Carb Sync questions
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Deltona, Fl
Carb Sync questions
I have all the pdf's and even the paper shop manuals, and I can see the carb nipples to hook my gauges to, but I have no idea how to get to the nipples to get the hoses on. There is no way I can get my hand in there, I have even removed the side fairings, and I still can’t figure how to get to them. I tried removing the air box to try and get under the carbs, but I can't get it out of the way either. I have the right side of the air box cover removed. But see no way to get the left side off or to clear the frame.
What is the magic method to get under the carbs to connect my hoses? How do you get the air box out? Do I have to remove the carbs to connect the hoses and then reinstall them?
1993 Honda 1000F-P USA model.
Thanks for any help
James
What is the magic method to get under the carbs to connect my hoses? How do you get the air box out? Do I have to remove the carbs to connect the hoses and then reinstall them?
1993 Honda 1000F-P USA model.
Thanks for any help
James
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 902
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From: Cape Cod, MA
RE: Carb Sync questions
I removed the carbs when I did the sync on my bike. There are two bolts that hold the airbox in place. Remove them,pull the airbox back, unscrew the carbs and they should pop right ouw I also ran some longer hoses to behind the tank that I could hookup for the next time
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Member
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Deltona, Fl
RE: Carb Sync questions
Ok, so I do remove the carbs, to connect the vacuum lines.
Should I leave the lines connected and just tuck them in, or will the lines being connected cause problems.. I.e. vacuum leaks etc.
Also anything else I should be doing while I am this far inside the bike?
I am having a problem with a burble in the low range of the bike, above about 3k it stops, below that the burble comes back and it idles rough, and dies alot. Problem started after sitting in the garage for about 4 months unridden, due to elbow surgery. I’m finally cleared to ride again
Should I dump the bowls since I am there? Or will they flush on their own with use?
Also changed plugs, and oil and filter. Plugs were a little carbon dirty, but not really bad, #1 was the worst the others were decent.
Should I leave the lines connected and just tuck them in, or will the lines being connected cause problems.. I.e. vacuum leaks etc.
Also anything else I should be doing while I am this far inside the bike?
I am having a problem with a burble in the low range of the bike, above about 3k it stops, below that the burble comes back and it idles rough, and dies alot. Problem started after sitting in the garage for about 4 months unridden, due to elbow surgery. I’m finally cleared to ride again
Should I dump the bowls since I am there? Or will they flush on their own with use?
Also changed plugs, and oil and filter. Plugs were a little carbon dirty, but not really bad, #1 was the worst the others were decent.
Redcoat, & Maxwell's Silver Hammer, MVN and curmudgeon
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 5
From: Mud hut, Zululand
RE: Carb Sync questions
Vacuum nipples UNDERNEATH the carbs ??
Not on my bike !
Vacuum nipples are on TOP, and have small black rubber covers over them.
I didn't know the 93 carbs were that different to my 90 model ?
There are previous posts on this balancing issue, too.
Not on my bike !
Vacuum nipples are on TOP, and have small black rubber covers over them.
I didn't know the 93 carbs were that different to my 90 model ?
There are previous posts on this balancing issue, too.
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 224
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From: San Jose, CA.
RE: Carb Sync questions
Yep, Pete you've got it easy on your bike.
On the 93 (and onward I would guess) the vacuum ports are on the underside of the carbs, but the carbs need not be removed to access them. The toughest one is cylinder #2 and I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull the rubber cap off and also to slip the vacuum hose going to the carb synch tool onto the port. It's definitely not the easiest thing in the world to do, but better than yanking the carbs off. Cylinder #4 is actually a 5mm screw. I replaced the screw with a factory vacuum port (same as on the other three cylinders). I also replaced the three rubber port covers, the old ones on my bike were cooked rather crispy! Cylinder #1 port supplies the vacuum to the petcock, so it doesn't have a rubber boot.
Give it a try with some long pliers and some patience and you'll get it without having to take your bike all apart!
On the 93 (and onward I would guess) the vacuum ports are on the underside of the carbs, but the carbs need not be removed to access them. The toughest one is cylinder #2 and I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull the rubber cap off and also to slip the vacuum hose going to the carb synch tool onto the port. It's definitely not the easiest thing in the world to do, but better than yanking the carbs off. Cylinder #4 is actually a 5mm screw. I replaced the screw with a factory vacuum port (same as on the other three cylinders). I also replaced the three rubber port covers, the old ones on my bike were cooked rather crispy! Cylinder #1 port supplies the vacuum to the petcock, so it doesn't have a rubber boot. Give it a try with some long pliers and some patience and you'll get it without having to take your bike all apart!
Joined: Jun 2006
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From:
RE: Carb Sync questions
ORIGINAL: tallenuf
Yep, Pete you've got it easy on your bike. On the 93 (and onward I would guess) the vacuum ports are on the underside of the carbs, but the carbs need not be removed to access them. The toughest one is cylinder #2 and I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull the rubber cap off and also to slip the vacuum hose going to the carb synch tool onto the port. It's definitely not the easiest thing in the world to do, but better than yanking the carbs off. Cylinder #4 is actually a 5mm screw. I replaced the screw with a factory vacuum port (same as on the other three cylinders). I also replaced the three rubber port covers, the old ones on my bike were cooked rather crispy! Cylinder #1 port supplies the vacuum to the petcock, so it doesn't have a rubber boot.
Give it a try with some long pliers and some patience and you'll get it without having to take your bike all apart!
Yep, Pete you've got it easy on your bike.
On the 93 (and onward I would guess) the vacuum ports are on the underside of the carbs, but the carbs need not be removed to access them. The toughest one is cylinder #2 and I used a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull the rubber cap off and also to slip the vacuum hose going to the carb synch tool onto the port. It's definitely not the easiest thing in the world to do, but better than yanking the carbs off. Cylinder #4 is actually a 5mm screw. I replaced the screw with a factory vacuum port (same as on the other three cylinders). I also replaced the three rubber port covers, the old ones on my bike were cooked rather crispy! Cylinder #1 port supplies the vacuum to the petcock, so it doesn't have a rubber boot. Give it a try with some long pliers and some patience and you'll get it without having to take your bike all apart!
http://www.thestraycat.net/CBR_Farkles.htm
No need to take anything apart. But a set of long nose vise grips is handy!
Redcoat, & Maxwell's Silver Hammer, MVN and curmudgeon
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 5
From: Mud hut, Zululand
RE: Carb Sync questions
Gee, Scott, how crazy is that !
It's almost as though our little Japanese engineers don't want us to fiddle with them.
I learn something new every day........[X(]
It's almost as though our little Japanese engineers don't want us to fiddle with them.
I learn something new every day........[X(]
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 562
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RE: Carb Sync questions
From my view...
StrayCat's write up is best for post 1993
Bluebeard's write up is best for pre 1993.
FYI - Tomorrow I will do carb sync on CBR1000FL - 1990 using
[ol][*]4 Vaccum Guages by Motodetail Synchrontester, and then[*]Latest Morgan Carbtune PRo (similar to Straycat's).[/ol]
I will do a comparative write up of the difference (if any ) of the two methods with results and photos for those interested.
StrayCat's write up is best for post 1993
Bluebeard's write up is best for pre 1993.
FYI - Tomorrow I will do carb sync on CBR1000FL - 1990 using
[ol][*]4 Vaccum Guages by Motodetail Synchrontester, and then[*]Latest Morgan Carbtune PRo (similar to Straycat's).[/ol]
I will do a comparative write up of the difference (if any ) of the two methods with results and photos for those interested.