Well folks, after having got my 90 back on the road 2 months back, I have been enjoying her immensely. However, I had a new one back in 90 when I first got out of the Navy. I traded my 87 600 Hurricane for the 90. I distinctly remember my old 90 1000F getting better than the 34mpg that I have been getting for the past month.

Pete probably remembers my scrambling to find a reg/rectifier to get her running and my Rube Goldberg flasher module fix.

So, I dusted off my old box of jets from when I was a Honda mechanic back in college (early 90's). I found several sets of jets that fit. The jets I pulled out of her were 122s and the plugs indicated that she was running a bit rich. I installed a complete set of 120s and a new set of needles. I put the carbs back on her and took her out for a ride. My midrange is better and response is better, but the idle is way too high.

So, I went back to the garagepulled theseat and tank off and pulled out my stix to synchronize them. For some reason, I am not getting any reading on #1. But it is clearly drawing fuel since it dies when I pull the #1 plug wire. And I still cannot get the idle to drop below 3k.

So, I did the next logical thing: I pulled the carbs back off and put the 122s back in. It still won't idle below 3k.

At this point I am ready to run over the damn thing with my truck. I know that I adjusted some of the synchronization screws when the 120s were still in, but I am unsure how to get it back the way it was without the styx working correctly. While I had the carbs off last time, I blew compressed air back through the test vacuum port that you hook the styx up to so that I was sure there were not any obstructions.

Anyone have any idea why I might not be getting a reading on #1 with the vacuum gauge?

Before anyone asks: yes, I did cap the vacuum line that goes to the petcock and yes, I did swap the vacuum lines between #1 and #2 on the styx to make sure the problem was the #1 carb and not the styx.

I am beginning to pull out what little hairI have left.

Also, my service manual doesn't show which way to turn the sync screws to close the butterfly vs. open it. The manual I have says to reference something in chapter 2 of the common service manual. Isn't there a pdf file of the common service manual floating around this forum somewhere? Can someone refresh my memory?

I miss her and want to fix her.

Thanks.

 

Oh joy! How I love carbies [:@]. Anyway, after spending three days on mine & still having trouble from bad fuel residue etc you can get a static balance with the carbies off. All I do is adjust the syncro screws so that the butterflies are all at the same position relative to one of the small holes inside the carburetter throat. It tends to be pretty close to spot on.
If memory serves me correctly turn the screw down will open the butterfly.
Shadow has the link for the manual. Check out some of the new member posts from about 1 or 2 months ago in this section. You will surely find the link there. Good luck

 

Shadows links since he hasn't posted yet


Try these http://members.iinet.net.au/~cbr/Hon...ice_Manual.pdfOR http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/midlife/i...ice_Manual.pdf and for the Haynes Manual in GIF format for 87-96 http://blackbears.ru/index_en.php?get=manual EARLY CBR600 & 1000f http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

 

First off, I am sorry you are having a challenge, but that's the funniest thing I have read in a long time. I have had some recent problems and I know how frustrating in can be, these guys will be able to help.

Good luck with it.

 

Thanks for stepping in Tobiahr, I have to sleep sometime..............

Sounds like the choke could be stuck - I take it you've adjusted the idle screw down ?
Maybe a cabling problem, something pulling on throttle cables ?

No idea why #1 isn't registering - blockage of some kind ?

 

Perhaps whatever nipple you are sticking the hose to on the #1 cylinder isn't in fact a vacuum port or it is blocked for whatever reason. And perhaps the reason you are idling so high is that you inadvertently disconnected/cracked a vacuum line while you were removing/installing the carbs and now have an air leak. While its idling, spray some carburetor around all the carb joints and vacuum lines around the carburetors (but not in the carburetors). Sometimes if you have a vacuum leak, the carb cleaner will seep through the leak, into the combustion chamber, and cause the idle speed to raise even higher. If you hear this, then you've found a leak.

 

Maybe a split carb diaphram on No1? Hmm, would that cause it??

How about tight valve clearances? These should be checked before attempting to balance. But even with tight valves you should expect some reading.

Can you check your compression to see if No1 is down?

 

Well, after making this post yesterday, I had acup or coffeeand calmed down a little bit. I went back to the garage and started making small adjustments to the 3 adjustment screws. After 45 maddening minutes of making minor adjustments, I was able to get the idle back down to around 1500. They still are not balanced.

As for the vacuum line, someone suggested I might not be on the correct nipple. I am. I do have the factory service manual. I also used to do this sort of thing for a living. Albeit 15 years ago. You don't forget THAT much.

And yes Pete, prior to putting the carbs back on the bike after putting the 122s back in, I backed the idle adjust all the way to where I had a 1/16 of an inch clearance between the top of the adjuster and the throttle block. I wanted to ensure that wasn't it early on.

I did hook up a vacuum gauge to the #1 nipple and got a reading. But it is far lower than the other 3. Odd. If I can find a good diagram of the internal passageways of the carbs, I wanted to see if the vacuum connection on the side of the #1 carb (the one that attaches to the petcock) comes from the same source as that top connection. Later on this week (because I am going to ride the beast today), I plan to attach the same vacuum gauge to all 4 carbs at the top and the side connection on #1 to see if the range is the same. If so, I may purchase 4 identical vacuum gauges and take a stab at synchronizing them that way. I am not satisfied that this new non-mercury stix kit is working correctly.

And thank you Bluebeard. You are the only one who actually answered my question. I'll let you all know if it works.

 

Well excuse me all over the place for trying to help! [:@]

 

S'OK - we'll just go down in the garden and eat worms ![&:]