I have put together a home made synch tool which has no mercury, and you can rev as high as you want without worry. I will post pics later and a complete description as done on an '88 model

 

I found this on an ultralite site. I just wanted to know what you thought of this. Interesting point about the sensitivity. $1.55 carb. sync. tool

 

One initial dificulty I see with that is since we have 4cyl that is balanced of one carb, you will have to stop and start your bike a lot to move between the carbs.

 

Thats true, little more work but it's not a hard job. Simple and works for sure.

 

And the minor fact that you really need to have all four ports hooked up at once, since the adjustment on one effects all. For instance if number 4 is pulling more vacuum, numbers 1 and 2 will drop. Having done carb and throttle body synchs on lot's of differernt bikes, I can't see how a gauge that doesn't register all four ports at once will work.
Morgan Carb tune IMHO is the best you can get. Yes it's a little more expensive, but it will last for years, and there is no mercury to hassle with. It makes syncing carbs or throttle bodies a pleasure instead of a hassle.

 

But if you like to hassle try this.

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It is for 2 carbs, at least I think that is what I read. I have not used it. I thought you tuned;
1. Carbs 1&2 ( bank 1 )
2. Carbs 3&4 ( bank 2 )
3 Then Banks 1 & 2

If that is the case this should work, in theory.

I will keep Morgans in mind, but want to try this ( being a cheap Bastard)

Maybe I will build 2

 

Man Fly70 I would like more info on that monstrosity.... that looks right up my alley. [sm=patriot.gif]

 

Kudo's to Capt'n "O", really nice write up. Last week I ordered my Carbtune II. In anticipation of its arrival, I took the carburetors apart and cleaned them. I'm not sure if they've ever been cleaned, but they haven't been done since I owned it at 14K miles. It's got 31K miles now so I figured what the heck. I replaced all the "O" rings and gaskets. I did the first one in it's entirety to get familiar with the task. Then, using individual parts containers I did the other 3 as an assembly line process. I was really surprised at how well the K&W Technician Grade Carburetor and Choke Cleaner did on removing the deposits. For grins, I did try different solvents, but to no avail. It really is worth purchasing a couple of cans of this spray, or something like it. The total time to completion was about 6 hr’s. That's from parking the bike, to getting it started again after reassembly and ready to ride.

The Carbtune tool arrived this week so I was ready. As I started looking at the task I reviewed Captain "O"s instructions as well as reviewing the shop manual and common service guide. The Captains made it much clearer as to where the ports were and the location of the adjustment screws. I should have reviewed it before doing the cleaning. With the carburetors off the bike, you have unfettered access to the vacuum ports. To make things easy, I decided to do a little plumbing and add some permanent vacuum tubes and port them up to the top of the carburetors between #2 and #2 carb. This way I only have to raise and prop the tank, make my connections to the extension hoses and make my adjustments. For the #1 port that goes to the fuel petcock, I installed a "T" connector inline, with the extra branch going up with the other new tubes. I'll be able to do future sync jobs in about 15 to 20 minutes. I'm happy to say my first time a synchronizing my carburetors went off withouta hitch. The #3 carb had the highest vacuum, #4 was next, and #1 and #2 were identical. I adjusted #4 to #3, and then balanced the 1-2 to the 3-4. All were essentially level when finished.

I can't for the life of me figure why the 4th port has a "Cap" screw installed rather than a tube and rubber cap (anyone feel free to step in and suggest reasons). I ordered a "Joint, Booster" as Honda calls it to put in place of the Cap screw.


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Nice write up and pictures, Did you have to adjust the float level? I heard that it's different on carbs 93 and later.