Can you get more power by removing the balancer or will the engine fly a part??????????

 

Don't know, but please feel welcome to try and report back.

 

I think you'll quickly & very quickly find at that - your main crank bearings and
even potentially the crank itself will have a very short lifespan with no counteracting
balancing forces to damp vibrations

 

I suppose if, and only if, you have done everything to draw as much power out of the engine as normally possible, plus reduced unsprung weight and rotating mass, plus given up beer, could a person even begin to start to consider parasitic losses by engine driven accessories

Say for instance you're drag racing and need to squeeze out every available horsepower and then some. Do you need water cooling? Do you need the alternator (run a total loss system)? Ultimately, do you need the balancer? Reliability is usually not a key factor in search of lower ET's.

On the road it is.

Safety too for that matter. I'm not so sure I'd like to the guy behind you if things go south and you lunch a con rod or something to that effect

 

Understanding that, HP = TORQUE x RPM ÷ 5252, a small change in how quick the engine comes to full RPM by removing a small rotating mass may be seen, however that same spinning mass may be associated with helping to produce some torque at lower RPM's.

I see little gain if any but vibration problems may occur. Smooth engines produce the best power usually.

 

I can see other ways of producing power. Better breathing, Porting and polishing, Balancing the rotating assembly. Maybe decking the head for higher compression. All of the usual tricks

 

Well it is said in theory to free up to 15hp and you'd need to pull the crank and have
it professionally lightened and balanced on a high end crank balancing machine
- typically only done for short run tear down racing motors.

 

Better breathing, Porting and polishing, skimming the head for higher compression. All of the usual tricks

Speaking from experience - All of the above work on the 1000F start with the obvious - air cleaner get a good airflow job or pots, then spend some money on porting and polishing and skimming the head for higher compression. Do thes ein one go to save hassle and time. Once done check your jetting and carbs.

The other option is changing the stock exhausts for better units.

The question is not how fast do you want to go! Its how much (£) faster do you want to go????

Mine has non stock air filter, custom exhausts, port & polish, skimmed heads, but looks stock from the outside (except exhausts). Is still comfortable for cruising but will hit ridiculous speeds for a 19 yr old bike.

My advice, play with externals and heads first.

Rick

 

Balancing and blueprinting (without the tuner tricks) does mean a complete teardown or a donor motor to start with, but delivers you a motor completely to spec, assuring reliability and giving you the most sound basis for modification. How far you go with it will reduce that reliability for sure. How much you want to spend is also a factor.

I can take a lot of vitamins thinking it's doing me good, but without knowing what my body really needs, all I really end up with is a lot of expensive urine.

Same with building a motor. Jeg's will sell you all of the high-zoot parts to build that small block Ford motor but without a crank balancing, a flow bench check and the like, you're really pissing away a lot of money and not seeing the true potential of your investment.

My responses are really to the theoretical question of removing the counter balancer to gain power. Engine building for performance has been around for over a century now and the basic axioms have still held true to this day

 

I just use the bike at the track and all its power is top end 7000 to 10500 witch is good at a track like Queensland raceway, that is long and open but not at Lakeside raceway that is tight and up and down.