'96 Carb sync
I went to do a carb sync on my new to me 1996 1000f and for the life of me can not find any ports to hook up my gauges too, or any adjuster screws. The shop manual I have is for a '93 to '94 and the Haynes manual isn't any more of a help. Where are the vacuum ports and the adjuster screws on the '96?
This is nuts, I've looked everywhere, except for pulling the air box off and looking under the carbs.
Sign me Frustrated in Seattle...... [
]
This is nuts, I've looked everywhere, except for pulling the air box off and looking under the carbs.
Sign me Frustrated in Seattle...... [
]
There are three screws and four ports. I have a 93, and I think its very similar. The sync screws are painted blue and have a small spring sandwiched between two plates.
These ports are on the engine itself , not the carbs.#1 port is the line leading to the fuel valve. I take the line off and attach a mityvac to open the valve and attach the gauge hose to the engine nipple directly. #4 is a 3 or 4mm allen plug. U remove it and install a brass niple in the hole, then attach the gauge hse to that nipple. #2 & 3 carbs have nipples, but u hav to remove the caps. I f I find those damn pics, Ill send them or post. Good luck! The sync screws are a real pain in the *** due to the fact if you try to turn them, u have to apply some press and that screws up the setting. I replaced those with 3 mm fine thread allens(custom die order) and rethreaded and cut new bolts to fit the carbs. Now it works very well, and I didn't have many porbs with adjusting at all. Hope this helps, and the pics when I find them, ill send
ORIGINAL: chitownart
These ports are on the engine itself , not the carbs.#1 port is the line leading to the fuel valve. I take the line off and attach a mityvac to open the valve and attach the gauge hose to the engine nipple directly. #4 is a 3 or 4mm allen plug. U remove it and install a brass niple in the hole, then attach the gauge hse to that nipple. #2 & 3 carbs have nipples, but u hav to remove the caps. I f I find those damn pics, Ill send them or post. Good luck! The sync screws are a real pain in the *** due to the fact if you try to turn them, u have to apply some press and that screws up the setting. I replaced those with 3 mm fine thread allens(custom die order) and rethreaded and cut new bolts to fit the carbs. Now it works very well, and I didn't have many porbs with adjusting at all. Hope this helps, and the pics when I find them, ill send
These ports are on the engine itself , not the carbs.#1 port is the line leading to the fuel valve. I take the line off and attach a mityvac to open the valve and attach the gauge hose to the engine nipple directly. #4 is a 3 or 4mm allen plug. U remove it and install a brass niple in the hole, then attach the gauge hse to that nipple. #2 & 3 carbs have nipples, but u hav to remove the caps. I f I find those damn pics, Ill send them or post. Good luck! The sync screws are a real pain in the *** due to the fact if you try to turn them, u have to apply some press and that screws up the setting. I replaced those with 3 mm fine thread allens(custom die order) and rethreaded and cut new bolts to fit the carbs. Now it works very well, and I didn't have many porbs with adjusting at all. Hope this helps, and the pics when I find them, ill send
I sent a picture of the carb. Yes its a pain, thats why I replaced them with allen screws and use a ball driver. Thevacuum ports #2 and 3 are covered with a black rubber cap. Be careful when you pull them off. They rip easy. #1 you should be able to see very easy.They are located on the engine itself.
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I was reading the rest of your post. I did it the first time with the phillpis screw, but it wasn't easy. The vacuum ports are under the carbs but on the engine block itself. You don't have to remove the airbox to get to them. Again not the best design by a long shot, but barely doable. If you have the engine open, and have a camera, take some shots and either email them to me or post them. I should be able to point them out to you.
Side note.. where in Seattle> I love that city, lived just south in Tacoma for a few months in 2000. Wish I was there.
Let me know how it goes.
Side note.. where in Seattle> I love that city, lived just south in Tacoma for a few months in 2000. Wish I was there.
Let me know how it goes.
I live in Renton, which is south east of Seattle at the south end of Lake Washington. It used to be nice and rural around me (horses and cows and farms) but now it's all getting turned into condos and houses. It's getting far to crowded for my liking.
Back to the carbs. Here are four pictures:
The first shows where the blue sync screw is located. The red arrow points to it. Number one is all good, I can see the screw and the port. It's the only screw I can see. I can't see number 2 or 4 screws at all. Three is fixed, so there shouldn't be a screw for that one.
The next shows the limited access around the air box and below the carbs. I can't even see the ports, let alone get a hand to them.
The third shot shows from the right side. And the last shot is the vacuum port on nuber one. The red arrow is pointing at it. Assuming all the other ports are in the same place on each intake, then I do not see a way to access them without removing the air box. But hey, if you know a way, I'm all ears 8-)
I posted this here rather then e-mail you, because it might be nice for archive purposes, if somebody else needs this info in the future.
Thanks
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Back to the carbs. Here are four pictures:
The first shows where the blue sync screw is located. The red arrow points to it. Number one is all good, I can see the screw and the port. It's the only screw I can see. I can't see number 2 or 4 screws at all. Three is fixed, so there shouldn't be a screw for that one.
The next shows the limited access around the air box and below the carbs. I can't even see the ports, let alone get a hand to them.
The third shot shows from the right side. And the last shot is the vacuum port on nuber one. The red arrow is pointing at it. Assuming all the other ports are in the same place on each intake, then I do not see a way to access them without removing the air box. But hey, if you know a way, I'm all ears 8-)
I posted this here rather then e-mail you, because it might be nice for archive purposes, if somebody else needs this info in the future.
Thanks
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Capt. O, dang, that looks fun!!!!!!!! Can't wait to do my 94, soon.
In 83, I lived a block away from Tony go's pizza and resaurant, in north highlands, renton. Maple valley, Kent. I don't even recognize it anymore...Small world !!!!! I live in soap lake, E. wa., a mile away from the dry falls /sunlakes coulee, carve'n it ,every day!!!!!!!! are you familiar???? Clean and free, ripp'n
In 83, I lived a block away from Tony go's pizza and resaurant, in north highlands, renton. Maple valley, Kent. I don't even recognize it anymore...Small world !!!!! I live in soap lake, E. wa., a mile away from the dry falls /sunlakes coulee, carve'n it ,every day!!!!!!!! are you familiar???? Clean and free, ripp'n
Capt, as I recall, I did have to remove the side fairings, but did not have to remove the airbox. As I recall, the airbox is a real bitch and it really doesnt give you much clearance. If I get a chancce, tomorrow I ll get some pics of exactly where they are. I do recall using long long nose pliers and hemo stats ...aka.. roach clips.... to get the hoses for the gages on the ports. Let me know
Art
Art
I'll try and pull the fairing off this weekend and have a peak. I'm too tired tonight, and I'll be busy the next two nights.
I want to mount an fuse box for my farkles, so maybe I'll do that at the same time when I take the fairings off. Thanks Art.
I want to mount an fuse box for my farkles, so maybe I'll do that at the same time when I take the fairings off. Thanks Art.


