'94 cbr 1000
#1
'94 cbr 1000
I am still new here but have been looking for a CBR600. I replied to an advert for a CBR 1000 and the guy just called. I won't bore you with the details but it is "supposed to be ok" but high mileage. 70k.
Question for you 1000 people... what sort of maintenance does the bike require?
Just as a backgrounder- I am an old fart and currently been riding BMW for a while. 70k on the BMW R models would basically be getting broken in good. No reason to expect any major issues as long as maintenance has been done. In this case I think not much has been done... is this a case of run away quick or a toss up, or a no problem?
Do you guys do your own valve adjustments? Do you do the other work or is it basically take to the shop sort of thing?
As you can tell- I am the new kid here- just trying to get a feel for things.
Thanks.
Question for you 1000 people... what sort of maintenance does the bike require?
Just as a backgrounder- I am an old fart and currently been riding BMW for a while. 70k on the BMW R models would basically be getting broken in good. No reason to expect any major issues as long as maintenance has been done. In this case I think not much has been done... is this a case of run away quick or a toss up, or a no problem?
Do you guys do your own valve adjustments? Do you do the other work or is it basically take to the shop sort of thing?
As you can tell- I am the new kid here- just trying to get a feel for things.
Thanks.
#2
Howdy, hopz, and welcome!
The CBR1000F is like any bike, I guess... it will need maintenance.
I check and adjust my own valves. It's not hard.
Mine is even the "California" model, so I had all this emissions crap to deal with before I could even get to the valve cover.
Valve adjustments are not hard at all on these bikes, though, if you have any mechanical abilities at all.
I have done all my own maintenance on this bike without issue. (yet.. )
I think the biggest maintenance problem on these bikes has been the cam chain/tensioner. The later models 1993+ (maybe '92, also) have an updated version of the tensioner, though, and have had less problems.
I have a 1995, and it has yet to be an issue. The camchain generally rattles a bit on start-up, but the noise should go away after warm-up. If it doesn't, it's due for a new tensioner and probably a cam chain.
Otherwise, these are pretty dam solid bikes. Not many issues. I love mine.
I guess it all depends on how well it runs, whether it needs much TLC, and how much it costs.
Hope this helps..
The CBR1000F is like any bike, I guess... it will need maintenance.
I check and adjust my own valves. It's not hard.
Mine is even the "California" model, so I had all this emissions crap to deal with before I could even get to the valve cover.
Valve adjustments are not hard at all on these bikes, though, if you have any mechanical abilities at all.
I have done all my own maintenance on this bike without issue. (yet.. )
I think the biggest maintenance problem on these bikes has been the cam chain/tensioner. The later models 1993+ (maybe '92, also) have an updated version of the tensioner, though, and have had less problems.
I have a 1995, and it has yet to be an issue. The camchain generally rattles a bit on start-up, but the noise should go away after warm-up. If it doesn't, it's due for a new tensioner and probably a cam chain.
Otherwise, these are pretty dam solid bikes. Not many issues. I love mine.
I guess it all depends on how well it runs, whether it needs much TLC, and how much it costs.
Hope this helps..
#3
Thanks... good info.
On valve adjustment, a few follow up questions,
What does the book call for regarding valve adjustment schedule. (The BMW R motors want one every 6k miles.) I'm gonna guess the Honda does not need it that often.
When you do a vale adjustment- are we talking about adjusters at each valve or are we talking about shims and cups?
On valve adjustment, a few follow up questions,
What does the book call for regarding valve adjustment schedule. (The BMW R motors want one every 6k miles.) I'm gonna guess the Honda does not need it that often.
When you do a vale adjustment- are we talking about adjusters at each valve or are we talking about shims and cups?
#5
Yep, what malbojah said.
They are really easy to adjust, in my opinion.
All it takes is a special 10mm tool, and a long allen wrench (hex key).
Not much trouble at all.
I didn't go the "special tool" route, but rather ground flats on a 10mm deepwell socket. That way, you can hold the socket with a pair of vise grips, while being able to access the hex adjuster with an allen key.
Works great...very easy.
They are really easy to adjust, in my opinion.
All it takes is a special 10mm tool, and a long allen wrench (hex key).
Not much trouble at all.
I didn't go the "special tool" route, but rather ground flats on a 10mm deepwell socket. That way, you can hold the socket with a pair of vise grips, while being able to access the hex adjuster with an allen key.
Works great...very easy.
#6
Thanks... good info.
On valve adjustment, a few follow up questions,
What does the book call for regarding valve adjustment schedule. (The BMW R motors want one every 6k miles.) I'm gonna guess the Honda does not need it that often.
When you do a vale adjustment- are we talking about adjusters at each valve or are we talking about shims and cups?
On valve adjustment, a few follow up questions,
What does the book call for regarding valve adjustment schedule. (The BMW R motors want one every 6k miles.) I'm gonna guess the Honda does not need it that often.
When you do a vale adjustment- are we talking about adjusters at each valve or are we talking about shims and cups?
I haven't done mine in 40000 miles !!!
Still fires up first time, goes like a train.......
Adjustment is on each valve. Look in the history - plenty there
Oh and you'll feel the difference between a Hurricane and the Beemer when you hit 5500 RPM on the Hurricane.............
The world becomes a different place....
Last edited by Shadow; 06-04-2009 at 12:44 AM.
#8
#9
Cbr1000f & r1150rt
FWIW - I have both '90 CBR 1000F & '04 R1150RT. I love them both for different reasons that I think are obvious so i will not get into comparison of the two but here's my .02 on the maintenance.
My CBR has 30k miles (bought used in '94 with 5 ki miles) and I just recently gave her what I am calling a "20 yr freshen up" which included checking the valves and synching the carbs, fresh fluids, etc eventhough she was running very well. I also wanted to add ss brake lines and noticed it needed fork seals. While I had the front end off I put tapered bearings in the steering head (there was a small flat spot). It was my first time doing the valves and I did the research on this forum which made it very simple. All valves were within spec. after 30k miles. (Its a Honda.) Getting to the valve cover was simple since i had the gas tank off. I like to remove parts rather than work around them.
On the other hand you have the beemer which requires valve adj every 6k and from what I read you almost have to do it otherwise they dont run as smoothly. My RT has 16k miles and I had the shop do the 12k valve adjust since I did not have the time. I will do it myself for the 18k service. (I bought it used with 10k miles.)The beemers are much more maintence dependent IMO. (valves and throttle body synch.)
FYI - my cbr does not have issues with the chain tensioner...yet. However, I have replaced two sets of front wheel bearings, and the regulator rectifier has also been replaced twice. These seem to be the weakest parts of the CBR.
However, the CBRs make great sport tourers that you can't beat for the money. I have slightly taller windshield (zerogravity) and handle bars Heli). I'm adding an MVA Vario windshield extension next week. Also added ss brake lines as mentioned above. Have not tested them yet.
I would be happy to answer any other Qs - pdamurjian@optimum.net.
My CBR has 30k miles (bought used in '94 with 5 ki miles) and I just recently gave her what I am calling a "20 yr freshen up" which included checking the valves and synching the carbs, fresh fluids, etc eventhough she was running very well. I also wanted to add ss brake lines and noticed it needed fork seals. While I had the front end off I put tapered bearings in the steering head (there was a small flat spot). It was my first time doing the valves and I did the research on this forum which made it very simple. All valves were within spec. after 30k miles. (Its a Honda.) Getting to the valve cover was simple since i had the gas tank off. I like to remove parts rather than work around them.
On the other hand you have the beemer which requires valve adj every 6k and from what I read you almost have to do it otherwise they dont run as smoothly. My RT has 16k miles and I had the shop do the 12k valve adjust since I did not have the time. I will do it myself for the 18k service. (I bought it used with 10k miles.)The beemers are much more maintence dependent IMO. (valves and throttle body synch.)
FYI - my cbr does not have issues with the chain tensioner...yet. However, I have replaced two sets of front wheel bearings, and the regulator rectifier has also been replaced twice. These seem to be the weakest parts of the CBR.
However, the CBRs make great sport tourers that you can't beat for the money. I have slightly taller windshield (zerogravity) and handle bars Heli). I'm adding an MVA Vario windshield extension next week. Also added ss brake lines as mentioned above. Have not tested them yet.
I would be happy to answer any other Qs - pdamurjian@optimum.net.
#10