG]local://upfiles/6357/65C3F8AB27C847019922F4A70FC18866.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thank you MikeKop!!! I will give that a try when I get home from work today. See the allen wrench head at the bottom of this arm? By the front fork? I took my hand and could feel a little looseness there, but when i put my allen head wrench on it, it was tight. I wonder if there is a bushing that should be there.

 

Hi bicklebok

If you are talking about Workshop Manual Page 13/6 part 4 then this is a torqued bolt. see page 21-15 for settings. (The bolt will be tight but the brake part will be free.)

 

Naga Thai,
Thats the bolt Im referring to. Seems to be tight, but there is play at that conncection. I can wiggle it a little and hear metal on metal.

 

I tried using the wrench on the front caliper to actuate the rear brake and verified the front brake is not engaging the rear brake. I will use the Mighty Vac and bleed it this weekend and see if it resolves all these problems. If that doesnt work, I guess one of the master cylinders is bad.
As always, thank you for all the support everyone!!!

 

Ok, I bled my brakes per the manual using a brake bleeder, but Im still having the same problems I originally posted. When i firstpress thebrake pedal, I can hear the secondary master cylinder making a noise. Im wondering what are the symptoms of it being faulty? Being I have 2 different problems with both front and back brake, Im wondering if it is the secondary master cylinder.

 

Any suggestions anyone? Also, does the secondary master cylinder have an adjustment I can try first?

 

Guys, Im getting desperate. I was hoping to order one of the master cylinder kits and have it by this weekend. Rear brake cylinder or secondary? Any opinions?

 

Let's start here, the front lever and brakes are separate form the rear hydraulically. As stated before, when the left front caliper grips the rotating front disk when the lever is pulled, the secondary master cylinder sends fluid to the rear caliper.

To bleed the rear break system (notice I did not say rear caliper), you need to push the fluid all the way through the entire system. When you do the proper bleeding, you will need to fill the rear reservoir a few times to make up for what you have pushed through the entire system. There are lines running from the rear caliper to the front passing through the proportional valve and rubber hoses as well as the smaller steel lines. Then there is the secondary master cylinder itself. I firmly believe that the rear system still has air in it. If the air travels to the highest point, the air would be under the saddle in the proportional valve. You will need to flush this air out.

There may also be air in the front calipers in the center pistons.
To get this air out you need to pump the rear pedal as you open the lower bleeders up front. You will need to do this to get the air out of the rest of the system also.

These LBS can be a bitch to bleed but you will can do it.

Edit: Don't forget to open the orifice on the secondary master cylinder so that fluid can flow from the rear to the front calipers.