I know someone out there has replaced a cam chain at some point. Well i'm looking at doing mine here soon and I wanted to order a riveting tool/breaking toolbut I am unsure which one to get. Here are two of the ones I thought might be okay. Any help is appreciated!



[IMG]local://upfiles/23307/B9FDC292CE2F464CA3560FF1A6BAE7F0.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/23307/58044A8236B34D71B133C98202703352.jpg[/IMG]

 

I've used a ball-peen hammer, a flat headed punch and a chunk of flat steel for decades - never a problem.........still, if you want one, get the best - no point in buying cheap tools.......

 

I own and have used the Motion-Pro set for all chains, including several CBR-1000F cam chains. It is the one in the first picture.

Regardless of which you buy, when doing drive chains with BIG pins, always grind the head off the pin you will be pressing out. Not doing so is very hard on the tool's press pin and may wreck it. On cam chains, not required. Just press the old pin out with tool.

One thing I have done and mentioned in one of my original cam chain posts is not in the instructions that come with the tool.I grounda piece of .010" feeler gauge stock to fit between the pins, spacing the link plateson assembly, so as not to press the plates tight together as though they were being used in a permanently riveted, fixed assembly, never meant to move/hinge. The reason is to allow oil to flow between the plates to get in to the pin/pivot for lubrication. Clearance of about .002" per joint, 5 joints or so, is how I arrived at .010" shim. If closed tightly between the plates, oil willhave little to no chance ofpenetratingall of theway to the pin which IS the pivot and therefore the pivot bearing. Dry run may cause very pre-mature failure of that link and in very short running time. Slide the shim stock between any two plates on assembly, proceed with the staking tool, and when final riveted, remove the shim stock leaving the oil clearance.

Also, on the cam chain or especially on drive chain assembly, there is no need to overdue the peening effect that holds the pin. Any expansion will prevent the plate from falling off but trying to peen the pin too much will just beat up the peening tool head. Pull it up pretty hard but not as I've seen some do, killer tight, big wrench, sweat and groaning abounding, damaging the tool.

If you are to proceed with the job, check back in the old posts and read up. I know I made many detail filled posts and so have others. Using the sprocket as a guide/holder, setting the timing marks in proper orientation before to dis-assemble, etc. Hope that helps. Good luck

 

talking about cam chains who came up with this and does it work.

 

Thanks for the headsup Dad on the shim trick. I will be doing that one as it makes perfect sense. Can I ask you where you got your master links from for your chain? I ordered up a DID chain, but the bike shop I deal with doesnt have two clues on where to get them from.

 

I got mine at my local dealer. I believe he used a Tucker-Rocky catalog and I think the chain packaging was Motion-Pro, same as the tool. BUT, the chain's manufacturerlogo marks stamped into the side plates were the same as the original, someartistic variantof a letter "M" if I remember correctly. The chain came as one piece and the link was ordered separately for the chain series. You had to break the new chain and use the master link on assembly. That is all I recall. Done the same thing twice since.

 

DID camchains come with a masterlink in a small plastic bag, with the main chain - if yours doesn't, send it back !!

 

wow i didn't even know that aftermarket cam chains come with master links, other than KTM's I'm use to having an endless link chain and having to tear apart the motor to replace the chain. But the upper picture looks like an universal cam chain and drive chain combo. I think i've worked with the purple tool and it works pretty good if it is the same one i'm thinking of.

 

Another silly questions about Chains. What does the 530, 520,630 number mean on the drive chains? Is it the tensile strength of the chain? What would a cam chain number be?

 

Never mind , I figured it out. Sprocket tooth spacing size.......