I'd be inclined to look at the starter switch, kill switch and the solenoid as problems, as Sprock says. It's probably a bad connection there.

 

Hope everyone had a great christmas! I've been messing around with the start and kill switches, and I removed the right handlebar grip and switch assembly. When I wiggle the actual start button my headlight comes on and off . I need a new start button switch for sure, but I was wondering if anyone knows which wires I could jump to see if this is indeed my no spark problem. I would like to jump the switch entirely to find out if this is my issue, then I can start to put some new parts up there and I can start on the normal reviving steps.

Thanks - have a great new years!!!

 

I assume that the headlight should come on as soon as you turn the key to on. Is this correct???

 

It does on my 87.

 

Correct & check out your ignition switch and wiring thoroughly

 

The starter switch only works the starter solenoid. I would think you would have spark whether the starter switch works or not. I don't need to hold the starter switch when the bike is running.

The starer switch does however cut the headlamp to provide all power to the starter and coils.

I would think even so, you would get a weak spark. Have you tried putting the bike on center stand and trying to start it with side stand in the up position? Also side stand up and clutch lever in?

 

It's a MK1 TBT (88)- no sidestand switch - clutch switch tho' is a possibility !

 

^ You get what I'm saying...bump starting it would run w/bad starter switch.

I'd be looking at the hot wire coming off the solenoid and at the wires coming from the pulse generator.

When I first go my bike it would haul off and die while going down the road at any speed when I hit any little bump. As it died, I heard the ignition control module rattling in the tail plastic. It did it a few times until I Ty-raped it in place. It would unplug just enough to kill the bike. Perhaps something like that.

 

ok

Let use steps here, make yourself a tick list it is going to be easier:

-battery: juice ? yes.

-Does the starter cranks the engine when pushing on the starter button?

- front light is behaving correctly when starting yes.

Stupid question, do you pull in the clutch lever when cranking and check where the senson connect on the lever sometime it gets a bit loose and will not allow the engine to start.

I will follow this one closely as I have time, too bad I am not closer, it would be fun to get this one going.

One last thing, if it has not been started for a long time, it may take a lot of cranking and you battery will deplet its charge very quickly resulting in a weak spark, you might want to boost the thing, That is what I do when starting for the first time after winter.

Keep us posted.


Carl

 

Shady

Just going back a little in this thread #18 you mention the leads to the coils and the bright and not so bright test light.
These coils have 2 leads each one is power the other is signal from the spark unit the coils fire both spark plugs each revolution so that the plug on #4 will fire at the top of its exhaust stroke while #1 is firing on power stroke same with #3 & #4 this is pretty common in motorcycle ignition systems as it does away with the complexity of a half engine speed distributor for spark (each cylinder fires every stroke rather than every second stroke).
If you are checking the presence of spark you should make sure that all plugs on each coil are properly grounded as the spark units dont like open circuits on the secondary side of the coil.