I bought my 88 Hurricane last fall and worked on it a lot this winter. Put in the new cam chain tensioner, drive chain and sprockets, clean oil, etc.

BUT, I finally started it this past weekend, and the loud noise is still THERE! ARGH!!

So, I am checking the balancer tonight, but realistically it's too loud to be something simple. I'm guessing it's the alternator chain. It's just too loud. Above maybe 2500-3K rpms, it does get better, but I'm afraid to ride it because of the noise being SO loud. This isn't a quiet rattle - it's a chain-against-the-side-of-the-engine marbles-in-the-motor loud.

But it runs very well overall - just noisy. You can hear it when the starter is turning over too, that something just doesn't seem to be meshing right. In fact, I've wondered if the starter isn't returning all the way back, causing the issue, but that doesn't explain the higher rpm's making it quieter.

Any help before I tear the engine all the way down for an alternator chain is really appreciated. This sucks, it's spring!

 

The starter's constant mesh as far as I know, only other issue it could be (without listening to the bike) would be something to do with the clutch - does it get quieter with the clutch engaged ?
Also, how many links were in the cam chain ? Maybe it was too long - should have 150 pins.Did you fit the camchain tensioner arm and camchain tensioner cover correctly ? Take a screwdriver and place the metal tip against the engine, your ear at the other end, and try to locate where in the engine the noise is coming from, and work from there. Bad luck, mate......hope it's something simple.[X(]

 

Did you fill the tensioner with motor oil when you installed it? It uses engine oil to function. If you didn't prime it when you put it in it could take a while for enough oil to drip into it from the head to start tensioning properly.

If it's not that then I would guess it's the alternator chain. The tensioner on this is really bad too and I had found them to be broken in both of the motors I have had. It is just a spring and a shaft with fine teeth on it. The little tooth that is supposed to ratchet and catch in order to take up slack as the chain stretches tends to shatter, leaving the spring (which is really weak) to try and take the tension. It will slap really bad at idle but should go away with rpm's above 1500. I have driven both motors for many miles with the alternator tensioner broken, only one ever actually broke the chain and basically I had to bump start the bike to get it home... and I had to disconnect the headlight so it wouldn't drain the battery.

 

OK, so I listened last night and I can hear the sound is low in the engine, on the front/bottom area. So I assume this is the alternator chain indeed. I had primed the cam chain, it didn't get quiet running for a while last night unless I revved it over 2500 rpm or so.

So the question is - how do I attend to this? Is there a tensioner I can fix without tearing down the engine? What's involved? I have the Honda 87-88 service manual (print version), but I don't see anything in it about a tensioner for that chain. Actually, I hardly see anything about that chain at all! Anyone who can prevent me from having to tear down the entire engine to replace this thing - I'm willing to send $$. I'm too close to riding season to lose this thing. Thanks to all for their feedback so far.

 

Ah my condolences, sounds like the ACG chain, I had the same issue on an '87 I had. Basically a complete tear down, split the case kinda job. Honda estimated around $900 in parts and about $2K in labor. Told me the chain may go in a week, or never. Worse case scenario was ventilating the engine case / oil down if it was a catastrophic failure. I would up selling the bike, giving complete disclosure to the buyer.

 

Done mine twice. It seems to be a weak point of the bike. The parts are not over the top in price. Here in Australia about $400 in parts (tensioner, chain, gaskets, oil & filter). I also replaced the oil pump chain the first time too which is quite cheap. Don't be put off by having to tear down the motor. If you have never removed & split the cases before, allow two days. If you have then you are in front & should be able to do it in the better part of a day or just over. The manual doesn't say a lot about it but it is in there. I tend to follow the Haynes manual as it's easier to understand & find your way around. Follow the instructions to the letter. There are also a number of previous posts on the subject too. At the end of the day it's a big job but not a hard one.

 

Bluebeard, well that's good to know. My '88 is a bit noisy when warming up, but after that she's quiet., pretty sure it's the tensioner. Was never afraid to tackle an engine job, but didnt want to be without the bike...not a problem now since I have the cruiser...thanks.

 

I believe my bike is having the same problem. Right now this is my only means of transportation I was wondering what damage this might do to the bike, and how do you fellas/ladies feel about "ignoring" the problem til the end of the season. like the rest of you are saying rattle/knocking is only in low rpms... thanks

 

To be honest ignoring it is not wise. When the tensioner breaks there is usually small pieces in the bottom of the motor. At best they will be picked up by the oil pickup gauze or caught in the oil filter. However the pieces are often large enough to cause major damage to the bottom end & gearbox. Last thing you want is more preventable expense or sudden seizure whilst you are riding. The first time mine broke I was at work & had to get home. Upon pull down I think I was lucky no pieces fouled the gearbox.
Safest bet, save a fewdollars & buy the parts. Once you have the parts it's only two days & you're back on the road. Good luck.