well, i did my valve lash today, didn't do the greatest job due to lack of better tools, however, EVERY valve was no less that .001 tight, most were .002 tight, so I loosened them off to be on the slack side of the tolerance, .005 intake and .007 exhaust seeing as it seems like the like to tighten which is a BAD thing... didn't get to taking the carbs off, but I did have to resych them of course, and all in all the bike seems to have a little bit better power all around, and is a little smoother running too.. still doesn't feel quite as strong as it should though... maybe tomorrow I'll take it for a full out rip and then take a look at the compression, since I just found my guage

 

Check that the choke is functioning properly, when I drop my bike off to the garage, I said to them that the choke felt wrong,
They had a quick look and told me is was barely working and it wasn’t really off, no wonder the bike ran like crap.

 

My '90 uses a plastic connector from the choke cable to the carbs. It broke off years ago because it's pulled at a slight angle. I had to wire the barrel end of the choke cable to what's left of the plastic lever. By the way, mine needs full choke when cold no matter what the outside temperature.

 

cold my bike starts and runs fine, it does need the choke, but that does it's job well, maybe when it's colder out it might be problematic, but I'll deal with that when i get there... the bike does run a little better now, and the valves don't rattle when cold, even though I set them to the slack side of the spec... i don't need to burn any exhaust valves thank you :P.. I had a little CT70 that both valves tighened up so bad it just barely would run and was a real pain to start... one day with the air cleaner off i put my hand over the carb as a choke and I felt PRESSURE when i kicked it over... I knew right then that I had to look at the valves, sure enough , 0 clearance

 

Mine would start without choke or fuel turned on, it would fire straight away, no problems.
It's going to be interesting what the bike shop tells me where the choke was really at all the time. (I would turn the fuel on directly before or after start, at lest the carbs don’t evaporate the fuel)

 

I have looked at my choke mechanism, it appeaars to be releasing all the way... what I noticed befor i did the valves is that the bike was a total dog, no power at all until it warmed up at least a couple minutes... it had so little power I could openin it wide in first gear in the rain and not spin... that seems to be a bit better now... I'll be resetting the idle mix screws again soon i think

 

About a week ago, I started the bike just in front of the garage door, I couldn’t find something so the bike sat there idleing for about 10min+, after their was a spray of black graduals on the garage door of unburnt fuel, not black find powered which is a bad thing, but like black soft sugar. I figured is was cause of my carbies were unbalanced.

Maybe you should try something similar to really see what is coming out the back, don’t use the garage door but, as it’s a bugger to clean.

 

yeah, the bike is still a dog when it's cold, not as bad as before though.. I'm really going to have to take the carbs apart and see what's up with them... I'm sure the iginition is good since it doesn't misfire, I've done the valve lash now which has helped, carbs are next in line unless someone has a better idea

mark, it may not be because the carbs are unbalanced, it may just be that one idle is set too rich

 

Bike is in the shop as the moment, getting the cam chain replaced.
They said they will go over everything, so I expect that they will resolve my problem either way.

I am present suffering from withdrawal, until the bike is back

 

The mechanic said that the cam chain was half worn, so they are also replacing the Tensioner, does that sound about right?