Originally Posted by Nelson

Hi - I've recently done my '99 F-X model. Used the traditional method (ie I didn't used a vacuum pump or one-way valve etc). Instead I just attached clear tubing to the bleed valves and opened/closed them as appropriate. Make sure the other end of the tubing is secured in a glass jar and submergered under some brake fluid. The correct procedure is below. It requires a helper and a prearranged method of communication between the both of you in order to get lever/pedal pumping and valve opening at the correct times:

Undo secondary master cylinder orifice bolt (counter-clockwise) until it seats against circlip.

Remove both reservoir caps.

Use a syringe to remove as much old brake fluid from the reservoirs as possible without exposing the small hole at the bottom to the air.

Fill reservoirs with fresh fluid. I loosely fit the covers back on in case of brake fluid spurts out, although this has never happened.

Right front caliper, upper valve - using front lever (keep front reservoir topped up)

Left front caliper, upper valve - using front lever (keep front reservoir topped up)

Right front caliper, lower valve - using foot pedal (keep rear reservoir topped up)

Left front caliper, lower valve - using foot pedal (keep rear reservoir topped up)

Rear caliper, rear valve - using foot pedal (keep rear reservoir topped up)

Rear caliper, front valve - using ring spanner on secondary master cylinder linkage bolt (keep front reservoir topped up, although it will go down slowly as not much fluid is expelled at the valve with each 'pump' - infact, none came out on the initial pump)

Tighten valves to correct torque (5 Nm)

Top up reservoirs and fit diaphragms, covers etc

Tighten secondary master cylinder orifice bolt (5.4 Nm)

I like to flush around 1.5 - 2 reservoirs of fluid through for each valve to make sure the pipes have been cleared of old stuff.

I periodically tie back the front lever tight with a zip tie over night to bleed any bubbles remaining from the system to give a firm feel to the lever. Haven't yet worked out a way to hold the foot pedal down over night in order to do the same that circuit.

Sorry if I've told you stuff you already know. My rear brake pedal and front lever for that matter do not have the firmest of feels (say compared to my CBR954RR), but they are not spongy. If your rear pedal is working correctly, it should stop the front wheel from turning. Just put he bike on the centre stand, get a mate to sit on the pillion seat and lean back until the front wheel is off the ground and try the pedal. Might be worth checking that all the banjo bolts at each caliper are correctly tightened to 35 Nm before you start. One other thing with the rear pedal is that it can feel a little like an on/off switch in slow moving traffic. This is simply due to it activating the front caliper and causing some fork dive (this always catches me out when I switch to riding the 1000F from the 954RR.

Hope this helps, if I've missed anything, hopefully somebody with point it out!

Good luck

Originally Posted by Phoenix86

I have followed the above steps including opening the orifice bolt and had no issues with the other valves but clearly I'm missing something? When I crack the rear brake front valve open no fluid comes out, with either pumping the front or rear brake levers.

Originally Posted by Phoenix86

which linkage bolt is referred to above on the secondary master cylinder? Also, what action is being done when this linkage bolt is opened?