Sorry I don't know how to inspect the cc either. I also don't know how to replace the camchain. The manuals I have don't show how this is done either. Anyone got any clues to this too? Do I need a chain breaker?

 

I bought a Motion Pro Jumbo chainbreaker last week. I used it to replace my chain last weekend. The tool works great. Breaks chain by pressing out the pins. It also presses on the side plate, and then rivets the masterlink with a dimple.http://www.twowheelforum.com/attachm...achmentid=4173

 

one method of checking chains that works for pretty much any chain is to drape it over a sprocket, and then pull up on the chain at midspan on the sprocket, if it lifts off the teeth, it's stretched, for the drive chain you'd be pulling it backwards ffrom the back side of the rear sprocket, not for tolerances, I have no idea, but a new chain will not lift off the sprocket at all, hope that helps you a little

 

i was told a long time ago, by a very good mechanic that " if you can see light between the chain and sprocket its worn out. i've always used this method.
cheer's dave

 

When I had my Chain and Tensioner replaced, The bike was quieter, but still had noise, I think that my alternator and starter chains are also noisy, but I don’t think I can do much about them without spend some big dollars.

 

if it aint broke dont fix it! i have read many stories about the cam chain and no matter what every one does the the noise comes back. all you can do is enjoy the bike or buy a new one

 

Mine's a 1990 at 122,000 and has had new tensioners every 43-45K. It's also had two chains and two sets of all replaceable guides. The front one requires pulling the head to replace so wasn't done.

Part of the reason I did the chains is they're only $45 and I do my own work. The stretch evident when laying flat (after being broken to remove) and compared to a new one was only about .010"/.015" over the whole length which I would estimate to be about 2-3 feet. I measured the tensioner plunger travel before to remove and then again on reassembly. With a new chain and new guide, it gained about 1/8" of travel, from approximately 5/8" to 1/2".

Buy the chain aftermarket with a master. The chains I got were actually the same as OEM based on the stamped logo on the sideplates.

BTW, the motor is needing rings now. Started to show a small amount of oil consumption first around 90K at the track, continuously running at redline. It still runs well but will now actually show signs of smoking at redline and is using enough oil that I will have to add after a hard twisty ride of 500 miles or so. Also some weirdness getting into third gear occasionally. I think that's in the selector but could be fork and/or dogs, maybe a little of all three. I've accumulated the parts to rebuild it but also located a 4,700 mile motor that's going in while I mess with the other. Additionally, it's been very well maintained but also ridden very hard, routinely running 100 mile stretches at a time in the power band to redline.

I found this bike 5 years ago with only 900 miles on it. Yes, less than 1,000. I'm committed to this thing for the long haul. I absolutely LOVE its all around ability.

Hope that history helps somebody.

 

Hey Dad: how do you determine when your chain is stretched and when you can just replace the tensioner and guides? If you're only finding .010 to .015 stretch over the length of the chain it doubtful that the 'pull it up from the sprocket' procedure would tell anything.

BTW, you're making me feel good. I bought my '91 last spring with 26,000 miles on it and was wondering what one could expect for lifespan. Hope mine goes as far as yours.

 

Yeah, I've had nothing but fun with this bike and outside of chain tensioners, no problems that ever left me stranded or were anything that couldn't be charged off to normal wear and tear or "**** happens".

On the tensioner, when I first encountered the issue, I searched high and low including British web sites and couldn't find anything more than "it can happen anytime after 25K", and two schools of thought on the chains. One said you HAVE to do it and the other said you DON'T have to do it, each with the same big dose of conviction.

And I agree that the little chain wear evident will not show clearly with the "pull up on the sprocket" method. I don't think the wear could ever get so bad that that method would be conclusive as I think the tensioner won't take up that kind of wear without prior indication. I think it will surface as a tensioner problem long before the chain is grossly bad. JMO, never tried to prove it.

Armed with that extensive detail, I tore into it as I described above. I did the chain because I wasn't sure and it wasn't costing me any more than the price of the chain, about $45 aftermarket. What I learned doing it is that I don't think the chain needed to be replaced, certainly not on overall wear, but was concerned that maybe it could have a stretched section that would tighten and loosen while running, causing the chain tensioner to be worked over pretty good, causing premature failure. Well, I'm suspicious that's not really the case and while the theory makes some sense, I think it's just a theory that reality won't support. Don't know for sure and didn't try to determine any more. What I did get was an 1/8" gain of travel on the plunger from the old chain AND guide. I suspect the guide was the biggest if not total source of the gain. Again, didn't try to prove that any further.

The chain's not hard to replace at all. A good chain tool with all of the various size pins and press plates is all that's needed. It's complete for drive chains too so not a bad tool to have. About $100 from Motion Pro.

What they don't describe in the instruction is proper assembly pressing. It's possible to overpress the chain plates to where there is no clearance and it's actually a tight spot. I knew it was a concern but there's not even a mention of it in the instructions. The concern isn't just the tightness but lack of clearance for lubrication to find its way to the pins, starving them for oil and causing just that link to wear badly, likely in the earliest miles of use. Lubrication likes about .002" to easily flow and a feeler gauge between the plates on the new chain showed about .010" total play for the five plate width. Not a coincidence I guess. The step I added was to take a piece of .010" feeler stock and trim it to fit between the pins and used it to maintain that clearance between the plates on re-assembly. Pressed and staked it tight with the shim stock in place then removed it, leaving the same clearance as the rest of the factory assembled plates.

Also, on staking, it takes only a reasonable amount of pressure on the tool to deform the projecting pin the slightest amount to assure it stays together. That thing would possibly stay without even staking it as it presses pretty snug but the slightest deformation of the head assures it.

All other info to assure the cams are re-installed properly is in the service manual. I find it most comforting to turn the motor to the timing marks to stage the cams in their re-assembly position before to dismantle. It's extra comfort and assurance of not dinging a valve trying to sort it out while trying to assemble. Everything's already in place.

Got a little carried away there but hope it helps.

 

yep! mine is exactlly the same,changed the chain and tensioner just before christmas and it,s still noisey not as bad as it was though so i must be on the right track.
dave.