Clutch bleeding question
#11
RE: Clutch bleeding question
New update:
Went out tonight and started looking at the clutch. The master cylinder (which I rebuilt) is making a creaking noise when I pull it in. I am thinking that I did not assemble something correctly if it is making a creaking noise. That may be allowing air to leak by.
Tom
Went out tonight and started looking at the clutch. The master cylinder (which I rebuilt) is making a creaking noise when I pull it in. I am thinking that I did not assemble something correctly if it is making a creaking noise. That may be allowing air to leak by.
Tom
#12
RE: Clutch bleeding question
The thing is, air shouldn't cause that problem, it's not physically possible. Now, the master cyclinder not releasing completely, that can cause it. The only thing air would do is cause a spongy lever and make it hard to engage 1st and shift. Also, enough air and it won't go into gear at all. Hold the clutch open, no, something else is at fault.
#13
RE: Clutch bleeding question
ORIGINAL: dad
Almost assuredly a lack of free play between the clutch lever and master piston in the extended/applied position. That captures fluid in the system not allowing it to return to the reservoir. It will pull some past the seal cup during bleeding and operation as that seal acts as a one way, pressure assisted seal. When the lever or some other component stops it from returning all of the way, passing the pick-up/return port in the base of the reservoir, it captures fluid in the system and keeps the clutch partially disengaged, getting worse with use and heat. Good luck.
Almost assuredly a lack of free play between the clutch lever and master piston in the extended/applied position. That captures fluid in the system not allowing it to return to the reservoir. It will pull some past the seal cup during bleeding and operation as that seal acts as a one way, pressure assisted seal. When the lever or some other component stops it from returning all of the way, passing the pick-up/return port in the base of the reservoir, it captures fluid in the system and keeps the clutch partially disengaged, getting worse with use and heat. Good luck.
If you remove the lever pivot bolt and find that you have to push in on the master cylinder to get it back together, actually pushing the piston in slightly, then the problem is in that external assembly. If there is no travel of the piston required in those external parts to get the pivot bolt in, then look internally. Good luck.
#14
#15
RE: Clutch bleeding question
Ok...I think that the lower slave cylinder is what is bad. I looked at the Chiltons manual, and it looks easy to replace.
I can't find the parts online. Anyone know where the part numbers are for the clutch slave unit or have a link to the fiche? (Looked on ronayers.com)
I can't find the parts online. Anyone know where the part numbers are for the clutch slave unit or have a link to the fiche? (Looked on ronayers.com)
#18
RE: Clutch bleeding question
I can't think of one symptom you described that points to the slave cylinder. I already posted where I believe the problem is. Possibly something assembled wrong in the master but more likely something in the handle or pivots that is not allowing the master to return fully. If you look there you will find your problem. There is supposed to be a small amount of linear play between the release rod and the master piston. That assures that the master piston has returned fully. I can't think of any other way of describing this.
Look at a blow-up and make sure you understand fully how that system functions. Including how it picks up fluid from the reservoir, how it pressurizes the fluid in the system to drive the slave cylinder, and why a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting. If you understand those functions, you'll also understand the reason why I say what I say... and insist on that being the problem. This is the third time.
Look at a blow-up and make sure you understand fully how that system functions. Including how it picks up fluid from the reservoir, how it pressurizes the fluid in the system to drive the slave cylinder, and why a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting. If you understand those functions, you'll also understand the reason why I say what I say... and insist on that being the problem. This is the third time.
#19
RE: Clutch bleeding question
I agree with dad. Something is not allowing the pressure to dissapate back into the Master Cylinder. If it was doing the same thing with the old Master Cylinder as it is with the new, then you might want to replace the rubber hoses. I've seen those go bad and the inner portion will collapse blocking the fluid from returning.
#20
RE: Clutch bleeding question
ORIGINAL: Stray Cat
I agree with dad. Something is not allowing the pressure to dissapate back into the Master Cylinder. If it was doing the same thing with the old Master Cylinder as it is with the new, then you might want to replace the rubber hoses. I've seen those go bad and the inner portion will collapse blocking the fluid from returning.
I agree with dad. Something is not allowing the pressure to dissapate back into the Master Cylinder. If it was doing the same thing with the old Master Cylinder as it is with the new, then you might want to replace the rubber hoses. I've seen those go bad and the inner portion will collapse blocking the fluid from returning.
Make sure to have sufficient towels to capture and/or water to flush any spilled fluid. It will damage paint.