Hi all. Hope someone can help. Have a 1986 1000f. About 18 months ago I smashed the alternator chain tensioner. I replaced the tensioner, the chain & while it was all apart the oil pump chain too. Everything else appeared to be in good condition. Well it's gone again. This time the teeth on the pawl are completely stripped & the pin through the pawl is bent. I am amazed at the amount of ware in the chain too. I have always used Shell VSX oil however recently went to motul. Is this a common complaint on these bikes or do I have an underlying problem.

 

Not to go off topic, but they made an 86 Hurricane?

 

There were no CBR 1000F sold as -86, but this doesn´t mean that it wasn´t manufactured in -86. The CBR 1000F was introduced as model year -87, and most manufacturers introduce new models in the autumn, ~4 months before the actual year.

About your problem, I haven´t heard of anyone with that problem here before, so i can´t help you, sorry.

 

How did you break the alternator tensioner the 1st time. This may give some indication as to why it has happened again.

So, with it replaced the 1st time you have had the crank cases apart. As a sugestion, check your alternator damper and shaft to see if anything is out of line. When you replaced the tensioner, did you release the pressure with a pin. Thinking about what it could be I would be inclined to check the alternator.

Let us know what you find out, and good luck

 

Broke it the same way both times. Just started the bike from cold & it rattled like hell. Yes I did release the tension. Thinking about the problem since I put up the post, after the last repair I had a whiney bearing only in fifth & sixth gear. Sounds strange but could be the alternator shaft etc. The only problem was I couldn't get it off. I'll have another go at that. May be the answer. Thanks

 

Could it be a faulty alternator dampener jamming?

 

Although the manual does'nt show it, if you take the C clip away from the bearing, then place the inner casing on some wood, then tap the end of the shaft with a plastic hammer until the shaft comes clear. Now, before you do that, have a look at the driven gear. This is made of soft steel and can bend, and if it did'nt line up with the starter gear, then it would have chewed the cogs, so it may be the cause of your problems. Before you replace the tensioner, check the operational points of it.

When you do get sorted, the alternator should go into place with little or no tension, and you must make sure the it aligns with the starter cog before it goes fully home. Can you post pics of damaged parts?

 

Sorry been on night shift & not near the computer or the bike. Will hopefully have a crack at the alternator in a few days. In the mean time here is a photo of the bits. Iv'e dismantled the tensioner so that I could see what was going on. You hopefully will note the teeth on the plunger are perfect but the pawl is stripped & the pin is bent. probably won't help diagnose thr cause but worth a look. More likely a bent alternator shaft or something at that end of the chain. Thanks for the help too .

[IMG]local://upfiles/18179/6A7C8663F53E4850A6BCC93413FD7985.jpg[/IMG]

 

I hope this next suggestion helps more as I dont think I explained it very well the first time. The shaft should be ok, but the on thing that you do need to look at is the starter clutch gear. Now, this cog may be bent and this can be caused when putting the alternator back in, and if you dont line it up with the teeth of the starter reduction gear the you create undue pressure on the starter clutch gear.

With the alternator out, spin the shaft by hand and see if the cog runs true. Now also check the damper (did you line up the pin holes in the shaft to the holes in the damper?) for the needle bearings need a good supply of oil.

When you are ready for reassembly, and the alternator is in with the tensioner on, (get someone to help you) turn the cankshaft to check for straight line movement of the alternator chain. Whilst doing this you can also check to see how much pressure is on the chain. (it should only be taught, and not tight. The ruduction gear should also turn freely on the starter clutch gear.

Hope this helps and will try and post some pics, (when I can suss out how) to show you what I am looking at.

All the best

 

Actually I was never able to get the alternator out not for want of trying.So I'm now wondering how I replaced the chain as it was one complete loop & not broken . I'm hopefully going to have a look in a few minutes. As for needle bearings, I used shell vsx oil after the last repair & thr first time I checked the valve clearance was surprised at the massive wear on the cam lobes. I promptly switched to motul. What an amazing difference. This time I have noticed the bearing caps on the end of the gearbox shafts are all loose. Oh well only a few more dollars . Thanks heaps for the ideas.