Sorry I didn't mention I did screw out the secondary master cylinder screw before I started, a work colleague of mine has a vaccum bleeder device, it's starting to sound like I may need to borrow it to overcome my problems, after reading through your previous experiences.......

 

It will definitely help.
If you go this route, I'd recommend putting some teflon tape on the threads of the bleeders like bicklebok mentioned. What can happen is that you'll vac air through the threads and it will seem like you're getting it, but in reality more air can be getting in.

 

I never could get it to work good with just the vaccum until i put teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. I think the vauum was pulling air back through the threads when I loosened them.

Do you have a good pedal on the rear brake pedal?

 

I have a reasonable lever & pedal, but both these can be improved upon by pumping them, which is a sure sign of air in the system.

My main concern at the moment is the ammount of air I am managing to bleed out everytime I bleed all the cylinders, I wonder could it be that air is entering the system through the piston seals, however, I didn't experience the condition before I removed the calipers...

I am considering locking off each individual cylinder with some flexible pipe clamps and bleading each cylinder in turn slowly and carefully, I'm also considering removing the calipers one at a time for a close visual inspection...

Black

 

I would be very surprised if your getting air past the piston seals , I think you'd be more likely to leak fluid past them first as the fluid is under pressure when the leaver is pulled . I'm still inclined to think it's getting in when you slacken off the bleed nipple.

BTW what's teflon tape , is it the stuff plumbers use on threaded joints?
I've got loads of that stuff , I'll give it a go next time.

 

I fought my brakes about 2 months and came up with every possible theory to do with linked brakes bleeding problems. At the time, there were several members on the forum with linked brakes and they were telling me to use the vacuum. Finally I broke down and bought one. I think it cost about $30. You will need it to synch your carbs if you ever plan on doing that yourself, so its a worthwhile investment.

 

There is no mention of opening the orifice bolt.

 

Sorry I did fail to mention that I had undone the capscrew on the front auxiliary master cylinder before I began the procedure, I 'll have another attempt to purge the system of air, this coming weekend when I can again work in the luxury of daylight, (here in the cold, dark industrial north)

Black

 

I have been told after bleeding the brakes to take it out for spin and see how the brakes are and then bleed them again.
If you think they are good, then leave them. The saying says " if its not broke don't fix it'.