cbr1000f alternator chain replacement
#1
cbr1000f alternator chain replacement
Hi All,
I am about to take my engine out to replace my alternator chain and tensioner, I can't stand the rattle on tickover and low revs.
After the engine is out, I am planning to take the cams out but leave the head and cylinders in place, flip it upside down and split the cases. Hopefully, then undo the end caps of con rods to release the crank.
Has anyone done the alternator chain replacement this way, `?````I am attempting avoid disrupting the top end.
Also any advise,
cheers
I am about to take my engine out to replace my alternator chain and tensioner, I can't stand the rattle on tickover and low revs.
After the engine is out, I am planning to take the cams out but leave the head and cylinders in place, flip it upside down and split the cases. Hopefully, then undo the end caps of con rods to release the crank.
Has anyone done the alternator chain replacement this way, `?````I am attempting avoid disrupting the top end.
Also any advise,
cheers
#2
I wish I could tell you, although I am having my mechanic do just that same job. I am replacing the generator chain, guide and the CT. It took me good couple of weeks to gather all the gaskets and O-ring seals needed to have this work done. All parts were Original Honda NOS (new old stock). I gathered the parts from Germany, England and USA.
Last edited by Red Baron; 07-15-2019 at 10:44 PM.
#4
So my cbr1000f has a new alternator chain tensioner installed - fitted by removing the lower crankcase only ( with the engine upside down)
This avoids disrupting the cylinder head and barrels. The valve timing is unaffected. The old tensioner has worn out the notches on the ratchet rod, the spring was putting tension on the chain , but the ratchet would not hold the chain tight.
Now I have a rattle free tickover - in fact I can hear a noisy bearing in the alternator now !!!!!!
This avoids disrupting the cylinder head and barrels. The valve timing is unaffected. The old tensioner has worn out the notches on the ratchet rod, the spring was putting tension on the chain , but the ratchet would not hold the chain tight.
Now I have a rattle free tickover - in fact I can hear a noisy bearing in the alternator now !!!!!!
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Martin Kysely (11-21-2022)
#7
CBR 1000F 1988 Alternator chain tensioner replacement.
How to as requested by wooferdog
1. Remove engine from frame remove water pump.
2. While it is upright , remove 3 crankcase bolts on the upper crankcase.
3. Turn engine upside down
4. Remove sump .
5. Remove 30 crankcase bolts, You will need a manual as some bolts are hidden
6. Remove oil pump pipes and oil pump sprocket followed by the pump itself
7. Separate crankcase halves
8. Alternator chain tensioner can now be removed - 3 bolts.
9. Install new tensioner - don't forget to remove the ratchet pin - now your alternator chain is tensioned.
10. All you need to do now is put it all back together!
This guide makes it seem easier than it is. The engine is very heavy, I found the hardest part was putting the engine back in the frame.
If your alternator chain is stretched however, you will have to disassemble the engine completely and remove the crankshaft.
I also put a new starter damper at the same time, which is another hard to get at component.
best of luck if you are considering this task !!!
How to as requested by wooferdog
1. Remove engine from frame remove water pump.
2. While it is upright , remove 3 crankcase bolts on the upper crankcase.
3. Turn engine upside down
4. Remove sump .
5. Remove 30 crankcase bolts, You will need a manual as some bolts are hidden
6. Remove oil pump pipes and oil pump sprocket followed by the pump itself
7. Separate crankcase halves
8. Alternator chain tensioner can now be removed - 3 bolts.
9. Install new tensioner - don't forget to remove the ratchet pin - now your alternator chain is tensioned.
10. All you need to do now is put it all back together!
This guide makes it seem easier than it is. The engine is very heavy, I found the hardest part was putting the engine back in the frame.
If your alternator chain is stretched however, you will have to disassemble the engine completely and remove the crankshaft.
I also put a new starter damper at the same time, which is another hard to get at component.
best of luck if you are considering this task !!!
#8
So my cbr1000f has a new alternator chain tensioner installed - fitted by removing the lower crankcase only ( with the engine upside down)
This avoids disrupting the cylinder head and barrels. The valve timing is unaffected. The old tensioner has worn out the notches on the ratchet rod, the spring was putting tension on the chain , but the ratchet would not hold the chain tight.
Now I have a rattle free tickover - in fact I can hear a noisy bearing in the alternator now !!!!!!
This avoids disrupting the cylinder head and barrels. The valve timing is unaffected. The old tensioner has worn out the notches on the ratchet rod, the spring was putting tension on the chain , but the ratchet would not hold the chain tight.
Now I have a rattle free tickover - in fact I can hear a noisy bearing in the alternator now !!!!!!
#9
I had the chain tensioner replacement job done this summer. I found out that the gaskets on the cbr1000 f sc21 are the same as on the cb1000. Purchased for 50 euros. The engine low gasket kit is no longer for sale. The complete cbr1000f emery kit costs 150 euros. The chain tensioner costs 130 euros plus shipping. Before closing the engine, remember to phase the crankshaft with the reference notches on the pickup, check the hole of the alternator lubrication shaft with that of the ratchet, pay attention to the gearbox bearing fit and the position of the abutment for lubrication, phase the balancer with the reference notch, insert the three forks of the gear selector and reassemble everything. Use only gearbox sealants, not other silicone pastes or motorsil. Seven videos of the work are available on youtube. Greetings from Italy