Bleedin' brakes and clutch
#1
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Republic of Boon Island
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Bleedin' brakes and clutch
So question,
I have to flush fluid on my 1990 clutch and brake lines
it's beginning to look like dark ale..... which I suppose could be worse
Anyhow
I've seen the mity-vac product and other pressure type products that
pump (pressurize) fluid up and out in the opposite direction out through
the master.
mity-vac seems easy enough
Anyone used the other pressure driven reverse method ?
It's supposed to zero out the possibility of air bubbles !
I have to flush fluid on my 1990 clutch and brake lines
it's beginning to look like dark ale..... which I suppose could be worse
Anyhow
I've seen the mity-vac product and other pressure type products that
pump (pressurize) fluid up and out in the opposite direction out through
the master.
mity-vac seems easy enough
Anyone used the other pressure driven reverse method ?
It's supposed to zero out the possibility of air bubbles !
Last edited by Sprock; 11-21-2010 at 09:52 AM.
#2
#3
Yes, that sounds vey messy, brake fluid and paint is never a good combo.
Old school method : top up the resiviours with methylated spirits (nice bright purple colour and absorbs water) pump the levers until the meths comes through, then add new brake fluid and pump again until you get new brake fluid coming through. Labourious but thorough and if you've been careful you can drink the meths when you've finished (Joke, don't do that, it'll make you go blind, like that other thing)
Old school method : top up the resiviours with methylated spirits (nice bright purple colour and absorbs water) pump the levers until the meths comes through, then add new brake fluid and pump again until you get new brake fluid coming through. Labourious but thorough and if you've been careful you can drink the meths when you've finished (Joke, don't do that, it'll make you go blind, like that other thing)
#4
I have used a mighty vac and it works just fine.
Heres what I did when changing my fluid. I took a rag and wiped out the resovoirs real good. At first I didnt do this, and even though I changed the fluid, it still looked dark after the change due to the sediment build up.
I set a rag under the handlebars to catch any drips. As mentioned, removing the plastics would be safer. Then I kept topping it off and bleeding until new fluid squirts out the bleeder. I used the mighty vac as the final step. And actually I would have never used it, except i kept having problems bleeding the linked brake system for the rear.
And last, I used water to wash off any trace of brake fluid anywhere.
Heres what I did when changing my fluid. I took a rag and wiped out the resovoirs real good. At first I didnt do this, and even though I changed the fluid, it still looked dark after the change due to the sediment build up.
I set a rag under the handlebars to catch any drips. As mentioned, removing the plastics would be safer. Then I kept topping it off and bleeding until new fluid squirts out the bleeder. I used the mighty vac as the final step. And actually I would have never used it, except i kept having problems bleeding the linked brake system for the rear.
And last, I used water to wash off any trace of brake fluid anywhere.
#5
Join Date: Aug 2008
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great tips thanks , think I'll just get the mity-vac and clean the chit out of the reservoir
might even pull off the slave cylinder open it up, clean it out and put a seal kit on it.
For that matter while I'm at it maybe a seal kit for up top too.
Does the stock clutch line get soft ( as in expand slightly) .....anyone know ??
Should I change it too ??
Basically I'm thinking this whole deal needs a complete overhaul !
might even pull off the slave cylinder open it up, clean it out and put a seal kit on it.
For that matter while I'm at it maybe a seal kit for up top too.
Does the stock clutch line get soft ( as in expand slightly) .....anyone know ??
Should I change it too ??
Basically I'm thinking this whole deal needs a complete overhaul !
#6
I dont know the answer to your question about the clutch line. For some reason, when I changed all my brake fluid, I started having problems with the rear brakes. I ended up having to put a master cylinder kit in the rear and in the little cylinder mounted on the forks for the linked brakes. Even with a manual, it was very difficult to troubleshoot those linked brakes. But, glad to get it all done and have piece of mind!
#7
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Good enough Ronnie, this deal only pertains to my 1990 for now ....no linked brakes
and the brakes on it seem just fine , nice clear fluid .....no sponginess....the rear
caliper gets a bit sticky if left for a bit .... but don't care ....never use it much anyway.
The clutch on the other hand has gotten so bad it won't release until the lever is
almost right against the bar .....thinking I'll give it the once and for all routine
from top to bottom and everything in between.
and the brakes on it seem just fine , nice clear fluid .....no sponginess....the rear
caliper gets a bit sticky if left for a bit .... but don't care ....never use it much anyway.
The clutch on the other hand has gotten so bad it won't release until the lever is
almost right against the bar .....thinking I'll give it the once and for all routine
from top to bottom and everything in between.
#8
Mity-vac is the way to go Sprock. Sounds like a cylinder problem if you aren't getting the travel out of the handle stroke. The hoses on the clutch don't have enough pressure/load to swell the hose IMO. The brake hoses are sure to do it if spongy. I could not believe the improvement when switching to SS braided lines on my '79 750.
#9
Sprock, if you're going the complete overhaul and making a mess everywhere (horrible stuff!) you might as well stick some braided lines on. I've put them on three of my bikes and have been well happy witht he results each time. Not much $ for a good gain in feel.
#10